How To Micarta handle for a blade blank?

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Plainsman

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I have a Rob Siminich blade blank (Kanji) from many years ago. I wrapped it in paracord and have used it that way for close to two decades.



I’d like to put a set of Micarta scales on it with bolts as 1. Im allergic to (liquid only) epoxy, 2. I think the scales should be removable for maintenance. Is there a good way for me to do this myself? (I have zero experience making/mounting scales)

I see blank micarta is available at Amazon, so would assume some place like knifekits.com, Jantz supply, etc. would as well as the bolts I would need.

Or should I seek out somebody that could do it at a reasonable cost?

Thanks for any/all assistance!
 
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To avoid epoxy, I"d say use nitrile gloves, but breathing the sanding dust is probably bad for you too.

Look at all the various CA glues. There are toughened gels and others that make it act like epoxy - not running away.
 
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Plainsman said:
thxt4pA.jpg
I have a Rob Siminich blade blank (Kanji) from many years ago. I wrapped it in paracord and have used it that way for close to two decades.



I’d like to put a set of Micarta scales on it with bolts as 1. Im allergic to (liquid only) epoxy, 2. I think the scales should be removable for maintenance. Is there a good way for me to do this myself? (I have zero experience making/mounting scales)

I see blank micarta is available at Amazon, so would assume some place like knifekits.com, Jantz supply, etc. would as well as the bolts I would need.

Or should I seek out somebody that could do it at a reasonable cost?

Thanks for any/all assistance!
Click to expand...

Jantz also has drill bits for this type of thing. Pick the fastener desired and then the bit. I believe many of the fasteners descriptions reference the rivet bit needed.

knifemaking.com

Rivet Drills

Knifemaking hobbyists will appreciate the high quality rivet drills on offer at Jantz Supply. Rivet drills are designed to drill and countersink rivet holes in one step.
knifemaking.com knifemaking.com
 
Check the vids on YouTube by searching for removable knife scales. The simplest way is using small threaded inserts and some kind of flathead or countersunk torx or allen key bolts.

You will need at least handtools to cut and shape your scales. All work could be done with a normal drill, hacksaw, files and sandpaper.

1. Flatten the inside of the scales on a 60 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Mark your scales (L/R, up/down, inside/outside). Fasten one of your uncut scale to the tang with clamps or couple of drops of CA glue.
2. Mark you tang shape on the scale and drill 3 holes through your fastened scale keeping the drill at 90 degrees. Use the existing holes in the tang as a guide.
3. Unmount the scale and clamp it to the other scale. Drill the holes using the existing holes as a guide.
4. Use temoprary pins to put scales over each other. Cut the scales to rough shape. Mark and cut shape the front of the scales.
5. Mount the scales with temporary pins on the knife. File and send away until the scales are flush with the tang.
6. Easy way to shape a scale would be to take the edges of the scale with file at ca 45 degrees angle and round the off with coarse grit sandpaper. Go up the grits with sandpaper (at least 400 — up to 2000).
7. Countersink the holes in the scales so that your screws will fit. Install the scales with threaded inserts and bolts.

You will need to figure out all the dimensions and drill and align eveything very carefully.
 
With corby bolts or loveless style, they are permanent. Corby bolts, you grind off the slot to tighten then when shaping the handle.

You a looking for a screw on handle that can be removed, which means drilled and tapped holes (incredibly difficult in hardened steel), or epoxying some sort of tapped spacer (like a threaded stand off for a pocket knife) into the holes on the handle and threading screws into that.
 
Since Plainsman used a Lansky to add a thick edge as seen in the photo, I would guess he has none of the equipment needed to do a take-down handle.

Plainsman - I suggest you post a request in The Exchange - Knifemaker Services Wanted, or contact a maker here that you know and/or respect and have them do it. At the same time, they could finish the bevels properly and make a better edge. With the holes in that tang, I would suggest using two Corby bolts and a lanyard tube, and not having a take-down handle.
 
After reading the replies and researching, I think I’m ready to tackle it. I’ll be ordering some micarta and purchasing bolts/nuts similar to what my Beckers have. Actually, purchasing and using a set of micarta handles on my Becker BK11 is what sent me on this route.
https://www.tomarskabars.com/BK-11HNDL_INFO.html

Thanks for all the info!
 
FrdyCro gave good advice. The only thing I would add is that if you are going to use a Becker-like set up, with screws that are probably smaller in diameter than the holes in the tang, you will want to insert spacers in the tang holes, to give a tight centered fit to the screws. Then put the spacer in place in the tang holes as guides for the drill bit >>before<< drilling the holes in the scales.
 
Plainsman said:
After reading the replies and researching, I think I’m ready to tackle it. I’ll be ordering some micarta and purchasing bolts/nuts similar to what my Beckers have. Actually, purchasing and using a set of micarta handles on my Becker BK11 is what sent me on this route.
https://www.tomarskabars.com/BK-11HNDL_INFO.html

Thanks for all the info!
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You can do it , it is not rocket science . All that matters is the order of the jobs you need to do .
First mark on the knife where you want the handle to start from the blade side , leave little more material on scale in front .Then drill hole for pins in one piece of Micarta and mark shape of tang on that scale .Align both piece of Micarta and drill holes in other scale, first drill one hole , insert pin and then drill second hole . Then use pins and joint both scale together and shape just front of scale.After that you can use vise to sand with file both scale /fixed together with pins / close to line you draw . Then insert scale on knife and use file or whatever you have to shape scale to match tang .After that you can use sandpaper and with hand sanding sand to final shape ...sorry for my bad English
Something like this .........
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Before you do anything be sure the tang is perfectly flat.
 
I agree with Stacy that the edge looks thick and needs thinning.

If you have some basic hand tools, you should give it a go. Worst case you will have a ruined piece of micarta or an ugly handle and you will still have learned something. Give it a go and post pics if you get stuck.
 
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