Micro-burr remove or ignore

I've been actively lurking around here/BF+FF+KFF+FoodieF for the last 6 months - read and learned alot on blades&tools from many contributors. My appreciation to all!

Sharp journey: 2006, started with EP + Kitayama8k. 2007, slightly messed-up edges of my 3 jknives. 2009 became discouraged after s30v & zdp. 8 months ago, I need to teach my cousins outside of U.S. learn how to sharpen knives/tools to make a living. 2011-2012 gears: DMT xc-ef, 1k/4k combo & 12k stone, spyderco ceramic med-ef, cbn 0.5-3.0u, md 0.1-12.0u, pd: 0.1-1.0u, crox 0.5u and leather+balsa strops. lol - hopefully this endeavsor turn out better than blind lead blinds.

Thoughts? Edge burr/wire/hinge is a PITA to remove depend on steel. However does micro-hinge (a burr/wire metal hinge width is less than a carbide width) need to be remove for high hrc+toughness alloy? Since most effective burr removal for me was edge leading into the stone. I found stropping or slice felt/softwood would remove burr but at the cost of some carbides pull-out. So, leaving micro-hinge alone and let the cutting be the burr removal, essentially the blade is actually getting sharper with use. I envisions cutting would fold the burr onto the edge, eventually abrade the burr without tear/pull carbides way from the edge.

I test sharpened knives(skd, white carbon, moly san mai, s30v, d2, m4, vg-10, 1095,zdp-189). Set the bevel as good as I can at sub 1k deburr progress through 12K, then I heavy pressure stropped to produce micro-hinge (thus obtuse the edge angle a little bit). For vg-10 initialy won't push cut newspaper but seem push ok after slicing ~20 pages. Diamonds & CBN worked well but CrO abraded too much of the matrix especially for high MOHS Vanadium & Tungsten carbides steel. Please sharpen my synapses?

 

Bluntcut's rambling tofu physics :yawn:

Take a perfect apex - atomic width - of high/hard alloy steel and gently strop with abrasive that softer than carbide. Carbides(partial & whole carbide) surrounding the apex will mostly either (simplify physics)

1. Get dislodge from loss of matrix support and abrasive impact (abrasive collides with carbide)
2. Obstructed/shielded the newly slight convex apex - envision how water flows/wraps around boulder in a stream, where water flow is abrasive, stream bottom is steel.

From 2. Abrasive can't get to the footing of thin shielded apex - with that there are burr/wire. At this point, now it's even impractical to strop them out with diamond and cbn, realistically you need hard abrasive + hard surface abrasion to bring to 2 bevel planes intersect the obstructed points. It's possible to reduce the burr/wire length by strop almost laterally (violin stroke with slight trailing movement)

Slicing cardboard and thick hard leather essentially change abrading vector to onto the apex, thus working on the apex and if there any carbide shielding would mostly be benefit rather than bad. Keep in mind 'slicing' burr/wire removal avoid the apex from impacting with abraded burrs. 'sawing' could damage the thin apex due to collision with chunks of solid steel (burrs) embedded in the material (e.g. wood, leather,etc..).