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Military blade angle
- Thread starter lpd10574
- Start date
I don't think there's any specific angle at which you have to sharpen any knife. If you want high cutting power, do a low/acute angle. If you want better edge retention, do a higher/more obtuse angle.
30˚-40˚ gives a good balance of both.
Use a sharpie marker on the bevels to see where on the edge, if at all, you are grinding. If your angle is too low, you'll be cutting into the bevels and not the edge. The edge won't get sharp then until you bring down the entire bevel at that angle.
30˚-40˚ gives a good balance of both.
Use a sharpie marker on the bevels to see where on the edge, if at all, you are grinding. If your angle is too low, you'll be cutting into the bevels and not the edge. The edge won't get sharp then until you bring down the entire bevel at that angle.
I guess what I was wondering is what angle is the blade from the factory. I have a sharpmaker on order and I wanted to know which angle would be best for keeping the knife factory sharp or, if possible even sharper. From what I have seen the sharpmaker has both 30 and 40 degree shrarpening angle capability.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2006
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If I'm not mistaken, the Sharpmaker's angle refers to 30 and 40 degrees total angle in between both stones. This means that it's actually sharpening the edge to 15 and 20 degrees, respecitvely.
If I'm not mistaken, Spyderco recommends sharpening at the 40-degree setting until the knife has seen quite some use, then use of the 30-degree angle to remove some "shoulder" from the blade is advised. Either angle will work---it depends if you prefer a thinner edge or something a bit stronger. The 40 is closer to factory, if I remember right, although I do not recall the exact angle.
Good luck.
If I'm not mistaken, Spyderco recommends sharpening at the 40-degree setting until the knife has seen quite some use, then use of the 30-degree angle to remove some "shoulder" from the blade is advised. Either angle will work---it depends if you prefer a thinner edge or something a bit stronger. The 40 is closer to factory, if I remember right, although I do not recall the exact angle.
Good luck.
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- Oct 29, 2005
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i would think that all spydies come with 40 degrees inclusively, or darn close, from the factory.
the sharpmaker instructions recommend using the 40 setting unless a backbevel is needed, then the 30.
it has been suggested here to use the 30 to remove part of the shoulder from the primary grind, which i also do, but i don't recall it in the video/instructions. might be there, but i haven't watched it in quite some time.
the sharpmaker instructions recommend using the 40 setting unless a backbevel is needed, then the 30.
it has been suggested here to use the 30 to remove part of the shoulder from the primary grind, which i also do, but i don't recall it in the video/instructions. might be there, but i haven't watched it in quite some time.
Some people have said theirs came less than 30˚, some say around 40˚, but personally, all of mine have come at way over 40˚, I would guess 50˚ or so. That's because it takes me forever to get down to the edge with the Sharpmaker at 40˚.
So when you get your knife and Sharpmaker, be sure to put some ink on the bevels to make sure you're getting the edge.
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- Aug 2, 2006
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- 2,809
Both of my Militaries (CPM D-2 and S90V) are sharpened at 15 degrees per side, straight bevel. No microbevel.
These steels will easily handle 15 degrees. (maybe even 10 degrees) Some steels should be set at 20 or even 25 degres per side, and some can handle less than 10 degrees.
Depends on the steel, the heat treat, and the intended use.
These steels will easily handle 15 degrees. (maybe even 10 degrees) Some steels should be set at 20 or even 25 degres per side, and some can handle less than 10 degrees.
Depends on the steel, the heat treat, and the intended use.
My military was 30* (total) from the factory. I find it works much better and stays sharp longer at 40 degrees.
I only use the flats of my brown stones on the sharpmaker. Less chance of creating a burr on the edge and the somewhat toothy edge it provides will cut like a laser. It will still easily pop hairs off my arm and shave the print off a newspaper.
My sharpmaker is set up on a dresser in my house. Every couple days I just give it 4-5 swipes and put it back in my pocket. Couldn't be any easier and I challenge you to find a knife that cuts better.
I only use the flats of my brown stones on the sharpmaker. Less chance of creating a burr on the edge and the somewhat toothy edge it provides will cut like a laser. It will still easily pop hairs off my arm and shave the print off a newspaper.
My sharpmaker is set up on a dresser in my house. Every couple days I just give it 4-5 swipes and put it back in my pocket. Couldn't be any easier and I challenge you to find a knife that cuts better.