Misch Metal Muddle!!

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william O

Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
96
I LOVE my Misch Metal fire steels I bought from goingear.com. Amazing sparks that seem to "thump" when they hit the ground. My problem (technique, I'm sure) is that I seem to develop ridges in the rod, which then makes it more difficult to throw sparks. I've tried to attach a picture to show (no luck). My guess is that when I first place the spine of my Mora on the rod, I'm striking to hard (I mean before I draw down the fire steel). Anyone see this before? I'm guessing that I need to use sand paper to flatten the surface to remedy the problem, and ease up on the force when I first make contact with the rod. Any other suggestions?

Edit: OK, I think I figured out the photo thing!
 

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Magnussen had a video a while back that showed GREAT form. You don't need to scrape this much to get a fire. You can hold the stick steady and scrape the bottom 1/4 to 1/2 inch to get a fire. Also you may want to practice moving the STICK to make sparks and not the striker as it tends to go too far and knock your tinder bundle apart.

TF
 
Some one also posted a video a while back about using these things one handed where the knife/striker was held against a solid object with the foot then the firesteel was scraped against it. I haven't tried this method yet but it looks much easier to control where the sparks go and you can get much closer to the tinder without worrying about breaking it ut ( like talfuchre said). You also get more sparks in your tinder because you're so close to it when striking.

David
 
There are some ferro rods, that the trick I use won't work on.


I just got a new rod from goinggear.com..... moahahaha

224424.jpg
 
That's an awesome firesteel. You could beat a deer into submission with it, then get the cook fire going!
 
These type of rods require a very sharp edge to create a spark.

They're not like regular ferro rods so technique is a factor for sure.

[youtube]oS8TJAXC9zQ[/youtube]
 
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Huh, that's a new one. I've never seen one develop ridges like that before. You mentioned that you hit/strike the rod as you scrape it? If so, I'm guessing that is the issue. Just place the spine on the blade and scrape away and you shouldn't have that issue.

Magnussen, you'll have to show us what you do with that firesteel for sure. I always wonder what on earth people do with a 12" firesteel.
 
storl said:
Magnussen, you'll have to show us what you do with that firesteel for sure. I always wonder what on earth people do with a 12" firesteel.
Click to expand...


I cut them into (3) 4 inchers and sell them at double the price you charge for (1) @ 12 inches!!!..... he he he.:p


Just kidding... not sure what I'm gonna do with this one.... most likely cut it down... but its a shame.


Rick
 
Even if ya have a 12" one you still need to know how to use it, my 1"er still gets the job done !!!!


P3130019.jpg


I wonder what the national average is.......I'd guess about 3" eh !!!!
 
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Rick is going to turn that Rod into a knife and generate a huge practical joke on Mistwalker :D


(Oops I spoiled it)
 
william O
It sounds like I have a similar rod, from a different vendor.

I, too, have ridges developing in the rod, from a variety of strikers, including hacksaw blades and a LMF striker.

I believe it is a result of the composition of these particular rods, with the higher magnesium content, than your "traditional" ferro rods. It's just how it removes the material from the rod - hence "globs of molten fire."

I just try to even out and rotate the rod to spread the wear.

I think Magnussen's vid is great, and am able to easily recreate his method of striking on my LMF ferro rod - not so with this Chinese origin misch metal one.

Also, slow hard pressure (that normally throws huge sparks on a ferro rod), simply shaves off material, like a Doans mag block - great for the whole pile of magnesium shavings bit. Similar results are had with a Corona shears sharpener.

Lighter pressure with a faster stroke produces adequate sparks, but it means I can't have my rod right next to the tinder - unless I pull back on a knife spine.
 
I get ridges on my LMF 3/8" firesteel with my Fallkniven F1 by moving the spine or moving the firesteel to strike along most of the length of the rod (haven't tried using Rick's method with the F1 yet).

IMG_3479.jpg


I'm guessing it's a technique thing too that I need to work on, but with the F1, I can throw sparks off a regular LMF that thump and bounce nearly as well as the sparks that come off the going gear type firesteels. I'm guessing that I'm using enough pressure on the firesteel to cause the F1 spine to scrape off relatively large chunks, which accounts for the robust sparks off a regular LMF firesteel. Any other scraper/spine I have used doesn't cause these ridges, but also doesn't throw sparks nearly as well as the F1.

I think it's a trade-off: if you strike lighter, you get a flat striking surface but less robust sparks; but if you strike hard you get awesome sparks but get a ridged striking surface as a result.

I'm looking forward to suggestions along with you William O :thumbup:
 
Looks like nothing more than plain old chatter marks to me. That just happens when one or both of either the cutting tool or the material being cut, filed or in this case scraped off are not held firmly and are able to move around. If they can move, and you are putting pressure on them, they will chatter.

Just like when you are filing something in a vise and you have it to high up and everytime you run the file across it, it makes a squealing sound. That's chatter and sometimes it leaves marks like you see here.

Nothing to panic about as long as it is just a fire steel and not a high dollar item you are trying to pretty up with file work.

Eat your Wheaties cowboy and hold everything as tight as you can, or just ignore it as it doesn't matter at all. Maybe try sticking the end of the fire steel against something hard while using it so you have more support and not just holding it freely in the air like I am sure you are doing now.

I myself never worry about it and some of mine have it to. It is not the steel and really it isn't the way you are doing it, just the lack of good support that makes those chatter marks.
 
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