mini smith and wesson review... sort of (pics :D )

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Jun 22, 2003
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ontario_frontiersman_kabar_dagger_bm_bowie.jpg


the knives fromleft to right:
ontario frontiersman (spec plus line)
cksur2 (kabar style)
SWHRT9B (dagger)
busse combat terror monkey battle mistress
cksur6 (bowie)

the smith and wessons held quite a few suprises for me.

some of you were wondering what the tang to ricasso junction looked like, specifically if it was square or rounded - well you cant tell because the gaurd iis welded to the tang :(. to my eyes, it appears as though its perfectly square. thats taking into consideration that the part of the tang that inserts into the pommel is perfectly square.

on the cksur2 the handle breaks down by pushing out the pommel pin, and just pulling off the pommel and the kraton ( i assume its kraton ) tube. the gaurd is unremovable because its welded to the tang (wich seems like a horrible, horrible idea to me... but to remove it id have to scallop out that area, and thats almost less appealing).

its a sturdy knife, with a good sized handle for the overall size of the knife. it feels comfortable in the hand and the gaurd doesnt feel excessive at all. the balance point is right where the index finger rests on the handle.

one complaint about the kraton handles is that they are already messed up - and i havent even used the knives yet, i've just taken them out of there sheaths a few times. you can cut away the kraton with your fingernails.

the blade grinds are even, and honestly better then that of kabars. the hollow grinding of the saber grind makes it an alright cutter considering how low of a saber grind it is.

i would choose this over kabar if i had the choice (and i did - having owned a standard serrated 7" model from kabar)

sw_kabar.jpg

sm_kabar_handle_breakdown.jpg



the dagger is interesting for a few reasons - specifically the handle and the edge geometry.

the cutting edge has a very distink corner (thats rounded off) instead of being a smooth flowing curve. i dont know why this is, but its interesting. overall the blade feels very sturdy and stiff. the knife is almost feather weight at 7oz, but its heavy enough that you can still feel it in your hand, and the rubberized alluminum handle adds really nice grip.

the handle is interesting in that while its rubber, it has the alluminum backing making it feel much stonger and more durable then the full kraton used in the search and rescue series from s&w. again, for me, the handle size is almost idea.

the balance point is right on the index finger area of the handle.




the bowie... this thing suprised me a lot when i got it.

first was the handle. i normally dont like finger grooves, but on this they are very well placed for my hands. and the length of the handle combined with the finger groove set up makes it very easy to use in a choked down position (for better chopping power).

HOWEVER. the handle rattles. so thats crap (i'm going to replace it with micarta. if i didnt id probably grind off the tube fastener and fill the entire tang area and lanyard hole with epoxy.

its quite blade heavy, the balance point being right where the edge starts. wich i think is partly due to the large gaurd.

the thing thats kind of scary about the knife though is how thin they ground teh edge. is hollow ground, but its HEAVILY hollow ground, the area where the powder coat ends right above the cutting edge feels to be about half the thickness of a penny. because its saber ground, and 3/16 - the entire blade portion feels quite sturdy and durable, but the edge kind of seems like it would be prone to damage.

however, its one hell of a cutter. it sinks into wood better then any of the knives i have (khukuries go farther, but harder, this one kind of floats into the wood without much effort where as the khukuries kind of muscle there way in by force). being blade heavy, and ultra thin edged, it makes for an excellent knife and an excellent chopper, and its thin from tip to ricasso, being that the grind is very evenly done.

the sheaths for the search and rescue knives are basically a plastic box that has a large webbing strap runing along the front and back making a belt loop. inside the plastic box is 2 sets of round plastic, the ones on the spine being wider apart, and the ones near the edge being much closer - so that they both squeeze the blade appropriately without making it hard to draw. by pushing the blade back towards the spine, withdrawal is quite easy. overal a decent durable design, albiet a little big.

the pouch comes with a diamond hone box wich is awesome. i wish every knife sheath came with something like that. it makes a world of difference if you actually using it a lot but have nothing to sharpen it with.

all in all im really impressed with these knives considering that i paid (after shipping) 26$ for the cksur2, and 36$ for the cksur6, i consider it a bargain and an excellent deal. i have no problems with handing them to a non knife person to let them beat the crap out of them on camping trips, yet i would enjoy using them myself.


smbowie_bm.jpg

swbowie_bm_choils.jpg

sw_hollow_ground.jpg

sw_sheaths.jpg

zzzdsc02369.jpg
 
What are the two choil shots for? Is the knife on the left the Busse. Dinged up to hell and back...or serrated :)
I don't understand this shot.
Tom
 
its partially serrated. the serration patter looks like that because they dont line up on both sides, so you get a really bumpy appearence when you look at it looking down on the edge.

i took that to try to show the difference in how much metal is behind the edge, comparing busse's flat saber grind (from 3/16" stock) to the smith and wesson bowies deep hollow saber grind (from 3/16" stock). not sure if i got the effect i wanted... its really hard to show the hollow grind.

basically, if you look at where the cutting edge bevel of the busse starts, and where the cutting edge bevel of the bowie starts, the bowie is -half as thin as that of the busse.

the picture thats just a blurry line is a shot thats looking down the edge of the bowie, you can see that it goes from full thickness and scallops in leaving a good 1/2" back from the edge the thickness of a penny or less. its a reeeally thin grind compared to the other choppers i've handled. wich is nice, since i dont have anything like that :D

next thing for these is to bring them all down to 21 degree's.

after that it's new micarta handles for the search and rescue knives...
 
Thanks for the review and the very nice pics. The choil on the S&W looks like the most useless one I've ever seen... Nice though that it has a thin edge, but the hollow grind really ruins it for me. Construction seems to correspond to the price.
 
sw_bowie_tang.jpg


gaurd also welded to tang, and lanyard hole far off center for the bowie. however, the hole is 5/16" wich is odd - but it happens to be the one size of brake line tubing i have :D, so i get to use it when i remake the handle.

i do really wish that the gaurds werent tack welded on though, because i'd really like to know if theres a corner there so i can round it off (im sure there is one). but oh well.
 
ya... the choil doesnt really make much sense... i'd rather of had it just be straigh without anything there, just a large rectangular ricasso. i guess it kind of adds variance to the image though...
 
sorta interesting... just brought the bowie down to 21 degree's with a 3000 grit polish.

very easy sharpening, a little harder then the ontario frontiersman, but still very similar. only took about 15 minutes.

when sharpening on the higher polish levels, it had a bur that did not want to go away. wich is fine - but when i did a soft edge check chop on my desk (on the corner where i chop with all my freshly sharpened knives) the area immediately (on one light chop) dulled and created a noticable bur on both sides of the edge area that hit the wood.

noticable as in you could see it, and feel it both sides with your fingers, so it basically mashed down. all of wich basically shows that the steel is run reletively soft. im not going to give a hardness estimate because i wouldnt know where to put it on the scale. soft enough that at 21 degree's with a high polish (once the bur has been removed), it will mash down with a light chop on wood.

once i do the handle mod, i'll really use it hard on some 2x4's out back.
 
SethMurdoc said:
you can cut away the kraton with your fingernails.

I never liked it for long term use, it breaks down, gets gummy. The CS grips are just overlays and they break off from the handle, Fallkniven does a better job, but it still tears pretty easily. Your is the worse description I have seen though.

its HEAVILY hollow ground

Interesting, I wonder if that is semi-standard or you just got one much deeper than normal. Can you contact anyone and ask them about the spec'ed geometry?

-Cliff
 
honestly i wouldnt be suprised if this was a standard grind for it... while it is a completely different set up for the blade then i would have ever expected, i've handled other knives that were as thinly ground at the edge, just never one so large.

i probably could, but i work 2 jobs, and its difficult to find enough free time to do even whats present here... i finally sharpened that set of knives this weekend after having wanted to do it for 6 months...
 
went to the cutlery store and it looks like this is the standard grind for this model.

also bought a micrometer set :). here is a break down of the edge to spine thickness. it is measured 3/4" back from the end of the full thickness area of the spine (before it starts to taper into the tip). the distance is from the cutting edge, going towards the spine of the knife.

1/16" - .030 (at the end of the cutting edges bevel,where the powder coat starts)
1/8" - .031
1/4" - .035
3/8" - .043
1/2" - .060
5/8" - .089
3/4" - .110
7/8" - .139
1" - .179
1 1/8" - .220 (full thickness at the spine)


from that you can kinda see that the hollow grind leaves the edge thin for a pretty good amount of the grind, then curves into full thickness near the top of the grind.

its an interesting knife... im not sure how well it would hold up against knots and pebles/rocks and other hard objects and stresses (i dont think taylor cutlery's 440c is the strongest steel/heat treat combo out there), but the geometry makes it quite proficient...
 
also worth noting is that the place i was measuring at is 3/4" back from the widest part of the main grind.

when you measure near the ricasso, it starts out at .039, and the grind is shorter, so it progresses to .220 more quickly. near the ricasso is more of what i would expect a hollow ground knife like this to be - in that it is more of a constant curve.

when you get near the widest point in the grind, all of the curve is on the top area near the spine, and it sort of flattens to .030-.040 for a good distance right above the cutting edge, making the knife feel almost excessively thin...

obviously there are benefits to this, in that it is a blade heavy knife that is very thin edged, but because its taylor cutlery, 440c, and from what i've seen not all that hard... having that much of the grind near the edge be that thin makes me think that it will perform poorly if it ever has to come up against hard immobile objects...

(great for the light yard work im going to use it for though (like cutting palm tree branches)



also, for reference, the battle mistress thats shown here starts at .056 at the end of the cutting edges bevel, where the powder coat starts. it is assymetically ground on the cutting edge, so how it performs in actuall cutting will be slightly different, but were it v ground, the thicknes behind the bevel would be the same.

slightly misleading there.... thats at 1/8" from the cutting edge itself... the measurements in the same distances as were taken on the bowie, for the battlemistress =

1/16" - .036
1/8" - .056

so while at 1/16" they are similar, it gets fat real quick comparatively...
 
Thanks for the details, I like that type of grind on some utility knives, but I would not want it on large chopping knives. Have you worked this in any thick woods, getting 1-2" of penetration? Many of the hollow grinds I have seen will wedge badly there.

-Cliff
 
wow... that kinda sucked.

went and used it on some seasoned 2x4's, and then some very well seasoned (about 7 years) red oak.

the binding on the red oak was almost immediate, and pretty bad. but the thing that sucks is that the edge rippled on the 2x4's. the effect was essentially a set of burs that went both left and right. were i to continue using it, im sure it would just get worse. i only hit the 2x4's about 10 times, and the oak log about 5, just the weight of my arm, not heavy blows at all.

i've already brought it down to 21 degree's, so i would have expected to have sharpened awayany dead metal. we'll see what happens later on once i've sharpened it again...
 
SethMurdoc said:
...... continue using it, im sure it would just get worse.

Yeah, it would keep moving and either crack or tear, tears look wild the first time you see them.

i've already brought it down to 21 degree's ...

Per side, or included? Heat treats are really inconsistent on the low end knives, they go all over the place from way to weak to way too brittle.

Hollow grinds can bind badly on various woods, I did a serious session with a PAB and had to actually cut it out of the wood at times. Way to inefficient for serious work.

R.J. Martin runs a hollow grind on a large chopper and I have heard excellent reports on that, that would be a nice way to spend a few hours in the woods.

-Cliff
 
21 per side, so at 42 included its not all that thin of an edge. it was leather stropped and all - but it shouldnt rippled on the first 2 blows to a 2x4.

one more random side note - the powder coat on these... not so good. anywhere where there is writing or a logo - when you put tape on it (i did for sharpening), the tape will peal the powder coat off. not sure if the surface prep was not ideal for the powder coat, the powder coat is to thin, or the powder coat is too brittle - but it comes off rather easily.
 
Yeah, that is really obtuse, about 15 per side I find is necessary for harder wood work, dipping under that takes skill to avoid knot damage in really energetic edge impacts, but at ~20 degrees perside you should be able to go silverback with no concerns.

-Cliff
 
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