Mnandi scales

M

MArathonman

Joined
Jul 5, 2009
Messages
264
Is it reasonable to make my own Mnandi scales?

I humbly consider myself between highly skilled and an expert woodworker. I don't see anything available that floats my boat right now. So I'm thinking of buying a cocobolo or walnut mnandi and making amboyna or rosewood burl or the like...

Is this a good or a dumb idea????

Thanks!
 
There are a number of people that rescale differnt knives, I would have the wood stabilized, the are kinda thin and could crack or get roughed up, stabilizing will help make them more durable.
 
If your confident in your skill, I don't see why not.
And yes, make sure to either buy the wood pre-stabilized or send it out for stabilizing.
 
I EDC a Mnandi...

Yes, you can make your own Mnandi scales, no big deal, they're quite simple. I think Reeves used something like VHB for attachment, though epoxy should work too.


Nate (I make a lot of scales for a lot of people)
 
Are´nt the scales on the Mnandi actually inlays?

I love the Mnandi btw. It´s been a huge influence on one of my folder designs.

Brian
 
Ive seen some mnandis with some decent wood, and believe in the whole "don't fix what's not broken", but most of the reeve inlays are plain, with no remarkably awesome woods. If you did make inlays, I would love to see them, and wish you the best of luck!
 
Not sure but it might void your CR Warranty, if you care about that you should check into it as well.
 
I forget the brand, but some of the production knife companies do the inlay with the wood held in place by double stick tape.
I was talking to one of the larger companies the other day and that is what I was told. He said it works great on inlays and does not weaken over time.
If I can find out or remember the brand name I will post it here in the forums.
 
I keep 3M-VHB in several thicknesses. It is amazingly strong and according to the paperwork, will not break down with age. The bond actually gets stronger for the first several months. Ebay is an excellent source for it, as are industrial adhesive suppliers.
This seller has it in nearly every bond grade and thickness.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-VHB-9473...736?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d62d59d0

Tips:
1) Everything has to be a dead flat fit. These sheets have adhesive from a few thousands to .100", so pick the right thickness for the job, and assure that the two surfaces meet perfectly.
2)Don't use the first 1/8" around the edges of the sheet. It may be less sticky due to the minute exposure to the air from the side.
3)Trim the sheet to a little oversize for the scale, remove one paper backing and place your scales in the center of the sheet. Rub gently from the paper side, then trim around with a fresh scalpel/#11 blade. The scale will have a perfectly fitted adhesive backing. Peel the second paper back and carefully place the scale on the knife tang. Get it right, as there is no moving it easily. Place it very gently and check the edges to see all is right ( not needed with an inlay) if all looks good, press down to assure a good bond. Rub all over with very firm pressure ( cotton gloves help prevent sore fingertips) for a while to make sure all the adhesive gets contact.
4) Set aside for a day or two to bond up strong.
5) If there will be grinding and shaping of the scales, use gentle pressure and avoid heat.
 
Thank You Stacy. Do you ever use it with any of your jewelry?
I am going to do a little experimenting with this stuff on some other projects.
 
Yes, I use it occasionally for mounting cabochons and some costume jewelry repairs. The bond is very strong........and instant.
 
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