Mirror polish finish folder

B

Busse

Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Messages
39
Hello. Many thanks in advance for any feedback, ideas, suggestions, and direction.

I'm looking to custom order a few folders. But what makes my ask different is that I am seeking mirror polish finish for all of them.

I have zero experience polishing blades (I barely polish my kitchen bench).

I'm thinking Benchmade Bugout, SOCP, or Adamas. Perhaps a Microtech Socom. Other ideas welcome.

I appreciate that these are not simply available and require custom work, time, and additional expense. I'm fine with all that. These are going to be safe queens so I am not in a rush.

Hope to hear back from you.

Cheers!
M
 
I've tried to polish a few knives in the past. The results were mostly horrible. One problem is many popular steels do not take well to polishing, S30V was particularly difficult if memory serves me. Also a mirror finish brings even minor imperfections into stark relief. GL

Grizz
 
Busse said:
Hello. Many thanks in advance for any feedback, ideas, suggestions, and direction.

I'm looking to custom order a few folders. But what makes my ask different is that I am seeking mirror polish finish for all of them.

I have zero experience polishing blades (I barely polish my kitchen bench).

I'm thinking Benchmade Bugout, SOCP, or Adamas. Perhaps a Microtech Socom. Other ideas welcome.

I appreciate that these are not simply available and require custom work, time, and additional expense. I'm fine with all that. These are going to be safe queens so I am not in a rush.

Hope to hear back from you.

Cheers!
M
Click to expand...
I’m able to do Mirror Polished edges but not quite figured out a way to do a full polish on the blade itself
 
dcb69db0-f423-4b38-83c0-59dc9aa4cbc2-jpeg.2506377


I’ve done a couple including the Spartan above which I also turned into a trailing point for a friend.

I used multiple fine grits of wet/dry sandpaper with oil and sanding blocks, then finished up with a full-sized buffing wheel.

Be aware that you probably won’t get good results without a proper buffer, and be aware that the process of buffing knives can easily injure/kill you if done incorrectly or carelessly.

Good luck!
 
scdub said:
dcb69db0-f423-4b38-83c0-59dc9aa4cbc2-jpeg.2506377


I’ve done a couple including the Spartan above which I also turned into a trailing point for a friend.

I used multiple fine grits of wet/dry sandpaper with oil and sanding blocks, then finished up with a full-sized buffing wheel.

Be aware that you probably won’t get good results without a proper buffer, and be aware that the process of buffing knives can easily injure/kill you if done incorrectly or carelessly.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

RIP Lucky Lee.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The ways to make buffer use less dangerous are:
Have a firm grip and a good stance.
Use a large wheel. 12" is much easier to buff on than a 6" wheel. There is a larger "safe" zone to work in.
Buff only in the safe zone between 3:00 and 5:00 ... with the wheel turning downward.

Never ever buff on the top or bottom of the wheel.

Wearing Kevlar buffing gloves is a good idea.


Note:
I said "less dangerous" in the opening line. There is really no way to make the buffer safer ... just less dangerous
Click to expand...
 
Busse said:
You've made me consider spending a lot of money today. Had no idea about this brand. Appreciate the heads up. My wallet doesn't. Cheers!
Click to expand...
If I had the urge to go big Ide get a Higo with the blue anodizing and black carbon fiber scales. I also like the ironwood version
 
600/800/1000/1500/2000 (sand in 90° cross hatch or 45° across to cut down the previous scratch pattern)

Diamond pastes there after on cotton wheels on either a dremel or other type of tool. Too much pressure you can orange peel a surface as well keep that in mind.

High speed polishing with a knife is not safe.

Or if you're feeling extra science'y... Chemical polishing.
 
Proper mirror polish is gonna take some time to achieve and results may even vary from steel to steel. I've tried hand polishing AUS-8 and it took a while, the steel wasn't even properly heat treated, so I imagine something like S30V and higher will take double if not longer time. The amount of material you're removing also depends on the finish of the blade you're starting off with. Using powertools is much faster of course, but also potentially very dangerous. You catch that tip on the buffing wheel and that thing goes flying in any random direction. I wouldn't bother unless there's an option the manufacturer can do it for me, but that will add significant cost as you already know.
 
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