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Mineral oil for my Gransfor Bruk(Brand new =)
- Thread starter NeedItCheaper
- Start date
I turn wooden bowls that are used for food and prefer using walnut oil as a finish. It dries after a week or two being exposed to sun light and forms a true finish kind of like BLO. Started using it on axe handles and like it for them as well. You can use walnut oil mixed in you salad dressing if you want.
I cannot claim a great deal of experience, but I like Tung oil much better than BLO. Tung oil is expensive, so I will use BLO on big outdoor things I want to protect, for example bunk boards on a boat trailer. But I expect them to turn dark, almost black, over time. If I am going to put in the labor of preparing a tool handle (removing varnish, sanding, rubbing in multiple coats), then I am going to maximize my effort by using what I think is the best stuff, and that is Tung oil.
Thanks…but why?
Elgatodeacero
Gold Member
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- Jan 5, 2014
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- 3,071
This is what you want for wood handles……
food safe and totally non-toxic.
Danish Oil - Tried & True
Danish Oil wood finish is safe for skin and food contact, 100% linseed oil, solvent free and zero VOC's. Ideal for fast and easy application.
www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com
food safe and totally non-toxic.
To me, comparing to BLO, Tung Oil results in a harder finish that does not turn black over time. Perhaps there is something I am doing wrong when using the BLO? I usually make the first application of Tung Oil 50/50 with mineral spirits to help penetration. After that, two or three THIN applications of straight Tung Oil goes on.
If Danish Oil is 100% Linseed oil, how is it better than another brand of 100% Linseed oil? Not arguing your preference, just curious.This is what you want for wood handles……
Danish Oil - Tried & True
Danish Oil wood finish is safe for skin and food contact, 100% linseed oil, solvent free and zero VOC's. Ideal for fast and easy application.www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com
food safe and totally non-toxic.
Elgatodeacero
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Messages
- 3,071
it has no toxic additives like heavy metals and dryers. i think Tried&True is natural oil only.
I guess it is a matter of definition. My understanding is no one actually boils Linseed oil anymore. Instead, they add dryers, etc., but call it BLO. By definition, if something is added, then it cannot be 100% Linseed oil (let's call it pure.) I get that Danish Oil Tried and True is natural oil only, i.e. pure (although I do wonder if/how they keep it from taking too long to dry, cure, whatever, which is the reason for "real" BLO, or what is now called BLO.) My question is "Is Tried and True any better than any other pure Linseed oil, and if so, how so?
Elgatodeacero
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2014
- Messages
- 3,071
it is a great product because it leaves a good looking, durable finish and it is food safe and non-toxic to your skin and organs and the world in general.
I am not aware of any other danish/linseed oil products that have zero toxic additives but maybe they exist.
Tried and True does cost more than the formulations with toxic additives.
here is the SDS so you can use to compare similar products
I am not aware of any other danish/linseed oil products that have zero toxic additives but maybe they exist.
Tried and True does cost more than the formulations with toxic additives.
here is the SDS so you can use to compare similar products
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2023
- Messages
- 38
I use food grade mineral oil on my cutting boards, wooden spoons and wood kitchen knife handles. It doesn't seem to dry completely on the wood, but then it doesn't really remain wet and oily either. Since all of those items get washed in water, the oil helps preserve and prevent cracking - so I put up with just a bit more of a slick surface on those items. But an axe handle has none of those requirements, so I wouldn't use mineral oil it. I am another fan of tung oil, but it is a pain to work with. Lots of coats, lots of sanding and tung oil dries on bottle threads so you have to wipe the threads every time you use it. Also, tung oil reacts to air, so you need to displace the air in your storage bottle (like with glass marbles) so air doesn't cause the tung oil to go bad. Other than that, it's my favorite finish and I use it on all my walking sticks and would use it on all my axe handles if they required attention. But for an axe handle, any good finish is ok so takes your pick.