Mini x42 autoclip has horrible alignment when closed

C

Carl64

Joined
Apr 3, 2005
Messages
1,830
When the blade is open, it's pretty good. When its closed, the back end of the lock piece sticks out about 1/16". It's sharp and it looks like crap.

Does anyone have a mini x42 that lines up when its closed, or all of them like this?
 
Robbie Roberson said:
Mine lines up perfect,
Click to expand...

Good, there is hope then.

Was it like that when you got it ?

Robbie Roberson;)
Click to expand...

Heh heh, yeah, it's still a virgin. I just picked it up yesterday. I avoided it previously because I don't like tantos and I assumed it also had a thick edge. When I saw it in person I realized the edge was rajor thin, and decided I could live with a tanto since the steel was amazing and the bevel did it justice. Plus they had it discounted and I paid only just over $40. :)

I shouldn't say it looks like crap. It actually looks really nice except for the obvious thing (somehow I missed it when purchasing a boat load of stuff).
 
That happens sometimes, you could fix it if you could get the center pin out, all you would have to do is hit the sharp edge of lock sticking out in a downward angle with a de-burr wheel or sander. Pop it back in and your ready to go.

I have fixed many other brands this way, the only problem is sometimes the center pin won't come out unless you grind the head off with a dremel, I have cut many center pins with an old fashioned razor blade inserted between handles and backspring, one slip though and you have a notch cut into your handles :eek: .

The problem is usually the lock where the blade and lock are ground to match up. This means it fits a little too far into the lock, causing a rise on the rear of lock release.

SOG will take care of this I'm sure.

Robbie Roberson;)
 
I was considering just rounding off the lock bar sort of like that, but it would still annoy me. I would just remove the pivot screw and blade, and the lock bar will rotate past the pivot with a little wiggling.
 
Yes, you could do it that way, but if you wanted it to look even, then you would need to start your cutting down around pin hole.

It would be much simpler to just remove the pivot screw and rotate it up. You will need 2 allen heads because both sides are threaded with a threaded brass bushing in the middle.

I figured you would not want to just taper straight down because the back spring will still stick up some.

I know what you mean about something bugging you, I would go crazy by morning if mine were like that............:eek:

Good luck.

Robbie Roberson;)
 
I got the knife back today. SOG's solution was the same thing I could have done myself, which was grinding the back end of the lock bar so it is round and therefore the "corner" doesn't stick out. Now when it is closed the lock sort of bulges out. It still doesn't look too bad when open because there is a small length where the lock bar goes past the release cutout, so the rounded part only just barely becomes visible from the side.

I guess it works, but I was hoping some part like the blade or lock bar would be replaced so the whole thing looked new rather than mitigated. I know it's considered OK to "repair" things rather than replace them, but the knife was all pristine and untouched, not some old overused junker I would expect a "let's see what we can do to save it" treatment for.
 
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