Mini-Manual How to ID Schrade 303 vs Camillus 303

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Apr 19, 2005
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Making this its own thread for the knife history aspect. This answers STDK,' I finally got one' thread below. In that thread TinSue, my partner in 303 knowledge, gave a list of things to look for.

"There are a number of ways to distinguish Schrade from Cami made 303's, including (1) a slight difference in overall shape or configuration of the knife itself; (2) pivot pins not visible on Schrades, but are visible on Cami's, but this can be hard to detect; (3) handle scale pins appear larger on Schrades than on Cami's, and later Cami's (after 1971) lacked scale pins entirely, and (4) rivets in the brass liner that hold on the bolsters are visible inside the blade well gaps of Schrades, but not Cami's (I find this one the easiest)."

I am bringing in visual aids.

First is a side by side comparison of the Schrade made 303 vs the Camillus made 303. At first glance you look for scale rivets, larger on Schrade(usually) but can depend on who buffed out the knife, and the shape of the top edge of the clip blade. Also the Scrade sheepsfoot blade stands especially tall. OK blade guys, what do they call that grind on the top front of the Camillus clip blade.(Top knife). The "Swedge", Thanks to Larry O. for ID
303pair.jpg


NOW FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT:
Schrade made models have hidden pivot pins, Camillus are 99% visible on bolster. Breath moist breath on the bolster and you can see outline of pin. If you have posession of the knife put it in refrig. or freezer then breath on it. Try all the bolsters before declaring it one or the other. Do this carefully, for if you hand me the knife I will also to see if you are right....This is photo of sectioned Schrade made bolster showing hidden pivot pin.

Camillus made 303 pivot pin section.

There are two versions of the Schrade model, one with BUCK stamped on reverse of secondary blades and one that has NO stamping. Several versions of Camillus model over long period of years. See the pivot pin outline in bolster of Cami.
Closeupbolster.jpg


Contract was changed from Schrade to Camillus, MAINLY, because of Buck's forever warranty. The Camillus thru the bolster pivot pin let Buck replace a broken blade. With the Schrade it was generally just a whole new knife.....

Correct box question.
Joe Houser is the authority on this. He has written about dating boxes and papers. There may be a thread on this, I did not search for it. In the photo the oldest box on bottom, newest on top. Papers came out of bottom and middle box. Look at the date on the bottom of the paper for the middle box. Also look at addresses of factory. The blank date paper has the oldest address. It is also a "diamond" surface looking cardboard. See closeup.
Wouldn't you like to get a new 303 for $9.40 today....... Hint: If you really want to save your papers, use steam iron to flatten them out and keep in file, in pencil only, write code number on back corner and then leave number on slip of paper in box. Or not.



So there you go, more than you wanted to know. My thanks to TinSue.
300Bucks
 
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Thanks 300,
Great information and great pics. That really clears up all the questions I had on these knives.
 
The main blade on mine looks like Camillus but the scales are like the Schrade with the lines in it. Also my main blade has Buck 303 U.S.A. in three lines. The scales are held on it not by pins but there are two holes in the brass lining and the scales have a piece molded that go in the holes. There is only one rivet that is through the spring or whatever it is called.
 
Pick your poison,
Oldest top left, then down left side to bottom, then start at right top to right bottom. Yours sounds like a Camillus contract that was made with only slight variations from 1974 to 1985 when Buck started making there own. (All of right row)
Yours sounds like one of the last two at bottom of left row.
All 303s pictured have sawcut scales.
DSCF03382.jpg


For folks wondering what was described for holding your scales on. Picture of inside of several models of 1980's 303s with brass liners. Looking into blade well you see cutouts in liners that let scale material to be 'hot' pressed into them which gives some grab for the scale to the liner without rivets.

300
 
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I would go for the bottom left one because of the blade shape. Lots of great information from you. Thank You
 
I would go for the bottom left one because of the blade shape. Lots of great information from you. Thank You

Check along the spine to see whether yours has three or four brass spacers and that will tell you for certain.
 
Time for a thread ressurection. 300Bucks, thanks for this information. I have also enjoyed your contributions to the Traditionals forum, and now it appears I'll be spending more time over here. I was recently given, by my father, what appears to be a Camillus made, '71-'74 303 cadet. It has the flat ground blades, long pull with swedge on main clip, "BUCK MADE IN U.S.A." stamped on the front side of the main blade tang, and "303" on the reverse, with only the spring pin visible in the sawcut black scales. Also, the pivot pins are visible. One thing I haven't found in your description, though, is the springs appear to have been blued. Is this standard? Also, I haven't found any info on what steel Camillus used for these. Can you tell me?

I love this knife, by the way. I am a newly converted Buck-aholic. I never leave home without it.
 
Buck knives being of that age has class,some of the older buck's have patina.
Or different spring steel
 
I've got to put my 2 cents in also. You guys have absolutely how much I and I'm sure others really appreciate all the research and time helping out us novice collectors. A sincere thanks to all of you involved--especially 300, Joe, and Tin sue. You are the best.
Harold
 
Pick your poison,
Oldest top left, then down left side to bottom, then start at right top to right bottom. Yours sounds like a Camillus contract that was made with only slight variations from 1974 to 1985 when Buck started making there own. (All of right row)
Yours sounds like one of the last two at bottom of left row.
All 303s pictured have sawcut scales.


For folks wondering what was described for holding your scales on. Picture of inside of several models of 1980's 303s with brass liners. Looking into blade well you see cutouts in liners that let scale material to be 'hot' pressed into them which gives some grab for the scale to the liner without rivets.
th_P92800202.jpg

300

Great info as always 300:thumbup: I believe that process is called "integrally molded" and is also a common practice in fastening brake pad lining on the backing plate.
 
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