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- Oct 25, 2010
- Messages
- 1,405
This. I used to prefer the studs and have a full size still. I picked up a hole version recently on a whim and muck prefer it, probably because I am used to spyderco knives. I also hate anything that might snag.
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mini grip question
- Thread starter Mr Krieg
- Start date
This. I used to prefer the studs and have a full size still. I picked up a hole version recently on a whim and muck prefer it, probably because I am used to spyderco knives. I also hate anything that might snag.
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2008
- Messages
- 264
Has anyone here ever attempted to drill a hole in the Ritter blade? Much care would need to be taken with the HT, obviously - but I think there's enough real estate there to make it work.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Depends what your main purpose is. Sheepsfoot isn't great at penetrating, but it still will. The hole is great, like others have said, because you can use the whole knife and not worry about the thumbstuds. It's a great slicer/skinner (although probably isn't it's best application).
Tanto is great for penetrating/stabbing. Not as a 'self defense', but as a tool. Some people have to pierce a lot of aluminum cans, etc. so that might be the purpose...
If you're worried about not having thumbstuds on the sheepsfoot, you've got two options, that I know if, to remedy that.
Well, lets make it three:
1. Use a zip-tie (if you really want to, it can act as a "ghetto Emerson Wave opener") and as a thumbstud, you can vary your ziptie sizes, color, and material (metal vs plastic).
2. You can buy (I know BladeHQ has them) a 'Kwik thumb stud" or thumb bar, which really is a piece of metal you tighten on. It's intended for Buck style knifes ( like the 110, with the nail tick) but, you've got ample room to put it on the minigrip, and it'll look fine.
3. If you're a spyderco guy, you're probably already used to it, but you could do the whole flick open thing with your middle finger. I've never been able to get that down.
I'd love to show you some pictures, sadly I can't upload them, since I don't have them saved on the computer.
I'd love to refer you to the social network intented to share photographs...However, I've been flagged for spamming before for doing that. Apparently, people like to get a lot of "hits" on their account- this is new to me, I just want the people who have similar interests as I to be able to see my ideas, and share with me, and vice-versa. Regardless, if you're ever on the social-photograph network which shall remain nameless, check my griptilian photos out. It's one of my favorite knives. I don't have any minis, but I've had a drop point and sheepsfoot full size. I'm a simple man, and don't have many usernames..
Tanto is great for penetrating/stabbing. Not as a 'self defense', but as a tool. Some people have to pierce a lot of aluminum cans, etc. so that might be the purpose...
If you're worried about not having thumbstuds on the sheepsfoot, you've got two options, that I know if, to remedy that.
Well, lets make it three:
1. Use a zip-tie (if you really want to, it can act as a "ghetto Emerson Wave opener") and as a thumbstud, you can vary your ziptie sizes, color, and material (metal vs plastic).
2. You can buy (I know BladeHQ has them) a 'Kwik thumb stud" or thumb bar, which really is a piece of metal you tighten on. It's intended for Buck style knifes ( like the 110, with the nail tick) but, you've got ample room to put it on the minigrip, and it'll look fine.
3. If you're a spyderco guy, you're probably already used to it, but you could do the whole flick open thing with your middle finger. I've never been able to get that down.
I'd love to show you some pictures, sadly I can't upload them, since I don't have them saved on the computer.
I'd love to refer you to the social network intented to share photographs...However, I've been flagged for spamming before for doing that. Apparently, people like to get a lot of "hits" on their account- this is new to me, I just want the people who have similar interests as I to be able to see my ideas, and share with me, and vice-versa. Regardless, if you're ever on the social-photograph network which shall remain nameless, check my griptilian photos out. It's one of my favorite knives. I don't have any minis, but I've had a drop point and sheepsfoot full size. I'm a simple man, and don't have many usernames..
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2013
- Messages
- 516
It can be either way for me. Thumbhole tends to make base of the blade much wider regardless of blade shape. So, I don't mind having thumbhole with AFCK or Onslaught. Unfortunately, Griptilian series offer only sheepsfoot and hollow grind blade. I would love to have it on drop point, flat grind blade.
I've given thought to this on a few different BMs, but ultimately chose not to because the knives are just not designed for this, and modifications to allow them to do this would possibly harm the knife and result in something not comfortable to use.
The blades themselves generally do not have the extra steel on it like many Spydercos to account for the loss in steel (ex: how the Delica handle is flared outwards so that there is still a lot of steel on the blade). By doing this, it makes smaller form factors like the Mini Grip or 707 over the wider Delica. But putting a hole on these blades would harm performance significantly more because there is not nearly as much steel here to remove.
Another reason I ruled against this is that in order to allow a larger hole like something on the PM2, one would either have to modify the handle to be sleeker at the thumb stud area, or modify the stop pin so the blade exposes more metal when closed (which won't work because the tip then isn't nearly as well encased by the handle).
Finally, the area that the hole would have to be placed at would be put it in a location that would make opening more awkward (it would have to be closer to where the Doug Ritter logo is, making it uncomfortable to reach with a thumb). Most Spydercos are designed to place the hole very far forward, which isn't possible to do to the Ritter without extensive modification). The Grip HG has an arching flare in this area like the PM2 to do this and allow the hole to be placed in a different location than the stud (while also increasing the amount of steel on the blade by putting the hole in this arch), but the Ritter and most other BMs do not.
So one thing I've settled on for many knives I do not like the opening with is to replace the thumb studs. I generally do a single-sided stud that is larger than the factory ones, and textured for a little more traction. KnifeMaking sites have tons of different models and I generally use a diamond file and a drill so customize them to my liking.