Hello people, oh, btw, i'm back, i have not posted in about a month, sorry, i was way busy and just sick of my computer. Well, over that month, about 3 weeks ago i modified my Military, ats-34/plain edge/new version. I just hate silver clips, and totally dis-like the military's clip, that triangle thing, with three spread apart screws. And another thing, i always hated the way the hump on the blade would catch on my BDU's and jeans when taken out, so, heres what i did.
After taking the triangle clip off, i said to myself, hmmm, lets see what the ecentric D-nut is all about, oh yea, it is not needed to take the whole knife apart to drill holes, and install screws for a new clip, i just wanted to take the puppy apart-sorry sal. Well, i took all the screws out, then, btw, the whole knife cannot be taken apart, like my benchmades, the lanyard hub is peened and compressed so it wont just fall out, but when all screws are out, you simplyrotate the scales, i took the blade out, those two redish very thin washers, and the stop pin. Then came the ecentric D-nut pivot pin, well folks, you must be careful here, the hole pivot is pressed into the scale, and is a bitch to get out, but i simply gave it a good rap on my table, and pop, it came out, no damage, well, the pivot/ecentric D-nut is cool, all it is is a normal pivot pin, with another very small bushing over it, but the bushing does not move, it looks to me as it is all one piece of steel, it is, the bushing is off center, and it can be rotated just by literally rotating the whole pivot, and pushing it back into the scale. By this rotation, the pivot gives the blade an extra 1/64-1/32 distance clearance to the lock bar, and the stop pin, a very good design indeed, but by doing this, you literally shorten the blade very little, and if done wrong, you can make the whole blade off center, trust me, if you want to fiddle with it, like i did, go ahead, but make sure you do everything right, or boy oh boy will you be pissed-leave it up to the factory. This is a very good pivot, but i would just rather replace the lock bar/liner and stop pin when everything wears, but Spyderco wont admit it but why this pivot/D-nut is good is because it will save the money of replacing the liner and stop pin, well, good for them, i want them to have more money, so they can make a new knife
Ok, clip time, well, i decided to use a benchmade black clip, with three T-8 torx screws. I had a 1/16in drill bit, i duct taped the clip where i wanted it, and i mean really duct-taped it, it wouldn't budge, drilled the holes right thru the holes in the clip, then used three other screws to screw into the G-10 scale, i repeated each 2 times, and then put alot of blue loc-tite on the G-10, and the clip screws, then intalled the clip, put the whole knife together, and loc-tited all the screws on the whole knife, then gave the Military a wipe down, just to take the junk off the scales and blade, left it in my draw for 24 hours. The next day, i sprayed the whole knife with WD-40, and gave it a good cleaning, and the knife works awesome, before this project, the liner engaged a tad past the middle of the blade tang, now it sits perfectly on the beginning of the tang, and is great, a little sticky at first, but after a couple hard openings, it is great, and the clip is so good, it carries perfectly, it goes with me on mountain-biking trips, and never sliped, or any problems occured. Plus, the whole knife just looks awesome now, and it is not a bitch to with-draw from the pocket, soooooo smoooooth. The clip and screws is only in the G-10, i will never take em out because this will strip out the G-10, so if you do this, leave the clip in the G-10, no fiddling. Well, have fun with your Military, but i'm having more fun with mine
Answers to some Questions you want are below.
-in the spacer are hubs in which the assembly screws go into, these are very strong, and over all construction is dynomite.
-the liner/leaf lock is only polished half way, the part you dont see is quite nasty looking, but i'm sure this will not affect
the knife.
-the lanyard hub on the butt of the handle can not acidently fall out, it is peened in by both sides, and compressed.
-yes there is two washers, they are very thin, i'd say less than 1/16in in width.
-the whole tang of the Military and all part of the blade are polised and are not rough.
After taking the triangle clip off, i said to myself, hmmm, lets see what the ecentric D-nut is all about, oh yea, it is not needed to take the whole knife apart to drill holes, and install screws for a new clip, i just wanted to take the puppy apart-sorry sal. Well, i took all the screws out, then, btw, the whole knife cannot be taken apart, like my benchmades, the lanyard hub is peened and compressed so it wont just fall out, but when all screws are out, you simplyrotate the scales, i took the blade out, those two redish very thin washers, and the stop pin. Then came the ecentric D-nut pivot pin, well folks, you must be careful here, the hole pivot is pressed into the scale, and is a bitch to get out, but i simply gave it a good rap on my table, and pop, it came out, no damage, well, the pivot/ecentric D-nut is cool, all it is is a normal pivot pin, with another very small bushing over it, but the bushing does not move, it looks to me as it is all one piece of steel, it is, the bushing is off center, and it can be rotated just by literally rotating the whole pivot, and pushing it back into the scale. By this rotation, the pivot gives the blade an extra 1/64-1/32 distance clearance to the lock bar, and the stop pin, a very good design indeed, but by doing this, you literally shorten the blade very little, and if done wrong, you can make the whole blade off center, trust me, if you want to fiddle with it, like i did, go ahead, but make sure you do everything right, or boy oh boy will you be pissed-leave it up to the factory. This is a very good pivot, but i would just rather replace the lock bar/liner and stop pin when everything wears, but Spyderco wont admit it but why this pivot/D-nut is good is because it will save the money of replacing the liner and stop pin, well, good for them, i want them to have more money, so they can make a new knife
Ok, clip time, well, i decided to use a benchmade black clip, with three T-8 torx screws. I had a 1/16in drill bit, i duct taped the clip where i wanted it, and i mean really duct-taped it, it wouldn't budge, drilled the holes right thru the holes in the clip, then used three other screws to screw into the G-10 scale, i repeated each 2 times, and then put alot of blue loc-tite on the G-10, and the clip screws, then intalled the clip, put the whole knife together, and loc-tited all the screws on the whole knife, then gave the Military a wipe down, just to take the junk off the scales and blade, left it in my draw for 24 hours. The next day, i sprayed the whole knife with WD-40, and gave it a good cleaning, and the knife works awesome, before this project, the liner engaged a tad past the middle of the blade tang, now it sits perfectly on the beginning of the tang, and is great, a little sticky at first, but after a couple hard openings, it is great, and the clip is so good, it carries perfectly, it goes with me on mountain-biking trips, and never sliped, or any problems occured. Plus, the whole knife just looks awesome now, and it is not a bitch to with-draw from the pocket, soooooo smoooooth. The clip and screws is only in the G-10, i will never take em out because this will strip out the G-10, so if you do this, leave the clip in the G-10, no fiddling. Well, have fun with your Military, but i'm having more fun with mine Answers to some Questions you want are below.
-in the spacer are hubs in which the assembly screws go into, these are very strong, and over all construction is dynomite.
-the liner/leaf lock is only polished half way, the part you dont see is quite nasty looking, but i'm sure this will not affect
the knife.
-the lanyard hub on the butt of the handle can not acidently fall out, it is peened in by both sides, and compressed.
-yes there is two washers, they are very thin, i'd say less than 1/16in in width.
-the whole tang of the Military and all part of the blade are polised and are not rough.