Milling slipjoint liners?

J

Jason Fry

Joined
Jun 5, 2008
Messages
3,232
I've got a mill, finally, but haven't done a slipjoint since I got it. Anybody care to show a pic of how you hold down liners for milling? I'm kind of thinking of a piece of flat stock with a few threaded holes, a few pin holes, and some washers, but I'd sure like to see what you guys use.
 
Pretty much the same as I do it (I'm pretty sure I copied Tony's). The only difference is mine is
clamped directly to the table on the mill without the vise in between.
Ken.
 
I thought of doing it this way but was worried that the mill might snatch the rotating part of the fixture out of my hands.

Is it easy enough to keep control?

This would save me buying a rotary table.
 
The trick to doing something like that will be to have the pivot under some tension, not much but not freewheeling, use the smallest diameter endmill possible to create your feature, and keep your depth of cut low. Sharp endmill, and HSS will likely hold up better than carbide as you will have some back lash, compared to a fixed setup. And the hand held side of the pivot relatively long, as it's a lever of mechanical advantage.
 
I use a 1/2" end mill and the cut you're taking is quite shallow so controlling the swivel part of the fixture has not been an issue. The pivot is under tension but the plate with the liner is free to swivel so if you let go it will spin.
 
I've been meaning to try this, but have been using .005" bronze washers on either side of the blade for years.
Tony showed me how he does it at his shop a few years ago, pretty simple and quick.
 
I was using a small rotary table for a while. You get a little more insurance from grabbing, but lately, I've just been doing it similar to the Bose fixture, as it's really not an issue if you understand which way it tends to want to pull.If you mae the rotating plate longer, you get even more leverage and with the shallow DOC, it's quite easy to control.
 
Found a pic I had in photo bucket showing my tooling plate on the mill table. The stock was aluminum just for the pic. Ken.
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Glad y'all shared these pics because I was getting ready to buy a rotary table. BTW, is it just me or does the pin in the pivot hole look like it just came out of a forge. LOL
 
The pin in the pivot hole just has some powder paint on it. It was a disc brazed onto a drill bit. When I tighten up the allen
screw at the back I lightly tap it with a plastic mallet. (tight, but not too tight) very similar to what Kuraki describes.
Ken.
 
Much thanks, Ken. That's what I wasn't getting a handle on... how the pivot pin worked. From your description, the head brazed on a drill bit shank, held in with a set screw, it all makes sense!
 
TTT so I can find this in Tapatalk and post a pic of the jig I came up with. As I'm getting better at this milling thing I'll likely end up with a Bose jig, but for now, this one was practice in squaring up stock and drilling and tapping precise holes.
 
feb348d160dfa168790299e546cd8c95.jpg

This is the final version, including the hold down screws for the front of the liners.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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