Maxamet, M390 or S110v, any real use in everyday or camp chores?

[Karl H]

Look at Larrin's articles on Knife Steel Nerds for corrosion testing and Cru-Wear. You can search the website.

 

[Dergyll]

CRUWEAR is not stainless, but it's not as bad as M4 or Maxamet. I have a few knives in CRUWEAR and in my case they act similarly to D2 in terms of stain resistance.

It has great edge retention and superb toughness. The Manix 2 comes with it coated black, do that helps it resist corrosion.

 

[bikerector]

Thanks for the very detail info. Seems I need to find a Cruwear or SPY27 version. I see a lot of pictures in this forum are knives with CRUWEAR, seems it's really popular.
But reading from other posts, is the CRUWEAR a stainless steel? I am going to bring it often in moist atmosphere...a little concern on the rusting

It is not stainless, it is a tool steel so it will rust if you leave it wet for a while. It will not rust nearly as easily as something like 1095 or other simple carbon steel. I do not have the exact level of corrosion resistance (check knifesteelnerds as another recommended) but I want to say that it's on par with CPM 3V, so if you wipe it dry after using it you won't have a problem and if you wipe it with mineral oil or a CLP paste it will be good for a fair amount of wet weather. Honestly, I've struggled to put a patina on cruwear and similar steels in terms of corrosion resistance (3V, Sleipner, Vanadis 4E, etc) even using them to cut acidic foods.

From what I've read, even if these do form a little rust it doesn't tend to pit so it would clean right up with something like 3-in-1.

 

[Dextar]

CRUWEAR is not stainless, but it's not as bad as M4 or Maxamet. I have a few knives in CRUWEAR and in my case they act similarly to D2 in terms of stain resistance.

It has great edge retention and superb toughness. The Manix 2 comes with it coated black, do that helps it resist corrosion.

Thanks for the real-use comment

 

[Dextar]

It is not stainless, it is a tool steel so it will rust if you leave it wet for a while. It will not rust nearly as easily as something like 1095 or other simple carbon steel. I do not have the exact level of corrosion resistance (check knifesteelnerds as another recommended) but I want to say that it's on par with CPM 3V, so if you wipe it dry after using it you won't have a problem and if you wipe it with mineral oil or a CLP paste it will be good for a fair amount of wet weather. Honestly, I've struggled to put a patina on cruwear and similar steels in terms of corrosion resistance (3V, Sleipner, Vanadis 4E, etc) even using them to cut acidic foods.

From what I've read, even if these do form a little rust it doesn't tend to pit so it would clean right up with something like 3-in-1.

Thanks again for the very helpful and detail info!

 

[Smiling]

IDK but if I was going to camp, I'd go for a full tang fixed blade in some carbon steel...

And for basic EDC - SAK is probably going to be more than enough...

If it really has to be a folder - triad lock is the way to go IMO.

 

[David45]

I find the M390 one available in a online dealer in Canada, have no idea if there is a rule allowing post the name or address?
Here is the screen cut:

Found it at the Canadian dealer but at $215 US I think I’ll wait until more are available in US at retail, thanks

 

[rexromic]

M390 all day!

 

[Von007]

For what a M390 or Maxamet Manix 2 is going to likely cost you ($200 +) you could buy 2 Manix 2 lightweights in BD1 for $100-$105 a piece, carry one in your pocket and stow the other one in a safe place in your pack that way you have a backup blade. A S110V is cheaper at $150-$160 for the lightweight. I have a S110V Manix 2 lightweight and a S110V Para 3 in my daily carry rotation and I can tell you for my regular daily use they hold an edge well cutting open plastic bags and cutting cardboard but S110 is chippy. While I don’t have any experience with the Maxamet I would think it would be even worse because its even harder than S110. The other thing about having the 2 Manix 2s would be that 2 knives in BD1 should out cut 1 M390, 1 S110 or 1 Maxamet blade. Plus if something happened and you did chip an edge or worse case scenario brake a blade or loose one knife you have the backup knife tucked away safe and sound. I’d choose the M390 out of your 3 choices if you just want to go with one Manix but like some of the rest of the guys have said S35VN would be the best choice for rust resistance paired with toughness which you can’t get in a Manix but you can get S35VN in a PM2 for $150-$160. The problem I have with the PM2s are the dainty tip. All kinds of food for thought.

 

[DMG]

Fwiw, I suggest a small, light folder like a Manix LW, Bugout, SAK or similar and an Esee, Carothers, etc fixed blade with a 4-5 inch fixed blade. Keep the folder on you for light stuff and the fixed blade in your pack for heavier stuff.

 

[Dextar]

IDK but if I was going to camp, I'd go for a full tang fixed blade in some carbon steel...

And for basic EDC - SAK is probably going to be more than enough...

If it really has to be a folder - triad lock is the way to go IMO.

Sure thing, fixed blade is the one I always go with. But just want to have one more folding with me for some lightweight tasks, plus, it feels really cool when open/close the folding knife

 

[Dextar]

For what a M390 or Maxamet Manix 2 is going to likely cost you ($200 +) you could buy 2 Manix 2 lightweights in BD1 for $100-$105 a piece, carry one in your pocket and stow the other one in a safe place in your pack that way you have a backup blade. A S110V is cheaper at $150-$160 for the lightweight. I have a S110V Manix 2 lightweight and a S110V Para 3 in my daily carry rotation and I can tell you for my regular daily use they hold an edge well cutting open plastic bags and cutting cardboard but S110 is chippy. While I don’t have any experience with the Maxamet I would think it would be even worse because its even harder than S110. The other thing about having the 2 Manix 2s would be that 2 knives in BD1 should out cut 1 M390, 1 S110 or 1 Maxamet blade. Plus if something happened and you did chip an edge or worse case scenario brake a blade or loose one knife you have the backup knife tucked away safe and sound. I’d choose the M390 out of your 3 choices if you just want to go with one Manix but like some of the rest of the guys have said S35VN would be the best choice for rust resistance paired with toughness which you can’t get in a Manix but you can get S35VN in a PM2 for $150-$160. The problem I have with the PM2s are the dainty tip. All kinds of food for thought.

Sounds very reasonable. In fact, the Manix 2 is one of the backup blade I am choosing for.
When I go for hiking, always bring with a fix blade as primary usage, just want to have a backup one when I have some lightweight tasks near camp or do something with food.
So, it sounds a Manix 2 lightweights a good option too.

 

[Dextar]

Fwiw, I suggest a small, light folder like a Manix LW, Bugout, SAK or similar and an Esee, Carothers, etc fixed blade with a 4-5 inch fixed blade. Keep the folder on you for light stuff and the fixed blade in your pack for heavier stuff.

Moving my mind to LW now , didn't noticed them before

 

[CanadaKnifeGuy]

I'd take a BK-14 for hiking and camp chores over a thin, brittle folder, anyway.

TKC makes larger aftermarket scales for it or go Bk-16 if you need more handle or even just a Mora Companion

Folders are like toys, once you learn to rely on a quality, stout, fixed blade.

 

[Therom]

IMO Neither Maxamet not s110v will be good for hiking
I have a para3 in Maxamet that is a great small edc but I will not use it for other tasks

M390 is a great all around steel and if you need something to be polyvalent it is always a great choice

if you really do a lot of hiking you may wants a tool with more toughness than edge retention.
M4 or Cruwear are great options

I have a GB2 in M4 that is very impressive. I use it as my “work around the house” knife and it does very well
I am waiting for the release of the Cruwear PM2 to try this steel as it is very popular too

at the end I think that you should not overthink the steel
A basic S30v from Spyderco works perfectly for edc and hiking. You can use the dollars you will save into a sharpening system (always think at your knife as your knife plus your sharpening system )

Spyderco is moving to s45vn which will also be a good pick if the price does not rocket

 

[MolokaiRider]

IMO, cruwear would be great for the manix 2 as the size and generous handle make it a great tough use folder.

I really like S110V but you have to know that it lacks toughness and can really be a butt to sharpen. It is great on slicing knives and the manix is a great slicer but just know that it's not going to be the best for longevity if you want to make it a hard use folder, such as camping.

The standard S30V is a great performer even if it feels outdated. For real world use, I don't see M390 as much of an upgrade.

For your uses, I wouldn't pick maxamet or S110V because they lack toughness which is something you will want for camping and hiking. I would go with the "lowly" BD1 if you can't get the cruwear but the cruwear would be ideal, IMO.

Edit, I see some of the new SPY27 is available at bladeHQ so it's probably available elsewhere. That should be a pretty good choice as I think it's roughly a US-version, and probably improved, VG10. I haven't looked into it much though, to be honest, so take that lightly until looking into it more.

I echo the sentiment about CTS-BD1. It is extremely resistant to corrosion and is pretty tough. I like my LW Manix in this steel so much I just ordered another.

 

[Gary Hastings]

Hi there, seems I've decided to have Manix 2 as my next knife. Will be mainly used for hiking / camp chores.

I see three blade types: M390, S110v and Maxamet. After learning from the forum and interenet, seems a lot talk about the rust, retention, toughness.

May I ask from your real everyday or hiking use experience, any actual differences between the 3 blades?

If I bring the Maxamet one in often humid atmosphere when I go for hiking, is it really easy to be rusted?

Thank you!

I just broke PM2 Maxmet yesterday.I did a rookie mistake and used it to pry something and the tip broke. I just ordered a PM2 in 110v. I got it for $215 and no tax. I love those small knife shops.I loved my Military in 90v,so I figured I would like the 110v,also.

 

[ferider]

I have lots of knives in M390 and they are perfectly capable for camping, in the camp kitchen in particular.

Spyderco runs M390 pretty hard compared to other makers, makes it prone to chipping. So I'd much prefer - say a Manix 2 - with Cruwear. Maintenance requirements are minimal. I've chipped Spyderco M390 (PM) and broken a Maxamet blade (Manix2). Strangely enough, Spyderco S110V seems to hold up fine, but I use S90V more .... love that steel.