Modern Alternative to the 110?

The Crooked River and mini crooked River are just about the perfect modern equivalent to the 110 and 112. I have the mini crooked river, great knife, perfect updated version of the 110/112 , perfect in every way, except one.....it is not a 110/112. This probably doesn't matter to most, but if you really like Buck 110 and 112's like I do, it just doesn't feel the same, it just doesn't feel right being in the deer woods with it instead of a Buck 110 or 112. It cost me $200 dollars to figure that out.
 
jec88 said:
The Crooked River and mini crooked River are just about the perfect modern equivalent to the 110 and 112. I have the mini crooked river, great knife, perfect updated version of the 110/112 , perfect in every way, except one.....it is not a 110/112. This probably doesn't matter to most, but if you really like Buck 110 and 112's like I do, it just doesn't feel the same, it just doesn't feel right being in the deer woods with it instead of a Buck 110 or 112. It cost me $200 dollars to figure that out.
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Good post, I felt the same way when I pick one up. Nice knives but as you say not a Buck 110 or 112. Preston
 
I wonder if Buck could or would modify a standard brass 110 to use the 30th BCCI riveted lock bar, t-nuts and interchangeable covers, and what the conversion would cost.
I'd send in at least one of mine.
 
View attachment 1012451 The goocher for such a modification would be machining an octagonal recess in the right hand handle to immobilize the T-nut. I suspect that the recess on the 30 yr. knife is shaped in the molding process. It’s hard to broach a short blind hole. Also notice that the T-nut has a tapered shoulder and the recess has a coresponding taper.
 
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David Martin said:
Lenny Lenny , Buck recently mfg. a 110 w/ screwed together construction. It is more of a dress knife and user feedback may not be forthcoming. Still, the door is now opened and we may see more of this type manufacturing. DM
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It may look like a dress knife, but I would argue that the screw together construction is more robust than the riveted construction. On a standard 110, only the pivot rivet is headed, The other 3 rivets depend upon the friction between the rivets and the holes to hold the knife together. I much prefer the T-nut method of preventing axial movement. It’s like a rivet with heads.
In the standard 110 construction, the blade play (or lack of it) is controlled by the width of the pivot bushing relative to the blade width. If for any reason the handle plates are spread, the plates no longer squeeze the bushing and play develops. The T-nut allows precise adjustment of the gap in which the blade travels.
In the 186 Titanium, the pivot screw allows the squeezing of the pivot bushing. Slack can be taken up, but once the bushing is squeezed, there is no further adjustment. If the blade wiggles, you have to grind material off the bushing or find a fatter blade. If the blade is tight, you have to grind material off the blade or find a fatter bushing.
 
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I guess I should add, although I can't comment on the quality, for a few years now Kabar makes a Folding Hunter that looks like a dark 110 skinny clone with pocket clip (tip down), thumbstud, jimping, and screw together construction. I also have a gifted engraved Browning 111 Series knife which feels great in hand, but the engraved blade and custom scales make it too pretty to use. I've wanted to get a normal one to add to my collection/EDC rotation for awhile, but I never get around to it. The Browning 111 Series is screwed together construction, mid lockback, and comes in both drop point and clip point blade shapes (3.25"):
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street soldier said:
I would say that Buck has covered the modern version with the release of the Slim models, either select or pro. With a thumbstud and pocket clip, along with the lighter weight, it has definitely modernized the classic 110.

John
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I coudnt agree more.
 
Sacrilege ….. Well generally in the past, posting info from other companies offerings was considered a line in the sand on the Buck Factory sponsored forum. But, the world is a different place from several years ago.
I took the OP to first want opinions of other Bucks that are almost as good as 110's but with different advantages ? Say like a S30v large Vantage ? Or David's 334s or GSA's 317s. Yes, those two are discontinued but can be found.
300Bucks
 
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300Bucks said:
Sacrilege ….. Well generally in the past, posting info from other companies offerings was considered a line in the sand on the Buck Factory sponsored forum. But, the world is a different place from several years ago.
I took the OP to first want opinions of other Bucks that are almost as good as 110's but with different advantages ? Say like a S30v large Vantage ? Or David's 334s or GSA's 317s. Yes, those two are discontinued but can be found.
300Bucks
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Ditto
 
For my two cents, the 110 keeps its “110” identity with changes such as steel and scale materials. And the custom work done by factory or artisans.

Adding a thumb stud is traditional, in the sense that the owner made his knife better for his use. But some folks consider this a non traditional thing.

At some point, too many changes make it a different model; and that’s why this thread exists.

Two of my favorite “modern” alternatives to the 110:

f0p5pj.jpg
 
tiguy7 said:
View attachment 1010566 View attachment 1010568 View attachment 1010569 View attachment 1010570 View attachment 1010571 The BCCI 30th Anniversary Aluminum 110 is held together by a pivot T-nut and screw set, and by 2 T-nut and screw sets in the butt end. The center of the knife is riveted together with a single rivet joining the handle slabs with the rocker sandwiched in between. The rivet ends are covered by the removable handle inserts. 5 variations of inserts were offered (Ironwood, white Ivoroid, Olive drab linen Micarta, Natural linen Micarta, and Charcoal G-10). The blade needs no bushing, and it can be squeezed between the handle slabs by tightening the pivot screw. Blue LocTite will maintain the adjustment.
The pivot T-nut is immobilized by an octagonal head which fits in an octagonal recess in the right handle slab. The tail end T-nuts are immobilized by their D shapes which key into D shaped holes in the spring holder.
The knife can use any 110 blade including the “old” Selector styles. The knife is the same thickness a regular 110 but weighs only 4.5 oz.
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Would love to see something like this become regular production. Maybe provide an optional pocket clip that can be screwed into the holes at the butt-end of the handle for those who don't want sheath carry.
 
MaxFisher said:
Would love to see something like this become regular production. Maybe provide an optional pocket clip that can be screwed into the holes at the butt-end of the handle for those who don't want sheath carry.
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The holes at the butt end of the handle are pretty widely spaced, and the T-nuts are D-shaped in cross section, so a special clip would be needed. I prefer a tip down carry, so I am going to drill and tap an Aluminum 30yr. knife and install a standard clip like the one in the photo. The only drawback is having to remove the clip to change the blade.View attachment 1019183
 
tiguy7 said:
The holes at the butt end of the handle are pretty widely spaced, and the T-nuts are D-shaped in cross section, so a special clip would be needed. I prefer a tip down carry, so I am going to drill and tap an Aluminum 30yr. knife and install a standard clip like the one in the photo. The only drawback is having to remove the clip to change the blade.View attachment 1019183
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I like the picture clip better and I'd be all for that. The only reason I thought of using the butt-end holes is to not add extra holes for those who would want to carry clipless.
 
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