Mobile smithy done. Any others out there?

P

peppen108

Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
663






After one year of gathering the parts it's up and running. Takes about 5 minutes to move out and set up and another 30 to heat up. And can be torn down in about 30 minutes waiting for the forge to cool. I love it!

Anybody else rocking a mobile smithy?
 
although not very compact mine is pretty mobile.. I typically do a forging demo at the local knife show every year.. Here is a pic of my rolling forge. It goes into my truck pretty easy.

forge.jpg
 
I didn't make it. A guy was making them years ago but I think he shut down operation before really gaining any traction. It is a really nice forge.
 
I have put the following into the trunk of a '97 Toyota Corolla: Black & Decker Workmate bench (collapsed), 2'x3' piece of plywood & concrete backer board, 2 brick forge, galvanized bucket (aka slack tub), 20# propane bottle, 5 gallon Homer bucket full of hammers & tongs, PPE (apron, gloves, eye protection), 100# HF ASO, steel, items for ITH, and various items shoved into any available space. The wooden anvil stand went to the back seat. When I built my Freon tank forge, it and the propane hoses also went to the back seat. Hauled it to multiple hammerin's.
 
It is a good idea to put most shop equipment that is not used daily on mobile carts. this has two functions. 1) is that they can be moved where you need them and then stored in a corner when not in use, and 2) is that they can be rolled outside the shop on a clear day and used in the fresh open air.

The welders carts and shop carts from HF, Northern, etc., are great for these jobs. Build the forge right on the cart top. Put Rockwell testers, sharpening setups, quench tanks, etc. on carts. The supplies for that tool can be stored on the shelves and bottom. These carts are always on sale for a very low price. the welders carts are surprisingly sturdy, and can be modified in assembly to make the top level and arrange the shelves differently.

A welders cart with two quench tanks strapped where the gas bottles would go will allow having a fast and slow oil availability. Put the gloves, tongs, and extra oil jugs on the shelves. Put fire bricks on the top ( it has a lip to keep them in place) and use it to set hot blades on.

An anvil can be made portable by putting it on a base with two 1.5" pipe sleeves on the side. When moving it, slide a "wheelbarrow" rig in the pipes. It is just a 10-12" wheel mounted between two 1" ipes and bent to fit through the 1.5" pipes. A couple clamps or pins keep the anvil from sliding too far forward. Pick it up by the handle ends and roll it out to the smithy like a barrow full of dirt. Even a 200#er can safely and easily be moved this way. Place the anvil as far forward toward the wheel as possible to maximize mechanical advantage.

Garden carts, like the one Pepin used, are good for hauling a couple hundred pounds of tools and steel out to the smithy...and putting it in the garage or shed at night.

Think of all the tools that could be cart mounted. If the tool needs to be solid in use, just clamp the cart against the workbench or a 4X4" post set in concrete if working outside.
Forges of all types
HT ovens
quench tanks
salt pots
Bench top drill presses
grinders
sanders
testers
sharpeners
small band saws
vises
clamping jigs
filing jigs
Leather work stations
Photos boxes and light units
A pimped out cooler and snack box ( keeps the bugs and grinding grit off your brewskies and Fritos.
 
A new permanent fixture in my shop is a grocery shopping cart that I bought when the pharmacy next door went under. It'll hold 300 lbs. of steel no problem, and unlike the garden cart it easily maneuvers through the shop. The full wire cage of it makes it easy to see things on the bottom or blow the dust out of forges from every angle.
 
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