Metal bolster and pins

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Mar 5, 2007
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Trying to make a perfect fit in a knife with metal bolster.
A question: if the holes in the bolster are in example 2mm I've to use 2mm pins or slightly more (i.e. 2.05mm)? Then I have glue the holes and to peen inside.
Just to raise the most pleasant results.
Thanks mates!
 
I would rely on metal to metal with the pins well peened in countersunk holes. No glue. The glue takes up space. With properly flat mated surfaces, the pins will draw everything contact tight as you peen them.
 
I would rely on metal to metal with the pins well peened in countersunk holes. No glue. The glue takes up space. With properly flat mated surfaces, the pins will draw everything contact tight as you peen them.

I disagree,

no matter how good your mechanical fit moisture CAN wick into the space causing rust over time.

I would suggest super cleaning the mating surfaces, pin and peen the bolsters in place and then applying a drop or two of super thin super glue to seal the joint and keep out moisture
 
very interesting. Can the superglue leave a thin dark stroke on the surface when sanding?
 
The issue is to seal the joint between the bolsters and the blade. The pin holes will be sealed fully when peened.

Here is a simple procedure:
Drill the bolsters to a snug fit for the pins. Use a tapered reamer, or a countersink ( I like a reamer) and enlarge the holes a bit. Drill the tang for a loose fit on the pins....it must be loose or the peening may raise the bolsters off the tang. Spread a very thin layer of epoxy on the tang area, staying away from the pin holes. Carefully set the bolsters in place and insert the pins, leaving some sticking out on both sides. Clamp the bolsters , wipe off the squeeze out, and set aside to cure. File the pins, leaving about 1/2 the diameter sticking above the surface on both sides ( 1mm for 2mm pins). Slowly and gently peen one side, then the other, until the pins are mushroomed fully. Increase the force as the pins fill the holes tight. File the excess and sand. it should be nearly invisible if the pin and bolster are the same metal. Putting epoxy between the tang and the bolsters, to seal the joint from water invasion, is a good idea. Super thin CA will wick in,too, but the water resistance of CA is not as good as epoxy.

BTW, if you make the tang hole a tight fit, the expanding pin will make a tiny bulge on both sides of the tang ,and lift the bolster up a fraction of an inch. No amount of pounding will get it all the way down.

Stacy
 
I like the tapered reamer idea. I can see how that would really snug things up. I need to get one in 3/32 and 1/8 and maybe 5/32. What is a good source for these. Jim
 
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