Material Removal - Saws

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Sep 4, 2018
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I'm sure this has been discussed before but I have missed it in my searching, and the beginner's threads didn't quite give me what I'm looking for.

What tools do you use for material removal - Bandsaw? Metal Bandsaw? Jigsaw? Reciprocating Saw? Grinder?

I would like something I could use for other purposes besides stock removal as well (handle materials etc.), but wood bandsaws are to fast/weak for the job and I don't have space for two bandsaws. I've had some luck with a recip. for bulk material removal but fine detail work is not it's strongest suit.

I guess overall I'm looking for a happy medium between ability/space/budget/overall usefulness. I'm no pro, no plans to become one, I just need to balance my needs.

Cheers
 
I have two bandsaw, one vertical for wood and a large horizontal for steel. I use the plasma cutter to cut blanks out of sheets and and 2x72 to clean up the profile. The. Surface grinder to grind the flats. Do have an abrasive saw but that’s used to whack Damascus billets down to size when I down have time to soften it enough to chop in the steel bandsaw.
 
I have had three of the Harbor Freight vertical/horizontal saws.
They are relatively inexpensive, even better with a 25% off coupon, but they worked decently well for multiple uses.
The longest one saw lasted me was 3 years, but in that 3 years it sawed a lot of blades and handle material.
I like that style saw and currently have a similar saw but by a different manufacturer.
 
I have a Harbor Freight vert./horiz. bandsaw that has been going strong for 15+ years.
 
A HF vert/horiz. band saw will do both. Get a wood blade in the size it takes from someplace like Cyberwoodworking ( Toolcenter.com). When cutting metal, use a bi-metal blade from Lenox or other source. When doing wood, move the belt to the highest speed. When doing metal, move to the lowest.
A 14/18 TPI Die-Master 2 metal blade from the above will run $26 and a Flex-back 4TPI wood blade will cost $13.

This setup won't be the same as a 12" Rykon or other wood bandsaw, but will work fine for the small wood cutting needed to make knives.
 
I'll be the 4th to suggest the HF saw. I got it from a blacksmithing friend who used it for an unknown number of years, and I've been using it for about 8 years.
Stacy already gave the useful info about the different blades needed.
 
You can also take the arm off the base and set it up as a vertical only saw.

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Adjustable speed, deep cut, Portaband saw with Swag table. Small foot print, a good one is still relatively inexpensive and will cut everything. I use it for handle materials (elk, wood, bone, synthetics), steel, bolster materials, pin material, everything I need to cut in the knife shop. Lots of odd jobs around the house too. Changing the blade takes less than a minute on my Dewalt and blades are available locally. Change the blade, (TPI) and speed and zip through ironwood. Change blade and speed and cut out the knife blank too. Works.
 
If my portaband broke today I would immediately hop in the car to go get another. It is that important to my work, dont know how I got by without it.
 
I definitely like a protaband, but the lack of throat depth and cut width won't work for larger sheets stock. I had one in the shop for small cuts up to last week when I gave it to Steve.

I have plans to build a cabinet and convert my 7X12" vert/horiz into a coolant flow permanent vertical eventually.
 
Thanks for the input everyone, this is great!

Generally speaking, what (approximately) what speeds are you looking at for cutting various materials? I've seen variable speed metal band saws at 80/120/180 ft/min, portable ones that are 200 & 250, or more; where does too much speed become a factor? And is it heat produced by the cutting that causes issues or a reduction in performance?
 
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I just use my 4 X 6 with 24 TPI blades for everything.
I don't make a lot of knives- most of my work is repair/restoration, but I cut a lot of steel and other materials.
It's slow cutting thick pieces of wood, but I can live with it.
 
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