Metal bandsaw,tracking problem

Joined
Feb 14, 2000
Messages
1,204
I just bought a metal band saw from Harbor
freight,I got it all together and set it up
to cut some profiles to save on belts I have it going on the slowest seed so that is not a problem.The blade it came with is 14 tooth
i think it is made from carbon,I start to cut
and it catches on the metal and pops the blade of the tracking wheels.I went by the directions about adjust etc.I am still having a probles I am only cutting 1/8 1095
I have not even cut the handle shape out and I put the blade on six times <the blade is in the bearings like they should be everything is set up like it should be.could it be the cheap blade it came with. Please
I need some help.
Thanks Nathan
 
This was passed on to me by Bill Herndon. You can also read about it in his latest Super Shop article in Blade.

You want three teeth of blade in the steel at all times. So if you are cutting 0.125", you want a blade with 24 teeth per inch. Make sure the blade is bi-metal with a good rake. Also make sure its the right width for what curves you are cutting.

But I think the main problem is your blade is just too course.

R.W.Clark
 
I have the same problem with mine. The blade gets caught where it is welded.the teeth are ground a little narrower at the weld so it binds if you put any pressure. try going really slow, don't hardly push the steel at all. or buy better blades the cheap ones will all do that. I have learned to time mine so that I can push real hard then let up on the pressure just before it gets to the seam.

------------------
Bleeding, it's a hobby of mine.
 
Hey, Nathan,

Did you get their vertical/horizontal economy special? If so, I've had a bit of trouble finding blades for it... it's kind of a weird size, I think--64.25" or something similar.

Went to Home Depot trying to get a wood-cutting blade, and finally found one, but check it out...the teeth are on the wrong side! If I put in on properly, the teeth are pointing the wrong way, and if I put it so the teeth are actually point the right way, I'd have to feed the danged thing from the back!

DOH!

So, if you can find anyplace where these fabled blades roam in abundance and variety, let us all know, would'ja?!? Otherwise, my only suggestion is to take the blade tension up as high as you can by hand, and take it slow, slow, slow!!!


------------------
Kalindras,
Washroom Attendant to the Nazgul
and
Holder of the Iron Key to the Men's Room of Mordor...

Madness lives in steel at www.geocities.com/Kalindras/index.html !!
 
Same thing here, I bought a good bi-metal blade and it runs smooth now. I think the company that makes that slaps on the cheapest blade they get, mine wasn't even welded straight.
 
I just got one of these. I had also bought a Lennox bimetal from K&G. The original blade lasted about 5 minutes. Since putting on the Lennox blade it works great.

------------------
A lefty trying to find his way in a righthanded world.
my art
 
Nathan, you might want to do a search on this topic. Search using Blackstone as the key word. Kalindais, you can turn your backwards blade inside out just by twisting it around on itself; kind of like turing your shirt inside out.

I have the same bandsaw and my blades stopped popping off when I wnet to 18 and 24 tooth blades to match the thickness of whatever I'm cutting.
 
This is a link to a bandsaw FAQ that I found in the archives. http://www.halcyon.com/meretrix/4x6bsFAQ.html I have the same bandsaw and the same problem. After doing all the recommended adjustments, cranking the tension as tight as I could by hand seems to help a lot. I am still using the original blade. From the other posts here, it sounds like a better (bi-metal) blade might help a lot too. I may order a new blade for mine soon.

Dan
 
Andrew--

Tried it, but I'll try it again...when I was trying to flip it before, it kept springing on my, and trying to cut my hands up...like a damned concertina wire slinky!

hopefully it'll work out this time...I'll get some gloves.
 
Thanks Guys
I know what you mean about ripping your hands,the blade that came on it were it is but welded had about 4 teeth messing
that is were my problem is.
I am getting a BiMetal one,I think that will solve the headach,they cost more but in the long run they are worth it
thanks everyone I am not the only one having this trouble I thought is was me.I am a newbe
so I guess I learned somthing
Nathan
 
Once you've got your blade sorted out, the next things to keep an eye on are:
- check the blade is tracking over the top wheel OK
- adjust the position of the top roller bracket and bottom roller brackets so they are as close to each other as you can go for you work requirements...this helps the torqueing of the blade as it leave the top wheel plus reduces stress on the blade
- MOST IMPORTANTLY: adjust the guide rollers (top and bottom) so they are just skimming the blade as it travels.
Do this with your new blade (a local saw doctor makes me 24 tpi bimetals for $15 heh heh) and you'll be laughing
biggrin.gif
 
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