Mill "requirements"

Throw in cutting the nail knick as well
Yes, I have seen this done a few different ways now. This definitely seems like a side cut. There is a similar problem/solution that does something similar with a kutzall tool for making beehive hand holds. I have not done it, but have seen jigging that uses a DP to accomplish it with that and it is definitely a sideways cut. So, I had been thinking about this before.

The one I watched was Makers Movement using a particular grind stone and securing the blade to a heavy piece of steel and moves the blade into the stone. I will have to experiment, but this seems doable either as-is, or if I can manage mounting the stone with a 2 point support. Or possibly mounting the stone on a different tool, such as an angle grinder, or hand drill or even the router table. And I have heard tell or people doing nail-nicks with a dremmel.

It is such a small detail, but an important one none the less. It is certainly one feature you will constantly see, and use. Fortunately, I am not presently interested in doing match-strike nail-nicks :)

Thanks for pointing me at this task.
 
My Mini mill died on the weekend.
It died while working on a big order I have to finish. Looked around to ordering and all were out of stock, except Harbor Freight.
I need a mill now.

I placed an order on Saturday and it is arriving today, Wednesday.

So I look forward to getting another 25 years out of this one as well.
Can't really complain. I paid $400 25 years ago for it and the new one is $800.
That one little mill paid for itself hundreds of times over.
When you say it died, what does that mean? Was it not something like a motor you could simply replace?

Funny thing, I went out looking at them this past weekend. HF, had none on the display area (just the mini-lathe 8x16 I think.) And didn't seem to even have a box somewhere nearby. So on our way back I went into Northern Tool, figured I could touch their Klutch, which I assume to be a similar device. After hunting all over the store I finally found it. Unfortunately it was boxed up in its wooden crate, and sitting on a shelf. So other than touching the wood, there was no interaction for that one either :)
 
Perhaps regroup after forging out 500 RR spikes...
I have no intention to forge even 1 RR spike. Or anything else for that matter. I am strictly interested in solely stock removal. I believe the latest pejorative is "Grinder Bandit" :)

I am curious, however, what a mill would have to do with a forged RR spike? Normally when I have seen them done, they are heated up and twisted, then a blade shape is hammered, shaped, beveled, and sharpened. What do you use a mill for when forging your 500 RR spike knives?
 
When you say it died, what does that mean? Was it not something like a motor you could simply replace?

Funny thing, I went out looking at them this past weekend. HF, had none on the display area (just the mini-lathe 8x16 I think.) And didn't seem to even have a box somewhere nearby. So on our way back I went into Northern Tool, figured I could touch their Klutch, which I assume to be a similar device. After hunting all over the store I finally found it. Unfortunately it was boxed up in its wooden crate, and sitting on a shelf. So other than touching the wood, there was no interaction for that one either :)
I will using and end mill to make a hole. It stopped. Checked the fuse, I have never ever had to replace the fuse, and it was blown. Put new fuse it turned it on shop lights flickered and blew the fuse, repeated that a couple of times. Opened up the box and stuff was fried. I am not an electronics guy so got a new one.

My first one I walked into the store to get it. Now Mills are only online for purchase
 
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I have no intention to forge even 1 RR spike. Or anything else for that matter. I am strictly interested in solely stock removal. I believe the latest pejorative is "Grinder Bandit" :)

I am curious, however, what a mill would have to do with a forged RR spike? Normally when I have seen them done, they are heated up and twisted, then a blade shape is hammered, shaped, beveled, and sharpened. What do you use a mill for when forging your 500 RR spike knives?
Ha yes, I'm a stock removal guy myself.
There is a running joke here that new makers should start by forging 500 RR spikes...
 
So I look forward to getting another 25 years out of this one as well.
Can't really complain. I paid $400 25 years ago for it and the new one is $800.
That one little mill paid for itself hundreds of times over.
25 years from purchase to failure point is a good testimony. You should be on a commercial for them. I do wonder, if the one you just got is built as well as the one you got 25 years ago. I have seen other of their tools and others' as well where one year things like gears and such were aluminum... and then all the sudden such parts are now plastic. Not sure if that makes them better or worse, but interesting to see.

So, if I had asked "If your mill were gone today, what would you replace it with..." I guess I got the answer! The exact same one. :) That is something to keep in the back of my mind, because I do assume at some point I will have either a small mill or lathe. Although everyone seems to like to rag on HF, speaking with someone who was able to squeeze 25 years out of one is refreshing to hear. Perhaps enough so to not consider the Taig at twice the price.
 
Thanks! Although I do regard this response as un-helpful, I still appreciate your desire to contribute to the conversation at hand. Unfortunately, you have not described any processes you use that require a mill, nor any processes you accomplish without a mill that others depend on the mill for. But fortunately, you have "put me in my place", informing me that asking questions about things is unnecessary, and inappropriate until I have "paid my dues". I really appreciate that, because it will help me to not get too big for my breaches.
LOL - well said :-) .
 
Ha yes, I'm a stock removal guy myself.
There is a running joke here that new makers should start by forging 500 RR spikes...
The other thing I never got was that I didn't think RR spikes were good blade steel. From what I have read they are somewhere between 1018 and 1045 at best. But I see lots of people making knives from them... Rebar too. I guess it is the equivalent of pallet wood in the metal world. :)
 
I will using and end mill to make a hole. It stopped. Checked the fuse, I have never ever had to replace the fuse, and it was blown. Put new fuse it turned it on shop lights flickered and blew the fuse, repeated that a couple of times. Opened up the box and stuff was fried. I am not an electronics guy so got a new one.

My first one I walked into the store to get it. Now Mills are only online for purchase
That sounds awful! However, most of the expense of that machine is in the parts that aren't electronics. I know they maintain a full parts inventory, I've gotten stuff to refurbish other machines from them before. It is possible the whole box as a unit could be replaced.
 
That sounds awful! However, most of the expense of that machine is in the parts that aren't electronics. I know they maintain a full parts inventory, I've gotten stuff to refurbish other machines from them before. It is possible the whole box as a unit could be replaced.
To replace the electronics(head assembly) is $435 plus shipping and LMS is out of stock.
This is not my first rodeo.
A new machine is $800.
 
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That's not the first time I did that, but the last time I deleted the whole thing before hitting send. Some days the finger is faster than the common sense.
Well, yeah … but sometimes that particular point deserves to be made… and at least in my opinion you have a rather deft hand at it…
 
I apologize for coming across as unhelpful. It was not my intent to put anyone "in their place". I do however believe as how pros and cons of using a drill press as a mill have put forward, it may be time to try it. We all know there are more ways to skin the proverbial cat than one. Asking questions is never wrong. It's what makes this forum great.
 
I will using and end mill to make a hole. It stopped. Checked the fuse, I have never ever had to replace the fuse, and it was blown. Put new fuse it turned it on shop lights flickered and blew the fuse, repeated that a couple of times. Opened up the box and stuff was fried. I am not an electronics guy so got a new one.

My first one I walked into the store to get it. Now Mills are only online for purchase
I just looked, I guess I was wrong about them stocking parts. They only have like 4 parts available for that machine:

 
I apologize for coming across as unhelpful. It was not my intent to put anyone "in their place". I do however believe as how pros and cons of using a drill press as a mill have put forward, it may be time to try it. We all know there are more ways to skin the proverbial cat than one. Asking questions is never wrong. It's what makes this forum great.
Thanks, accepted. And I apologize for coming across as snarky in my response.

Now, for clarity:

I wasn't trying to suggest that I would be able to make a drill press do the work of a mill. I recognize a MT without a draw bar will not tolerate lateral pressures, although I am pretty sure this particular DP was used that way before I owned it, because of how hard it was to remove the MT from the quill when the teeth finally failed and I had to replace the chuck. The guy before me said he used it strictly for milling, though at the time I didn't even know what that suggested, and didn't bother to ask him, as we were working a deal/trade on my full height floor unit for his larger sized bench model. But, so far, I have tried in the past to use it laterally and with the exception of running a wire wheel, or when I used a makeshift live center ... was quite unsuccessful...

What I was suggesting is that some of the tasks like "drilling a straight, square, accurate hole" that people claim to use their milling machine for, is, in fact, a task for which a drill press was specifically designed. Granted, most people have a drill press they took out of the box and plugged in and used as it came. You can't do that with a hand plane with almost zero moving parts, much less with a complex machine like a drill press with a minimum of 7. So, being able to drill accurate, square, straight holes was the first excuse to get a mill. So, I felt my DP should be able to do that. I took the time to do the proper tuning and adjustments and tried to see if, I could do it. And I was quite happy to be able to do my concentric 1/4" hole in the 3/8" rod without going diagonal or otherwise screwing it up. Granted, I was off by 12 thou, but it wasn't a wandering thing, it was my eye and my centering. A wiggler or other center finder would probably have helped there, or perhaps starting with the rod in the chuck and the center drill in the vise instead of the other way around. But that was a technique rather than tool problem.

Then I kind of tossed out the challenge to the universe as to what "actual milling task" was required for knife making. I didn't get much response, other than a lot of "if you had one you would use it". I agree wholeheartedly, and if I had a waterjet or EDM I would use it everyday. Just to watch!!

I see every tutorial seems to want to relive those liners with the mill. That amounts to creating a 5 thou deep race a specific offset from a center point. Certainly, a rotary table is a great tool to effect that race path, now, I don't know if 5 thou is too deep to try lateral cutting pressure, but certainly a fixed center point in a vise moved a specific offset from an endmill can easily enough do the work of the rotary table by allowing the work to rotate... and though I haven't tried it yet, I suspect that multiple overlapping plunge cuts with a large enough endmill cutter would create that race is short order, If, the vertical motion can be controlled with the stop of a drill press. This is not necessarily a mill requirement. Although I might not want to make 100 sets of liners with this type of relief in one night, if it required 30 ore more pulls of the dp handle each race, I wouldn't mind doing 1 set, or 5.

If I were to add CNC to the mix, I assume I could be cutting out blades and springs and liners, but haven't even begun to discuss CNC mill, because at that point, I would have preference for watejet or EDM or a stamping punch or something of that nature. I am trying to become a knife maker, not a full on production factory. So, I am not even considering such things, and this has become a tangental thing.

Back to the point. I get that each level of automation and tool, will make the tasks at hand easier, or faster. So, sure they have their worth. What I am trying to decide is necessity. As in is there some task that although you can do it, and it will perhaps come out okay, on a good day. That really, should, in fact, be done with a mill or a lathe.

Since many people are reiterating "People have been making xyz for abc years/decades/centuries without this, that, or the other tool...." therefore they aren't necessary. I would lean that way. But I don't really want to do things the way they did 200 years ago. I like the electricity in my shop. I like metal cutting band saws. I like 2HP belt grinders. And I like computer controlled programmable heat treat furnaces. So perhaps my question was misconstrued. But, I know I can keep buying equipment one piece after the other until eventually I can push a button and out pops a knife. :) I also know I have to stop somewhere, at least for a while. But since both books I am reading seem to go right after the milling machine, and the next one on my list is getting bad reviews from people who complain that the author has a full working machine shop and leans heavily on it in his process... I had to stop and ask, 1. should I be considering one, and 2. Are there alternatives that I already have capabilities for. This might have been easier if I had a real live mentor, and I could simply mimic his setup, or come over to borrow some of his capabilities once in a while... But I digress.

I did this when considering the band saw. I did this when considering the belt grinder. I did this when considering my HT options. I am doing this with the mill and lathe... and I will probably do it again later when I consider a waterjet, or even more fun EDM. Even though I think the die punch setup would be satisfyingly cool too :)

It's just how I research new verticals. Makes me a bit odd, perhaps. But I feel better about my final decisions and much less rash. I will still make some rash decisions... so when it is over about $100 I start trying to make well though out decisions. :)
 
Well, yeah … but sometimes that particular point deserves to be made… and at least in my opinion you have a rather deft hand at it…
Sometimes it get one banned :) So there's that. Or it starts a fight/argument which is never really a good thing. Most of the time I type it out and then hit delete. Just every once in a while I hit the send key too quick. I generally always feel bad about it. It seems rude.
 
To replace the electronics(head assembly) is $435 plus shipping and LMS is out of stock.
This is not my first rodeo.
A new machine is $800.
That sucks. And I have to just guess that for $435 you are likely getting about $17.50 worth of electronics. But that is a guess. Definitely, the new machine is the way to go, at less than double the replacement parts cost.

Now the key is coming up with something practical to do with it. I assume it still has a good well functioning x-y. Strong vertical column. Perhaps it is time for an overarm router.

Sorry, it would kill me to toss out that much precision value. There has to be something that can be done with it besides scrap. :)
 
thought my main board to my mini mill was shot (spindle was stuttering from over load) only to find out that the bearings i had replaced over the summer had too much pre load on them and it didnt show till winter thickeden the bearingg greese. i have my old contorler that i woudl be willing to part with and a new draw bar that was sent (thought i had ordered the R8 one but got the MT )
 
thought my main board to my mini mill was shot (spindle was stuttering from over load) only to find out that the bearings i had replaced over the summer had too much pre load on them and it didnt show till winter thickeden the bearingg greese. i have my old contorler that i woudl be willing to part with and a new draw bar that was sent (thought i had ordered the R8 one but got the MT )
Thanks,
I have no idea what damage is done where.

HF got me the mill in 3 business days and this morning I got it up and running.
 
nd then all the sudden such parts are now plastic. Not sure if that makes them better or worse, but interesting to see.
The gears in the HF x2 mill have always been plastic. Years ago I bought the belt drive upgrade and will be installing it on the new mill.
 
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