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- Apr 17, 2009
- Messages
- 627
Great thread guys. I've been looking for a mini mill myself. Great links.
Thanks
-M
Thanks
-M
-
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Mini mill recommendations
- Thread starter Jsteele
- Start date
Have you seen this primer, The Home Machinist's Handbook? I just came across it at the library. Seems a pretty good basic intro to machining. It's geared toward the home hobbyist like clock makers and gunsmiths, etc. The fella uses both a Sherline lathe and Sherline mill for all his tutorials.
http://www.amazon.com/Home-Machinists-Handbook-Doug-Briney/dp/0830615733/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300413765&sr=1-1-catcorr
Apparently there is another Sherline based text, Tabletop Machining, that's supposed to be pretty good too, but I haven't seen it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0966543300/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Phil... thank you for all your helpful links. I am leaning more and more to the Sherline mill.
I use the Grizzly G0463 mill, and G4000 lathe.
I've been a machinist for about 20 years, and I can say that the G0463 is the smallest machine I still consider "capable" for most general machining tasks. Not to say the smaller machines are worthless, just that this machine is big enough to be somewhat rugged, and small enough to fit on a bench.
Another HUGE advantage is that it uses R8 collets, which are extremely common, and are available in many different configurations. That means you can easily mount big boy sized toys on your spindle, whereas smaller machines limit you to tiny end mills.
This is my setup as of a couple months ago.
I've been a machinist for about 20 years, and I can say that the G0463 is the smallest machine I still consider "capable" for most general machining tasks. Not to say the smaller machines are worthless, just that this machine is big enough to be somewhat rugged, and small enough to fit on a bench.
Another HUGE advantage is that it uses R8 collets, which are extremely common, and are available in many different configurations. That means you can easily mount big boy sized toys on your spindle, whereas smaller machines limit you to tiny end mills.
This is my setup as of a couple months ago.
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2002
- Messages
- 5,703
I got the same model as Page (sunshadow) and I love it. :thumbup:
I use the Grizzly G0463 mill, and G4000 lathe.
I've been a machinist for about 20 years, and I can say that the G0463 is the smallest machine I still consider "capable" for most general machining tasks. Not to say the smaller machines are worthless, just that this machine is big enough to be somewhat rugged, and small enough to fit on a bench.
Another HUGE advantage is that it uses R8 collets, which are extremely common, and are available in many different configurations. That means you can easily mount big boy sized toys on your spindle, whereas smaller machines limit you to tiny end mills.
This is my setup as of a couple months ago.
Thank you iandh.. considering you are a machinist and i am a beginner with no experience. Can you recommend any accessories to buy with the Grizzly G0463? I notice the Sherline doesnt have a R8 collet. I will be using a mill for knife making purposes only. Thanks again
Certainly. In fact, let me try and make my shop somewhat presentable, and I'll snap some pics of the tooling I have for the mill. You don't have to make a gigantic investment to be very well outfitted on this machine.
Ok, this is just real quick to get you going, once I clear off the tornado damage, I can get everything laid out and easier to see.
This shows most of the tools you'll need to do basic work, although some you won't use all the time.
Here we have,
-Parallel set. Used for positioning parts at different working heights in the vise, parallel to the mill bed or vise base. Also can some in handy as spacers and other things. Typically hardened steel, and meant to be precision tools.
-123 or ABC blocks, not a necessity, but handy sometimes for setup and fixturing.
-Precision squares. Just plain handy, and make fixturing parts much easier... plus they're nice to use around the shop.
-Center/spot drills. Used for marking hole centers, and also can be used to make detents for set screws.
-Fly cutters. Used for flattening large areas on a part. This is pretty much a must if you intend to use a mill for knifemaking.
-Machinist's rule and protractor. Used for layout, often marked in 50'ths or 100'ths. Invaluable.
-Centering tool/edge finder. Used to locate zero on the part. Not really necessary for many operations, but still good to have on hand.
-R8 collets, and various end mills. This collet set goes from 1/8 to 3/4. Pretty much covers the full range of this mill's capabilities.
NOT SHOWN
-Fixturing kit... basically a bunck of t-slot nuts, threaded rods, and clamps, used for fixturing parts to the table.
-Hand Scribe. Used to scribe lines on parts for reference during machining.
-Automatic center punch. Used to mark the center of scribed holes, to drill accurately
-Digital caliper (analog is also fine). Used for spot checking and semi-precision measurement of part's dimensions.
-Height gage/scribe. GREAT tool for knifemaking, and general layout. Used to scribe lines at a given height on parts. Must be used on a flat, stable surface. Can't live without.
-Magnetic base dial indicator. Can't have enough of these around. Used for precise measurement of actual part or tool position. Also used to make vise and fixtures parallel with mill way travel.
-Self-reversing tap head. Not necessary, but great to have.
-R8 Adjustable boring head. Allows you to make perfect circular holes anywhere from 1/4" up to several inches, with accuracy of .001" or better.
-R8 Drill chuck adapter. Allows the mill to be used as a precision drill press.
Here's the current state of my mill. I have a 4" precision vise attached, which is the perfect size for this mill (IMO). You can also mount a 5 or 6", but this one fits great.
In addition to this stuff, you'll need to have an assortment of quality drills. Most of all of this can be had for fairly cheap, especially if you bargain shop.
Let me know if you have any questions or need clarification, and I'll help as best I can.
This shows most of the tools you'll need to do basic work, although some you won't use all the time.
Here we have,
-Parallel set. Used for positioning parts at different working heights in the vise, parallel to the mill bed or vise base. Also can some in handy as spacers and other things. Typically hardened steel, and meant to be precision tools.
-123 or ABC blocks, not a necessity, but handy sometimes for setup and fixturing.
-Precision squares. Just plain handy, and make fixturing parts much easier... plus they're nice to use around the shop.
-Center/spot drills. Used for marking hole centers, and also can be used to make detents for set screws.
-Fly cutters. Used for flattening large areas on a part. This is pretty much a must if you intend to use a mill for knifemaking.
-Machinist's rule and protractor. Used for layout, often marked in 50'ths or 100'ths. Invaluable.
-Centering tool/edge finder. Used to locate zero on the part. Not really necessary for many operations, but still good to have on hand.
-R8 collets, and various end mills. This collet set goes from 1/8 to 3/4. Pretty much covers the full range of this mill's capabilities.
NOT SHOWN
-Fixturing kit... basically a bunck of t-slot nuts, threaded rods, and clamps, used for fixturing parts to the table.
-Hand Scribe. Used to scribe lines on parts for reference during machining.
-Automatic center punch. Used to mark the center of scribed holes, to drill accurately
-Digital caliper (analog is also fine). Used for spot checking and semi-precision measurement of part's dimensions.
-Height gage/scribe. GREAT tool for knifemaking, and general layout. Used to scribe lines at a given height on parts. Must be used on a flat, stable surface. Can't live without.
-Magnetic base dial indicator. Can't have enough of these around. Used for precise measurement of actual part or tool position. Also used to make vise and fixtures parallel with mill way travel.
-Self-reversing tap head. Not necessary, but great to have.
-R8 Adjustable boring head. Allows you to make perfect circular holes anywhere from 1/4" up to several inches, with accuracy of .001" or better.
-R8 Drill chuck adapter. Allows the mill to be used as a precision drill press.
Here's the current state of my mill. I have a 4" precision vise attached, which is the perfect size for this mill (IMO). You can also mount a 5 or 6", but this one fits great.
In addition to this stuff, you'll need to have an assortment of quality drills. Most of all of this can be had for fairly cheap, especially if you bargain shop.
Let me know if you have any questions or need clarification, and I'll help as best I can.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2003
- Messages
- 4,817
I too am relatively new to knife making. I have yet to need mill though, what work is it needed for?
I only have a drill press and belt sander (delta 1x42) that is slowly dying
I only have a drill press and belt sander (delta 1x42) that is slowly dying
A mill is in no way necessary for knife making, but it can be great for stuff like squaring stock, material removal (bringing down the blade blank thickness), conditioning scales, that type of thing. It hardly would be the most used tool in a knifemaking shop IMO, but it still is just plain great to have on hand. These small mills are (relatively) inexpensive, and are well worth the money.
It can be a little daunting at first, but this stuff will soon be second nature.
Seriously... Thank you iandh it looks like i have a lot of homework to do
It can be a little daunting at first, but this stuff will soon be second nature.
Barry Clodfelter
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- May 29, 2007
- Messages
- 578
I have been looking at all the recommendations for mini mills and there seem to be quite a few who like the Sherline mills. The one question I have about those mills are the weight. The shipping weight on them is mostly under 40 pounds. I am not a machinest but it seems that the heavier the mill it the more stable it is while under load. Are the Sherline mills rock solid under load? Just a side note I am looking at buying a mill in the very near future and Sherline is near the top of my list and I have never heard the solidness of the light mills answered. To the OP sorry for the hijack!
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Is there any advantage to the round column mills compared to the dovetailed columns?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category.aspx?key=480000
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category.aspx?key=480000
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
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- 6,212
i think you are thinking about the micro mill not the mini the mini is the smallest one i would even think about adn is about 80Lb i think like i said before it s agood little mill but it sure cant make big cuts
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2006
- Messages
- 211
Not sure but one disadvantage of round vs dovetailed is that if the head has to be raised or lowered it is very hard to keep it in the same plane.
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- 8,287
I just ordered a benchtop mill myself.
One thing to consider:
I had settled on a grizzly model but when I called, grizzly had NONE of the bench models in stock and no dates as to when they would get more in. The lady said that it could be late summer or fall before any showed up.
WHen I was researching all my options this came to be a regular thing with grizzly since 2002. Seems they get a few, sell out than have no idea when more are coming in.
This has been my experience with grizzly. Others may have had better luck ordering them.
One thing to consider:
I had settled on a grizzly model but when I called, grizzly had NONE of the bench models in stock and no dates as to when they would get more in. The lady said that it could be late summer or fall before any showed up.
WHen I was researching all my options this came to be a regular thing with grizzly since 2002. Seems they get a few, sell out than have no idea when more are coming in.
This has been my experience with grizzly. Others may have had better luck ordering them.
Not necessarily. The round columns can be more rigid, but they also can be a pain when you need to change the z-height more than the quill feed will allow. Someone else beat me to it, but that pretty much sums it up.
The sherlines are not really stable for this type of work. People use them as hobby mills, for cutting brass and aluminum castings for steam engines, that sort of thing.
If you were buying it just for bolsters and such, you'd probably be Ok.
When it comes to cutting steel, especially tool steels, even the much larger, nearly 400lb G0463 that I own can only take light cuts without chattering.
That's not to say it can't be done with a smaller endmill and light passes, but I'm just warning you not to expect too much from those little machines, even though they can be very useful at times.
That is a sad truth.
Out of the several sellers that rebadge minimills for sale, Grizzly is by far the best when it comes to support. They stock all, or nearly all of the component replacement parts for every machine they carry.
Replacement motor board for G063? Got it.
Replacement head way gib? Got it.
Replacement x-axis lead screw? Got it.
Because of this, the Grizzly models sell like wildfire. Normally the way people purchase them, is to pre-order, and wait until it arrives. It is quite similar to waiting for a quality custom maker to deliver a knife. You may wait forever, but you end up with a great knife, and great support.
There are, however, a couple other places that resell these machines, and you can still buy parts from Grizzly (just don't tell them that you don't own their version)