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Modding the C.S. Spike Hawk

hawkhead

hawkhead

Joined
Aug 13, 2008
Messages
1,277
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I wanted to post these photos and did not wait to get paracord to wrap the haft.
 
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..........Now you made me want one.

Can you describe what exactly you did to this because it looks AMAZAZING!
 
Thank you, Kenny H. for kind words.
In a nutshell:
1. I used Strip Klean to remove the paint.
2. Marked the centerline down the length of the blade and spike.
3. Drew the design of the hawk on the blade.
4. Removed unwanted metal with files.
5. Stones and emery used to smooth the surface of the blade and spike once desired shape was attained.
6. Degrease and warm wash the head.
7. J.B Weld the screw hole.
8. Shape and finish the haft making certain there are no gaps between wood and steel.
9. Finish the head where the J.B. Weld has cured.
10. Repeat step 6.
11. I used Brownell's Alumahyde II. I sprayed to give just a hint of a texture.
12. Tight friction fit the head to haft and wrap the haft with whatever material you like.
Everything on the Warhawk was done by hand. I have a bench grinder but did not use it on this hawk. I used only files, stones and emery.
Good luck with you project. Lots of patience and attention to detail will give you the results you want. Don't forget to post your pics.
John (Hawkhead)
 
Friggin' beautiful.

Why the rounded top edge?
Not a criticism, just like to hear people's thought process.
 
I have seen heads shaped in a similar manner. I made mine a little more pronounced in order to give a slightly extended cutting edge. Also, the blade has been thinned. When viewed from the top, the blade now has a straight taper.
I'm working on another Spike Hawk now. The design is completely different. It is an American Indian influenced head (I don't copy). There are some design elements that in their severity and simplicity, reinforce the principle " form follows function".
Everytime I look at the next C.S. hawk project, I try to visualize my ideas inside it and then my task is remove the metal to uncover my hawk. I am not a metalsmith. Perhaps someday I will learn the art of metal forging. For now, I just remove the excess and modify.
 
Very nice indeed, I really like the finish. :thumbup: How much length did you take off the spike?
 
The rounded top edge is a serious design flaw IMO. While it does look flashy, it doesn't add functionality instead increases the chances of glancing. That's also the problem I have with the Winkler/Sayoc hawks.

Other than that it looks pretty good.


Ookami
 
I do not intend to throw this hawk at an opponent or use it as a wood axe. IMO a blow from the razor sharp convex edge or spike would inflict a miserable wound. Prior to finishing the head I destroyed a 2 ft. piece of pressure treated 2x6. Works for me. This was a one off piece. My next hawks are more traditionally styled fighters. Thanks for your input.
 
Ookami said:
The rounded top edge is a serious design flaw IMO. While it does look flashy, it doesn't add functionality instead increases the chances of glancing. That's also the problem I have with the Winkler/Sayoc hawks.

Other than that it looks pretty good.


Ookami
Click to expand...

Blaming the tool for a user's mistake is a fool's game. I'd say the fat belly that edge has would create deeper cuts.
 
Ookami said:
The rounded top edge is a serious design flaw IMO. While it does look flashy, it doesn't add functionality instead increases the chances of glancing. That's also the problem I have with the Winkler/Sayoc hawks.

Other than that it looks pretty good.


Ookami
Click to expand...

It depends on your uses. If you want to throw it, then the top radius sucks.

However, if this is your primary fighter (i.e. not the one you're going to throw away), the top radius has a bit of use. A rounded corner like that will slice better than a squared off end, and make for a nastier cutting wound without getting hung up like a squared off end might.

Now, if you sharpen about 3/4" of the beard as well. . .:D
 
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