Material suggestions

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SS369

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Nov 29, 2015
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Good day All.

I am working on a blade design that is of .125" thickness and will be very pointy. The cutting edge will be an approx. .375" wide, flat ground, double bevel. Widest part of the blade starts at 1", tapering along 3.25" to a zero tip.

I welcome suggestions for a material that has the best qualities for this shape and to what hardness I should have it heat treated and then tempered to. It will be in the realm for EDC uses and so there is no telling how it will be abused.

I'd like the blade to be tough, have decent edge retention and take a keen edge.

My prototypes are currently out of some Starrett O1 precision ground steel.

Cost is a consideration, of course.

Thank you in advance.

Scott
 
Used as an every day carry, for whatever. Just not a prybar.
I know the tip area will be the challenging part, possibly easy to damage and that is why I am asking for recommendations.

Thank you BTW.

 
3-v , S35vn, at both at 60rc you will see the point flex before it brakes, but those are just the steels i'm familiar with. sounds like a big scalpel, A-2 would probably work.
 
Thank you MeatRobot, I will look into the cost of those suggestions.
My intention is to make a small number of the knife to gift and trade.
Are any of the suggested metals difficult or expensive to have heat treated?
Would they be best to post heat treat grind given the design?

Scott
 
The blade tip as-drawn will not survive.
You should make the shape different. See the diagrams attached. (you may have to open it to see it clearly). One shows just the blade shape, the other has a basic matching handle, and the last shows them together. These are very rough shapes, and will need refinement in making the knife.
 

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Thank you Stacy, I respect your input very much.

I have seen pictures of "kiridashi" style knife blades (both sides beveled), long and slender, that I imagine might hold up to most usage. Some steak knives, filet blades bend fairly well and survive, even though they are much more slender than the .125" thickness that I want to use.
What is their secret and could that be applied to my project?

As a last resort I might have to clip the point, as I do understand the fragility of it, but I really would like to make the best attempt to craft the original design.

I appreciate the input.

And to all the readers: Happy Holidays ! And may your toys be plentiful.

Scott
 
Kiridashi are specialized use blades. They are designed to sharpen pencils, and cut string and paper. Woodworking kiridashi are larger and thicker, and are used to scribe lines on wood or do inletting and trim mortises. They are not really suitable for EDC use.

Flex is a factor if thickness - Thin blade flex, thick ones don't.

I make a set of 3 kitchen slicers with a vet long and pointed blade. I had to cut all the tips back at a short angle to keep them from snapping in use.

You can do the same with your blade if you don't want the tanto-ish tip. I added a sketch.
 

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Thank you Stacy, I'll keep your suggestions in mind.

So, what are some of your, or anyone's suggestions for materials to use?

I own a few small knives, fixed and folders, some of them seem fragile, but, they exhibit point and edge strength (toughness).
My EDC carry is a Spartan Enyo and it handles most of my own uses on a regular basis. It's pretty pointy, slight belly with a clipped and swedge design. A little thicker than what I'd like to make with, not too much though. It is s35vn steel that I assume is rather tough although it is relatively expensive.

As I wrote before, the design is a double bevel where the primary grind is not a full height grind, for the most part (3/8" wide from cutting edge) and no swedge.

I'm excited to move forward with this and look forward to additional member's input.

Thanks.

Scott
 
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