Mineral Oli/Tuf-glide/Cloth...etc?

I like to stick to natural oils, as I use my blades on food I and my family eat. Mineral oil/ballistol is good to go. I know some folks use extra virgin olive oil, it makes a good coating, and its easy and cheap to get. Just my $.02. Be cool.

Moose
 
well yea i dont know if for food use was mentioned before if it was i guess i missed it if i need it for food use i use pam lmao .. ya know the cooking spray and wipe it with a papertowel
 
moosez45 said:
I use Ballistol
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Being a lube/corrosion inhibitor junky (strange, I know) I looked up its Material Data Safety Sheet. Too long to post here. They've done some strange stuff with it, like fill up the GI tract of small creatures with it, and after evacuation, the animals appear to suffer no adverse effects.

But the ingredients are:

Mineral Oil
Potassium Oleate (surfactant/emulsifier)
Ammonium Oleate
Oleic Acid (fatty acid/oil)
Benzyl Alcohol
Amyl Alcohol
Isobutyl Alcohol
Benzyl Acetate (organic compound used in cosmetics for aroma; solvent)
Anethole (natural aromatic compound, smells like anise/licorice)
Isohexane (aerosol only)

So as best can tell (its been 25 years since I studied organic chemistry) the mineral oil and oleic acid provide lubricity, while the alcohols and perhaps the benzyl acetate are solvents.

So in some respects its action is similar to WD-40 (mineral oil for lubricity, mineral spirits for solvent), but Ballistol has a higher pH which neutralizes acids in gun bores. And Ballistol mixes with water (because of the emulsifier), which is beneficial in some applications. A person I contacted at Ballistol assured me that it is nothing like WD-40. :)

I have not tried the stuff, but I will.
 
powernoodle said:
Being a lube/corrosion inhibitor junky (strange, I know) I looked up its Material Data Safety Sheet. Too long to post here. They've done some strange stuff with it, like fill up the GI tract of small creatures with it, and after evacuation, the animals appear to suffer no adverse effects.

But the ingredients are:

Mineral Oil
Potassium Oleate (surfactant/emulsifier)
Ammonium Oleate
Oleic Acid (fatty acid/oil)
Benzyl Alcohol
Amyl Alcohol
Isobutyl Alcohol
Benzyl Acetate (organic compound used in cosmetics for aroma; solvent)
Anethole (natural aromatic compound, smells like anise/licorice)
Isohexane (aerosol only)

So as best can tell (its been 25 years since I studied organic chemistry) the mineral oil and oleic acid provide lubricity, while the alcohols and perhaps the benzyl acetate are solvents.

So in some respects its action is similar to WD-40 (mineral oil for lubricity, mineral spirits for solvent), but Ballistol has a higher pH which neutralizes acids in gun bores. And Ballistol mixes with water (because of the emulsifier), which is beneficial in some applications. A person I contacted at Ballistol assured me that it is nothing like WD-40. :)

I have not tried the stuff, but I will.
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Nice post Noodle, thanks for that. I have used it for a while, I always thought the alcohols and other chems were for delivery of the mineral oil media. Shows what I know. I love the stuff, but mostly, 'cause I have VERY, VERY acid hands, that tear gun and knife finishes up. Not the coated stuff obviously. Mineral oil allows me to fondle my old Colts without worry of corrosion.

On my Howa Heavy barrel, I use Sweets 7.62 for the bore and Ballistol on the outers. All my handguns get Hoppes No. 9 for the bore and Ballistol on the outers.

Good stuffe, thank you again.

Moose
 
I've got mineral oil for knives that might go directly to use on my food. Break-Free is great at rust prevention. Gun-Butter or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for a knife with moving parts.
 
I keep all my knives lubed and ready with some K-Y Jelly.

Know I really use olive oil......
 
Esav Benyamin said:
I keep food grade mineral oil on the kitchen counter. Does a great job on high carbon knives.

Tuf Cloth and Tuf Glide are also effective.
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What the wise old bearded one said... :thumbup:
 
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