Modded knives (Real Steel and Benchmade) - price drops

[nbruch]

First, although to sell these I purchased the correct membership, I am not a business and don't consider myself a "knifemaker, craftsman, or service provider," just someone trying to have some fun. If you purchase one and feel I misrepresented it or are really disappointed in quality versus price when you see the work in person, I'd be happy to take it back (we'd each lose shipping and I might also lose PP fees, but that's all).

With that out of the way, I will be listing four knives total:

Benchmade 761 Ti Monolock - $185
Real Steel H6 Blue Sheep - $70
Real Steel E571 Sea Eagles (two) - $65 each
(Prices include PP fees and shipping, U.S sales only - feel free to make offers)​

All knives come with original boxes, etc. Real Steels have original edges.

First up is the Benchmade 761 Ti Monolock, $185. This is the full size version (3.73" M390 blade). This knife was a first edition and has now been sharpened twice. Had the normal snail trails and also some scratches on blade (I can provide photos of before if you need). I decided to hand sand the blade to 600 grit. In the process, of course, all markings were rubbed off. Wasn’t easy on the already hardened blade and I see some small flaws, but the flaws are not easily noticeable (I am very critical of myself and see them, some others say I'm too picky). Worst case, consider it a hand-rubbed blade you can feel happy to use and not worry about scratching. For the scales, I rubbed them down with a scotchbrite pad which removed most marks and made it a somewhat glossier, silvery look than the original matte gray. Everything else about the knife is great - centering, lockup (adjustable when needed), sharpness, firm détente, etc. I really like the quality of this knife and think it's an underrated knife.

 

[nbruch]

Next is the Real Steel Blue Sheep, $70. Blade is 3.74" Sandvik 14C28N. I have another Real Steel with this steel and am pretty impressed with it for an EDC knife. Runs on bronze and Teflon washers. The mods on this one are just the scales. I used a glossy carbon fiber (true, full depth CF, not a laminate). On the show side, I hand fit a G10 insert with jigged texture. The insert sits proud of the CF. There is no epoxy holding it - the hole in the CF is beveled and the G10 side is beveled so it can’t come out the front. I was worried epoxy might seep out the seam, and since there is no movement at all, the seam has no noticeable gaps, etc, I preferred to leave it as is. It took a long time to hand fit, and although the rear that you don't see is not a perfect flush fit between the G10 and CF, from the outside, you see no gaps. First time trying this and happy with how it came out. Not necessarily planned, but as one photo shows, I think it's kinda neat how light passes through the G10 and the holes in the liners to light up three circles inside the knife. All functional aspects of the knife are fine (centering, lockup, etc).

 

[nbruch]

Third is a Real Steel Sea Eagle, $65. Stainless steel frame, 3.375" Sandvik 14C28N blade, 4.125" closed length, and bearings. This first one has a hand (with rotary tool) carved design on the show side with some acid washing in that area to make it a little darker and more matte. The rest of the frame was buffed with a scotchbrite pad to make it glossier. This finish has fine, random "scratches" throughout so it's not uniform, but, I think it will be easy to "refinish" any time you like as it's pretty simple to do. In the centering and lockup photos, you can just see how there are a few spots on the lower edge of the frame that got "dulled" a bit by the acid fumes from the design area. Not a big deal, but wanted to point it out. Everything else about the knife is stock and functions as such.

 

[nbruch]

The second Real Steel Sea Eagle, $65. I did work on both scales of this one. Faux front and rear bolsters were created. The lines were done with hand files, texturing with a rotary tool. In trying to make it more "interesting," I decided to make the lines for the bolsters go at an angle on the edges of the scales. Learned this (and the pre-hardened stainless scales) made it much harder to make the sides perfectly symmetric with each other using hand files, so you may notice they are NOT perfectly matched from side to side. In the lockup/centering photo you can see it's not terrible, but not right on so don't expect that. After the file work, I used acid to darken the bolsters and also add some random "texturing" in the middle portion. In the process of acid washing, the safety lock button got a bit messed up. It still functions if you want to use it (I don't use them), but, the sliding action is a bit "gritty." Other than that, everything else is great.

 

[nbruch]

Price drops on all.