Mini Mill for folders

T

Taximanny

Joined
Jul 27, 2015
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As you probably already know I'm limited to G10 liners at the time.
I've saved up enough now to buy the HB mini mill.
I feel as though I'm buying it for one purpose only... To relieve metal liners.

Question to those using it building folders...
What else do you use it for?

I'm trying to justify its purchase more clearly in my head.

I know with having the capability to relieve metal liners will open up more options in folder building.

Thanks, Manny
 
The only thing I use a mill for with folders is cutting nail nicks. I use .005" bronze washers so no need to relieve liners.
 
Well regardless I need it for liners.
If using it for both drilling and milling do u change out the collets ?

I thought you couldn't run an end mill bit in the drill press chuck ? Or vise versa?
I'll be running a 3/8" end mill bit.. So I'll have to purchase that collet separately correct ?
 
Don't forget you will need a vise,clamps,and some parallels and a dial indicator to index every thing.
Also to do really nice mill relived liners you need a 4" rotary table.
 
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I know nothing about machining...
Thanks for the link.
So you have to take the drill chuck off every time you use a collet?
I just looked at my 3/8" end mill and there is not a flat spot on the side ???
A collet I seen had a set screw.
 
Yes the drill chuck will be on an adapter from R8 to what ever taper your check is.Just unscrew the drawbar and slide one out and the other in. Just takes a couple minuets
 
Taximanny said:
I know nothing about machining...
Thanks for the link.
So you have to take the drill chuck off every time you use a collet?
I just looked at my 3/8" end mill and there is not a flat spot on the side ???
A collet I seen had a set screw.
Click to expand...


Collet wont have a set screw, an end-mill holder will. The set screw is for a Weldon shank, which is what they call a tool with that flat.

Usually you won't find them on small diameter end mills, and you'll simply use a collet, which will symmetrically close around the shank of the tool as you tighten the draw bar.


Yes, you'll have to remove the drill chuck when using collets, unless you want to destroy your chuck's accuracy. It's not a big deal to switch it out.
 
Watched some more UTube videos and found one where he changes it out.
Simple enough.
Thanks for the help everyone.
 
New to machining also, I'm picking up my new grizzly g0704 tomorrow! I called up Missouri Tools Co and got a few basic things like 123 blocks a few months ago and when I went to pick it up the owner came out a chatted with me for a bit and gave me a giant catalog. Worthwhile to look them up, not to far from ya
 
i really only used the chuck for non std size drill bits (like those that are tapping sizes and then i can cuck a tap in and slowly hand turn it into the hole
i have 1/8 -1/4 collets with drill bits in them as they are my most used sized drills and then the other 2 collets i use on the mini are 3/8 and 1/2 those 5 sizes cover 90% of the work you will ever do on the mini mill
i woudl never use a mill in a drill chuck
 
alot of the smaller cutters (tht are proper for the mini mill) have 3/8 shank so good call on best way to start buildig tooling on the budget. im starting to think that collecting tooling for a mill and lathe never ends
 
butcher_block said:
alot of the smaller cutters (tht are proper for the mini mill) have 3/8 shank so good call on best way to start buildig tooling on the budget. im starting to think that collecting tooling for a mill and lathe never ends
Click to expand...

Purchasing the Mill is just a tip of the iceberg so to speak... I've been a Machinist at NASA for 30 years you should see my Personal tool boxes just for my hobby....:eek::eek::D
 
I have a full sized knee mill, but it's one of the more used tools in the shop. While it is used A LOT for drilling (much more guarantee of a clean, squared up hole), I also use it for milling liners, cutting nail nicks, and also cutting the notch in the back of the blade for the back spring. This ensures a clean, straight, and perfectly square notch on the tang.
 
My first purchase after the mini mill was a 22 piece R8 collet set from Steelex for $75. Very happy with it. I also can't live without a 1-2-3 block. Something I already had and use a lot is a milling vise. You'll need a hold down set if it didn't come with the mill.

My mill replaced my drill press which collects dust. As mentioned, only mill with the collets and only use the drill chuck to drill when accuracy isn't as important or you have an odd size that won't fit into a collet. Takes me about ten seconds to change so it's not a big deal.
 
Varga Knives said:
My first purchase after the mini mill was a 22 piece R8 collet set from Steelex for $75. Very happy with it. I also can't live without a 1-2-3 block. Something I already had and use a lot is a milling vise. You'll need a hold down set if it didn't come with the mill.

My mill replaced my drill press which collects dust. As mentioned, only mill with the collets and only use the drill chuck to drill when accuracy isn't as important or you have an odd size that won't fit into a collet. Takes me about ten seconds to change so it's not a big deal.
Click to expand...

Are you saying the drill chuck is crap?
Or the thing can't drill an accurate hole?
 
Yes and yes. I would at least visually compare the runout in the collet versus the chuck. Mine is a night and day difference but yours may be better. I bought mine used so it may also have been better when new. Can't say. My next upgrade is going to be an Albrecht.
 
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