Metal Bandsaw?

I don't know where you live, since you haven't filled out your profile, but I'd check to see if there's a Harbor Freight near you. I profile my blades with a vert./horiz. bandsaw similar to the one you listed that I purchased from HF.

The price seems kind of high to me. Harbor Freight has them at a lot lower cost. They're usually around $200 at HF. I was able to get mine for $159 at HF, during a sale and with some sweet talking. The blades that come with the HF saw are junk and you'll have to spring for good bimetal blades from McMaster Carr or Fastenal, or the like. I'm still able to cut brass with the one that came with the saw though.
 
Thanks scottickes. That price sounds a whole lot better. I'll check the HF catalog. I can put that extra savings towards more sanding belts. Now if I only new what to order. The advice I've gotten is to order in bulk, but not to sure what a good starting order would be.
 
You should also check around for used saws. I got an older Emerson cast iron bandsaw for $120 cdn (around $95 US I think) from a coworker. The only thing I had to do (and would highly recommend) was to take a piece of 6x 8 x 1/4 mild steel plate and make a larger platen for the vertical position. The horizontal/vertical saws typically come with a small 2x2" platen that is useless imho because you cant clamp a guide to it for making square cuts (for cutting handle scales, etc.) very easily. Good luck, and good huntin.

Nathan Dallyn
 
I have a similar tool. A metal cutting bandsaw is great - especially for outlining.

There is a saw doctor business 5 mins from me and he made me a very good bi-metal blade, much better than the blade with the machine.
 
This isn't about a bandsaw but I went to Lowes and bought a Delta 12" drill press for $179, then all power tools were 15% off, then I had a $10 off coupon and finally I got a $25 rebate on it for a total of $128.17 Check there.
 
The problem is, Lowes doesn't carry metal working tools. They only carry woodworking tools.
 
Barkes, how hard is it to change speeds on the Wiltons? I really like the idea of one band saw, less space and less money than dedicated wood and metal saws of similar capacity. Any thing you don’t like about it?

Todd
 
Wholesale Tool's $1096 doesn't sound like wholesale (much less discount) to me, but I have to admit that is a very attractive tool.

I was wrestling with this metal cutting bandsaw problem a couple of weeks ago and asked around among my friends and neighbors and got a Milwaukee portable dropped in my lap for free. Nothing beats free. Nothing! I think I have to make my giftor something eventually to show my appreciation.

I tried it out and it works like a charm but I need to build a PROPER stand and platen for it. (one project at a time..........)

You might try shaking the friends and acqaintances tree. Maybe something will fall out.

Syn
 
jasperdog1 said:
Another newbie question. Do you use a metal saw to cut out your stock? I'm getting ready to get some equipment to make my own blades, and didn't know if that is what was normally used, or if you used something like a plasma cutter. This is the bandsaw I was looking at. Do I want a vertical or horizonal? This one says its both.

http://www.southern-tool.com/store/light_duty_horizontal_vertical_bandsaws.html

Thanks for the help!

Dave
Click to expand...

Vertical only machines are expensive, I think wilton has one for around a grand. Most of the horizontal machines are both horizontal vertical. All of the small ones like this are.

For cutting out blades you need vertical. This machine comes with a table for use in vertical. It attaches with a few screws in about a minute.

The dedicated vertical machines have a deeper throat and are more versetile for cutting curves. They are nearly useless for cutting long stock to length. Like if you bought some 8ft. long tubing and need to cut a couple of 3ft. pieces. The horiz/vert machines twist the blade at an angle to make this cut possible.

The other neat thing about the Horiz/vert is that in horizontal you let the saw do all the work. You camp the stock on the deck and the weight of the saw assembly feeds the saw through the material. It even truns the machine off when the cut is done. There is a tab on saw frame that hits the on off switch when the saw passes through the material. You don't need to sit and watch the cut.

The Jet saw looks identical to the harbor freight saw I just bought. All the numbers are the same. The HF saw cost me $159. I bought the 2 year extended warranty and it came to $194

If you buy the HF saw, Stop at the hardware store and buy 6, 5/16" X 1" bolts with washers and nuts. The bolts to mount the saw to the stand were missing from mine.

Of course about 10 minutes after you have the saw assembled you will be thinking about the best way to build a new stand to replace the somewhat flimzy sheet metal stand that want's to flip the whole 140 lb unit over if you let the saw flip up to the vertical position too fast.

The neat thing is you have the saw to cut all the steel and there is that old steel bed frame in the basement made out of 1.5" quarter angle.


You probably know a guy with a welder too!
 
Nabok said:
Barkes, how hard is it to change speeds on the Wiltons? I really like the idea of one band saw, less space and less money than dedicated wood and metal saws of similar capacity. Any thing you don’t like about it?

Todd
Click to expand...


There a knob on the back side all you have to do is turn it to the speed you need and go. That's all I love it.
 
synthesist said:
Wholesale Tool's $1096 doesn't sound like wholesale (much less discount) to me, but I have to admit that is a very attractive tool.



Syn
Click to expand...

You get what you pay for. It work great in my shop. I cut all my steel with it. And I like the DoAl blades and they are bi-metal. Get good saw blades and they will work a long time for you.
 
Regardless of what kind of saw you get, throw the blade that comes with it away and order a bi-metal Lenox Blade. You won't regret it. Should cost less than $30 for those HF and similar units.

The tips for cutting metal are:
Good blade (bi-metal)
Slow blade speed (slower for stainless than carbon)
NEVER try to cut hardened steel
Slow feed rate
Gentle pressure
Take your time
Avoid trying to cut tight curves (cut angles and grind curves)
When cutting multiple blades from bar stock, plan the cuts for efficiency and max metal yield (don't just cut off 10" for a 10" knife, you can often cut two 10" knives from a 15-16" bar of steel)

Here are a few mods to make the unit more usable for knife work.
When you set the Vert/horiz unit up for vertical secure it firmly in that position.
Add a wooden seat (pad it if you like) to the bed and sit down as you saw.
Make a new table for the unit from sheet steel about 12X12" and 1/4" thick. (Don't think about a plywood or MDF table, it won't hold up.)
Move the power switch to a better position for when you are sitting down (I put mine right below the saw unit, which puts it in front of me on the right hand side.)
Stacy
 
Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmm Barkes, you said, "You get what you pay for." We could debate that statement for a long time. Sometimes I get lucky and get a LOT more then I pay for. Many of the knives in my collection were bought at estate sales or in "antique" stores where the seller had no clue what they were offering or its real value. I have invested time and serious money in gaining the ability to discern value and, sometimes, I get lucky and buy far below market. Jewelers do it all the time.

It is easy to open a catalog and order something for "RETAIL" It takes work, instinct and luck to get what you need cheap and fast.

If I were a professional knifemaker and accounted for each minute of effort on a knife in an equation that ultimately measured my profit to the penny I would invest heavily in tools and technology to speed my work up. For now, as a hobbyist, I am spared that.

Syn
 
Look, the simple fact of it is this, you don't absolutely need an expensive bandsaw (if at all). The first 2 1/2 years I was making, my blades were all cut out with a hacksaw. I've actually talked to a couple people that use a sawzall or port-a-band to cut out their blades. If you are just getting into making, get a decent grinder and drill press before you even think about the secondary stuff like bandsaws, dust collectors, etc. If your budget allows for it, a small 4-6" horizontal/vertical saw is all you really need. A more expensive saw would be nicer to use, but for a beginner, you're much better off spending $2-300 on a basic saw instead of $1000+ for an industrial machine and then using the price difference to buy materials (belts, steel, pin and bolster material, handle material, etc.) because you can expect to waste a bit while you're on your way up the learning curve. Anyway, no offence meant to anyone, this is just one opinion.

Have a good one,
Nathan Dallyn
 
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