Micart making tips?

[JG Custom Metal Works]

I've been making micarta using random fabrics and Bondo Fiberglass resin and it's been working real well. My only problem is that it sets up in 10mins and I'm not able to saturate enough layers for the slab to be as thick as I want it. The method i use is to have all the layers in a pile before hand and layer them one-by-one or two-by-two(depending on how thick they are)onto an even stack while slathering each top layer with the resin. Once I get enough, or the resin becomes to tacky I wrap the wax paper around it, staple the ends, put the top of the press on, and then set a 45lb weight on the top.

I'm satisfied with how it comes out but I've only been able to get them about .3in thick. I'd like to have them up to .5in thick. I have an idea and wanted to run it by you guys. Would it work to spread a bunch of the dry layers out in a aluminum pan(like the big ones people cook turkeys in), them pour the resin on top of the layers, spread it around saturating the material, and THEN stack them up in the press? Do you think it would be too big of a PITA to keep the wrinkles out of them?

How do you manage to saturate enough layers, in a quick amount of time, to make a thicker slab(all while keeping them wrinkle-free)?

I do the same process as Walter Sorrells does in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn4pUUa_Cms

 

[Salolan]

I've dabbled in the mycarta as well, also using the polyester resin. The best and simplest fix would be to switch to actual epoxy. I believe West Systems 105 resin and 206 hardener are the norm for recommended product. It is a better product and has a longer work time. The only downside would be the cost difference, but you get what you pay for.

If you are intent on using the polyester resin (Bondo Brand) know that heat is your enemy for work life. Try and schedule your project around the temperature. Pick the coolest day and maybe even do it in the cool of the evening. I have done it at night in the garage and had plenty of time to work the material. I am not saying try it in freezing conditions but if you have a choice between 85 F and 65 F, go with the 65. I have also seen it recommended to use a larger pan to contain the resin while working. This increases the surface area and allows it to dissipate some of the heat being created, thus slowing the reaction a little.

Good luck,
Chris

 

[i4Marc]

I too have dabbled. I think two things that might help are this. Have a friend help. Mix up two identical batches of resin with two stacks of fabric. You both work to mix and stack a single pile thus getting twice the work done in the same time span. The other idea is to create a stack twice the length of your intended pile. You stack the pile quickly then double it over onto itself at the end creating a pile twice as thick. The two ideas are not mutually exclusive.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Oooh two people would be sweet!

I do it in my garage where it's cold. I've done it in the heat too though without problems. Honestly, I don't really like doing thick mats because the stack can start to get weird. Going by your description, you must have a lot of squeeze out? I try to be as conservative as possible.

I use a plastic tray to hold the resin. The black plastic trays that ramen comes in are ideal. I run the first strip through the resin then run the strip between two fingers to strip off some of the resin. With dense fabric like denim you'll need to do every layer. With burlap (my favorite) you'll want to do every other layer. Bubbles are more of an issue with burlap though.

Are you using 10 drops of harder per ounce of resin? Might try 8.

Time management can definitely be an issue with polyester resin. I plan to try WS soon, but only after I find a combination of cloth and pigment that I REALLY like as it'll be pretty expensive to make.

Bottom line is that thinner is easier. If you can figure out a combination that you like, you can laminate the thinner piece to a liner, or g10 or micarta or whatever. Just be sure to get all of the wax off the surfaces left over from the wax paper by sanding top and bottom.

Edit- oh and always start with two pairs of gloves on. Strip the first pair off once you're done with the stack. You'll still need gloves on from there, but it really reduces stress to not have a bunch of messy resin all over your hands.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

Some awesome tips guys, thanks. Now I just need to get another respirator and convince my lady to help with the micarta. Easier said than done lol.

 

[buckaroo2219]

I agree with the try a little less hardener comment above.