Mineral oil to oil the joints?

Good idea.
Mineral oil is a very pure oil, so it doesn't oxidize over time. It has good lubricant properties.
YMMV, but it works for me.
 
I use "TUF-GLIDE - A quick-drying partner for TUF-CLOTH, TUF-GLIDE is a powerful dry-film rust inhibitor and lubricant that outperforms oils, silicones and similar products. The coating bonds to metals so it will not wash or wipe off. Use TUF-GLIDE to protect the hard-to-reach areas of all your equipment and gear."

I like it because it's a dry lube.

I wouldn't use mineral oil, but have heard people do. [edit to add that I have no good reason to have such a bias...I just do]

One of the things I wonder about is gun oils or CLPs specifically. Some of them are very good protectants, but you don't read much about them being used on knives.
 
Mineral oil is an excellent idea if the blade will ever come in contact with food. Since all of mine do, it's all I ever use.
 
I don't see how it can hurt anything. Like was said, it's a pure enough oil for food use items.

Growing up, we just used what was around. Dad kept a little can of the old standby, 3-in-1 handy, and used a match torn out of a book to swab a little bit where it was needed. I did the same for year. I've also used Hoppe's gun oil a lot. It hasn't killed me yet. I have used the mineral oil on my Opinels as it seemed to penitrate the wood a bit better.

I think any oil is better than no oil. It all works.:thumbup:

I read someplace years ago that some custom maker used peanut oil on his stag and the oil gave the stag a nice golden hue.
 
I use some kind of gun oil - usually Breakfree CLP.

However, me and my old stockman spent the night in the woods soaking wet last september, and it was in bad shape after that - so I filled up a bowl full of mineral oil and plopped the knife in there for about 2 weeks worth of soak. It helped a great deal.
 
I use mineral oil for all of my carbon blades that come in contact with food. But I like to mix it up a bit....lemon oil for my stag, gun oil on a lot of my woodsy users (mainly because I usually have a gun with me and have a bottle of oil in the event of bad weather), etc.
 
A toothbrush dampened with Mineral oil

Puts just enough in the joints and cleans it from junk at the same time
And is food safe
 
I use mineral oil on the joints and to lightly coat the blades also. It's always worked well for me.
 
Mineral oil is the lubricant in WD-40. Some folks around here diss it, but I think its good stuff.
 
On a new knife I will use Breakfree CLP and work it in which helps clean out left over polishing compound which I wipe off.
 
Would it be good to rub down ram's horn with? I want to protect it and bring back some of the shine on my cannitler.
 
Would it be good to rub down ram's horn with? I want to protect it and bring back some of the shine on my cannitler.

This question comes up on a fairly regular basis around here. I'm not a fan of oiling stag/antler handle materials, because it will discolor and soften them. I've come around to Ed Fowler's way of thinking that the best thing for them is to simply get a little oil on your finger from the side of your nose or in back of your ears and rub that in. They don't need a lot of oil.
 
I'm not a fan of oiling stag/antler handle materials, because it will discolor and soften them.

How can you tell about the discoloration? Just handling a knife through use will change the color of stag. And I've never experienced the softening that you are talking about.
 
How can you tell about the discoloration? Just handling a knife through use will change the color of stag. And I've never experienced the softening that you are talking about.

True enough, but it won't discolor nearly as fast or as much. Let's face it, stag is going to yellow with time no matter what you do. But I've found that mineral oil tends to give it a brownish hue rather than yellow. As far as softening, it's not much, and hopefully you'll never be in a position to find out, but if you ding a piece of well-oiled stag, you will notice the ding a bit more.
 
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