Miner's axe for a Kindling axe ... and what else?

T

thunderstick

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Jan 15, 2007
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I ordered a C/T Dayton miner's axe with a 20" handle. It's a bit of an experiment for me as I never used a miner's axe before. I'm thinking a heavy head on a 20" handle with a fairly straight edge ought to make a nice kindling axe. A two handed axe is a bit long for splitting the starter kindling and a 20" handle with a 2-1/4# head sometimes don't break down the standard size firewood splits as well on the first split. Sometimes I bust the standard size firewood down first with a larger axe and then go to the 20" kindling axe for the smaller splits.
I'm thinking a miner's axe might work well for everything. The straight edge ought to work well also when laying the kindling horizontal on the chopping block to break it into small pieces.
Might be a nice camping splitter also.
Anyone else use a miner's axe above ground--if so what for?
 
I have used a Miners axe for kindling for several years. I found a 3.5 Lb Plumb Dayton on a 18" or 20" handle at a garage sale. I took it up to our camp in the U.P. MI. where we have campfires very often. It is great for that use.

I don't think it would be any good as a felling axe. Just too short a handle for that.

Tom
 
Your comments make me think that perhaps it would be a good companion to a saw for felling trees:
1. short enough handle to carry on your waist
2. can clear small growth around the tree
3. a little more heft for for debarking and/or driving in the felling wedges
4. good for limbing in tight quarters
 
I know a few logging crews that carry boys axes. They use them to limb, for sounding, driving wedges.

I've read of other crews that carry a full size felling axes used as above and double bits. Both of these have been also used as undercutters.

Don't recall anyone using a Miners axe with a trail crew.

Tom
 
I don't know of anyone either that uses a Miner's axe as a felling companion - just thinking that the heavier head might do the same work as a Boy's axe with less handle length so that you could also carry it on the belt if need be.
 
Since I have had my miners axe...I have always thought that it is a special needs / use axe. The short handle and heavy head just make it awkward for me to use other than by the campfire for kindling. I'm sure that it could be put to many other uses. I for one would like at least the handle length of a boys axe to limb with and for sounding a tree.

I have friend who's favorite axe to use is a 1.5 to 2 Lb. head on a 18" or 20" handle. He calls it a house axe because it gets the most use around the house. If you put a 3.5 Lb head on the short handle the whole balance of it becomes a control issue.

Good luck with yours, Tom
 
Two of three entries in and I still don't know what a 'miner's axe' is. Short haft on a big head? Educate me please.
 
300Six said:
Two of three entries in and I still don't know what a 'miner's axe' is. Short haft on a big head? Educate me please.
Click to expand...

In general, yes. Some think of this as a roughly 2lb head on an 18-19" curved handle, like a large hatchet. I think of them as 3.5lb heads- usually Daytons, on a 19-20" straight handle.
 
300Six said:
Two of three entries in and I still don't know what a 'miner's axe' is. Short haft on a big head? Educate me please.
Click to expand...

In some of the older catalogs I have seen they are listed as having 26" handles and heavy heads, like 4lbs and bigger it seems. All I have seen listed as miners axes have straight handles.

Several of my friends where loggers in the late seventies and eighties. Those that where fellers used either short handled straight axes(miners) or hammers to drive there wedges. Not little hammers either. The only advantage I can see with the axes is you can stick them in the tree to be handy.

These guys look to be using straight hafted full size heads on shorter handles(a miners axe). I always thought they should be called fellers axes, but that style of axe no doubt predates the chain saw. I could be wrong but to me these are miners axe's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhrfzYOnMdM
 
Supposedly, miners axes were used for installing bracing timbers. I can only imagine the shorter handle is due to the generally low ceiling height and clearance in old mines. House axe is short handled 2ish# axe for splitting kindling or small pieces on a block/stump for feeding the cook stove.

This is all speculation based on hearsay...:)
 
BG_Farmer said:
Supposedly, miners axes were used for installing bracing timbers. I can only imagine the shorter handle is due to the generally low ceiling height and clearance in old mines. House axe is short handled 2ish# axe for splitting kindling or small pieces on a block/stump for feeding the cook stove.

This is all speculation based on hearsay...:)
Click to expand...

LOL! Ain't it all.

It seems that the manufactures can't even agree. So how are we suppose to?

Speaking of manufactures, bet you didn't know this is a Michigan pattern axe, did you?
http://www.amestruetemper.com/produ...tId=1250&SubFamilyId=74&FamilyId=73&LineId=72
 
BG_Farmer said:
No, I would have guessed wrong on that! Isn't that similar ti what true temper used to call "western" pattern which was the alternative to Michigan in some lines (esp. Woodslasher)?
Click to expand...

Not sure on the Woodslashers or what pattern it is but its like no Michigan I have ever seen.
I guess if your the maker or the owner you can call them whatever you want. Which is why we have trouble deciding just what a Miners axe ect, really is.
 
BG_Farmer said:
Supposedly, miners axes were used for installing bracing timbers. I can only imagine the shorter handle is due to the generally low ceiling height and clearance in old mines. House axe is short handled 2ish# axe for splitting kindling or small pieces on a block/stump for feeding the cook stove.

This is all speculation based on hearsay...:)
Click to expand...

Some evidence...

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images



From a 1910 "List of Miner's Tool Equipment":

Axe, is used to chop the wedge to fit over props to secure safety for the men and hold the props in the proper places.

books


from Coal and Coal Trade Journal, Volume 49, 1910
 
"Those that where fellers used either short handled straight axes(miners) or hammers to drive there wedges. Not little hammers either."

This was some of my thinking also that it would be good to drive wedges with the heavy head. I got the axe just need to get it tuned up and put to work.
 
Well I got my axe tuned and put it to work today. At this point I conclude it as the best kindling axe I have used to date. The safer way to split small kindling is by laying them horizontally on the chopping block, rather trying to hold the small pieces vertically to split them. When doing it this way the heavier head and square edge and short handle are a distinct advantage over every other axe I have tried. I'm also thinking this will be a great camping axe.
 
Thanks for the update, thunderstick.

The 1925 catalog from Marshall Wells lists a Miners Axe, with weights from 3-1/4 to 3-3/4 pounds, on a 25" straight handle. It's a Forest King brand with a Wisconsin pattern. The description says, "A sturdy, standard weight axe, for use in close quarters, or wherever a short handled axe is needed."

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For a kindling axe I think (though I have not tried the C/T 26" miner's axe) that the 20" may be more suitable because the work is on smaller pieces up close. The shorter handle gives a more precise aim from a closer range and the weight of the head splits kindling with ease. I could see the benefit of the 25-26" handle when using both hands for a full power swing in tight spaces. I'm also thinking the shorter axe works well for females splitting kindling because the weight of the head will do the work with little swing effort if the aim is precise.
 
Miner's axes become "falling axes" in logging country. Our local saw shop has a large rack of Councils in various handle lengths. A modern falling axe is used mostly to drive wedges and knock out undercuts. No one chops undercuts and haven't for about 60 years. That is why God invented Stihl.
 
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