Mill question

Those are all good instincts Brock, all I can say though is that sometimes great machines sell for pennies and no harm is done by reconnoitering a deal, as long as you don't get too excited.
I saw a BEAUTIFUL Cincinatti Toolmaster mill sell over in Spokane for like $1200... it was an amazing deal for arguably the best machine of its type ever made, but I just couldn't justify having two with my small shop and the expense of hauling it home.
I saw a nice BP go for $1200 in my home town here, again I wanted it but already had another mill.
Deals do happen.
 
I hear you Salem. I should go look at it at least. Take some pics. See what some of you guys think maybe?

Salem Straub said:
Those are all good instincts Brock, all I can say though is that sometimes great machines sell for pennies and no harm is done by reconnoitering a deal, as long as you don't get too excited.
I saw a BEAUTIFUL Cincinatti Toolmaster mill sell over in Spokane for like $1200... it was an amazing deal for arguably the best machine of its type ever made, but I just couldn't justify having two with my small shop and the expense of hauling it home.
I saw a nice BP go for $1200 in my home town here, again I wanted it but already had another mill.
Deals do happen.
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I would ride shotgun with Salem on his assessment....Some shops outgrow the older machines which may have been used on 2 or 3 shifts of work and will replace the motor due to age and motor fatigue...Motors on machinery will die eventually and its probably 3 phase so they just opted to put a new one on at the first sign of problems and put it out to pasture and now its just taking up space it happens in manufacturing. I would be asking them to turn it on and run it listen for any discrepancy noises, and crank the X & Y axis to check for backlash (can be cured with a new lead screw and thrust bearing easy fix) check the "Ways" these are the surface areas that mate together that support the table look for heavy rust and you will probably see some discoloration there should be no heavy build up of Swarf or Chipping. Kicking the tires and asking why they are selling and IF they know of any serious problems may just show this to be a Good Deal....
 
Busto said:
I would ride shotgun with Salem on his assessment....Some shops outgrow the older machines which may have been used on 2 or 3 shifts of work and will replace the motor due to age and motor fatigue...Motors on machinery will die eventually and its probably 3 phase so they just opted to put a new one on at the first sign of problems and put it out to pasture and now its just taking up space it happens in manufacturing. I would be asking them to turn it on and run it listen for any discrepancy noises, and crank the X & Y axis to check for backlash (can be cured with a new lead screw and thrust bearing easy fix) check the "Ways" these are the surface areas that mate together that support the table look for heavy rust and you will probably see some discoloration there should be no heavy build up of Swarf or Chipping. Kicking the tires and asking why they are selling and IF they know of any serious problems may just show this to be a Good Deal....
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I agree and will try and go have a look. My earlier review was a bit tongue in cheek, but partly serious. I go cautiously, but I'm not afraid to go.
 
Brock47 said:
I agree and will try and go have a look. My earlier review was a bit tongue in cheek, but partly serious. I go cautiously, but I'm not afraid to go.
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Not the best photo on CL link but didn't look all that bad....granted it's not new and shiny but they were manufactured to last under heavy usage. I would suggest that you check that link I sent previously to look at some of the photos of the used Bridgeport's because they show photos of the ways and the tables so you have an idea of what used equipment can look like when cleaned up vs sitting in a shop kinda cleaned up...Caution is good and it is a clone of a BP so have to take that into consideration however it is a "Knee Mill" much better than those round column Chinese Machines...
 
Yes, whatever mill you look at check it for backlash for sure...
Of course, that's turning the x and y handwheels or cranks one way until the table moves, then turn it the other way and observe how many thou the crank must turn before the table begins to move. There will always be some, like 5-10 thou is quite good really, that's like new more or less, but 30-60 is pretty typical for an older machine. Mine has 90 thou backlash one way and 70 the other, but that's OK with me, someone has to love her. I'll be getting a new nut for it. Some of the BP's and clones have an adjustable type nut that can take some of that backlash out. Having a DRO makes backlash matter less, and being conscious of clamping the table as needed, as well as which way the table would jump, given your direction starting a cut.
If there is sigificant backlash at the center of the table, but much less and stiffer travel at the ends of the table, that may indicate a well-worn leadscrew. Depending on the brand of mill, new ones may be available but they are not super cheap.
A bad thing would be if you took those table covers off the mill from the ad, and the table was swiss-cheesed up. A few holes here and there are typical.
 
Salem Straub said:
Yes, whatever mill you look at check it for backlash for sure.......
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Thanks again Salem. This is all really good stuff. I am learning.
I did buy a HF mini-mill for 120 bucks on CL. Haven't really used it yet, and I probably won't settle on it. It's so small.
But it could be good for drilling, but I am pretty sure I still want a bench top or full size knee mill.
I can't make my next grinder from an HF mini-mill. :)
 
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