Mini Glue War Winner - JB Weld

jiminy said:
Most definitely the metal needs to be degreased before the application of any type of adhesive. That is part of the surface preparation required. If the metal is not absolutely degreased and clean, then the glue cannot form a proper bond, and it's not the adhesive that is letting go per se, but the contaminants.
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Don't have to tell me! See my posts about Simple Green. The trick is finding a consumer degreaser that works. The acetone I have leaves a visible film (confirmed by many others). I'll probably do more prep tests.

So far my best results are from freshly abraded steel without any washing.

Steve
 
Sando said:
Don't have to tell me! See my posts about Simple Green. The trick is finding a consumer degreaser that works. The acetone I have leaves a visible film (confirmed by many others). I'll probably do more prep tests.

So far my best results are from freshly abraded steel without any washing.

Steve
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I know for etching blades, Windex is sometimes used for a final cleaning of finger oils, etc. from the surface. Have you tried that? Or is it obviously unfit for use and I should go back under my rock? :footinmou
 
Heck if I know, donuts. Might be just the right thing. Certainly doesn't leave a film on glass. Sounds like a good idea.

Steve
 
I just tested regular blue Windex w/ Ammonia-D on a piece of horizontal plate glass. I sprayed some on and then dried it with a heat gun. At first it looked nice and clear, as if there wasn't a residue. Then I ran a clean cotton rag over it. The first thing I noticed was that the Windex area felt a little drag compared to the rest of the clean glass. A little bit more vigorous rubbing showed a really funky area of residue from the cleaner. For certain, test it yourself and draw your own conclusions, but I don't think this stuff is "The One".
 
I usually use acetone, but I don't just let it dry on, I wipe it off with a clean "shop towel", basically heavy duty paper towels used in the auto maintence industry. Dawn dishwashing liquid cuts oil really well too, rinse until water sheets and then dry it off.
 
Consumer-industrial paper cleaning products are loaded with "extractables", added in for particular characteristics like softness, flexibility, lofting, etc. (It's their own term, and often a "specification" on specialty papers.) Paper towels are NOT the best choice for use with solvents.

Cheesecloth is probably one of the best wipers for low extractables. Medical gauze is even better.

Edited to add: the reason I say this is that many years ago, we went through the exercise of extracting paper towels with various solvents to see what residues they would have in cleaning operations in sterile/clean filling environments. We went entirely to cheescloth.
 
LPS makes a cleaner/degreaser in an aresol can that seems to be a good product. Around here you can find it in auto part stores.
 
What about plain-old alchohol? :confused:

Also, shouldn't another ctriteria for your testing include resistence to solvents after curing?....Just a thought.

Edit: Steve, disregard the suggestion above about resistence to solvents; I've read your other posts on testing adhesives and see you've already taken that into consideration.

Great Job with the tests! I've read all of them and have learned alot! Thanks!!
 
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