Modification questions.

[Nemo1775]

I am curious about a few things. I am thinking about modifying one of my Triceratops knives, I saw the photo of the triceratops tang without the handle and it looks like it would work very well as a light weight, cord wrapped CQB blade.

My thoughts are to drill out the bolsters and replace them with chicago screws so the handle scales will be easily removed so that I can use the knife as a spear if desired, or cord wrap the tang for a slimmer back up knife. I could even try my hand at handle making and make new scales to try out.

My questions are:

-Are the scales epoxied on or just held by tube fasteners?

-The knife was cerakoted by Blown Deadline, is this typically done prior to scales being installed (is the whole tang painted under the scales?)

-Are aluminum barrel screws sufficient for replacing the tube fasteners or should I be looking for stainless?

-For those bold, modders who have gone down this road before, are there any questions I haven't asked that I should, or pitfalls I may not know to look out for?

Many thanks.

 

[duramax]

Your knife is most likely coated underneath. As the handle scales are uncoated from the mothership. I’ve never done it but there are a few threads on removing the scales.
If you use the search option I’m sure you’ll find them. I’ve read McMasters (?) sells hardware to reattach the scales.
Hope this helps some, I’m sure others will be along with more experience with this.

 

[jeepin]

Those are hollow tube fasteners not bolsters. That’s a completely different thing.

 

[Nemo1775]

Those are hollow tube fasteners not bolsters. That’s a completely different thing.

You are correct, I used the wrong term. Regardless of the name they can still be removed, carefully.

(Edited my original post to use correct terminology, thanks.)

 

[David Mary]

Buy a cheap blank as a hobby knife. After you scuff it all up you will be glad you chose this route.

 

[David Brown]

As someone who has taken scales off and re-tubed them quite a few times.

Know that you are voiding the warranty on whatever you modify

****first and foremost, clamp the knife down, use the drill press vice before drilling out the tubes****
I have seen the aftermath of someone that just held it with their hands.

Deadly helicopter

Usually the tubes Busse uses are stainless they used to be brass long ago.

1/4" drill bit will usually get it done

Go slow drill a little at a time.

Knife supply places usually have the bolts to use when re-attaching.

I use both Brass and stainless tubing (again knife kits or another knife supply place will have tubes)

All of the scales I have taken off (about 10 or 15 sets) did not have any glue or epoxy holding them on.
Just the mechanical attachment of the tubes.

Now if you want to replace with tubes, that is the hard part.

I had custom tube flare dies made about 12 years ago to handle the different wall thickness of some tubes.

Most recent handle job, I added the red liners;



smaller diameter brass tubes on a pink g-10 handle job for Mrs. Brown

 

[Volk]

...
Know that you are voiding the warranty on whatever you modify

****first and foremost, clamp the knife down, use the drill press vice before drilling out the tubes****
I have seen the aftermath of someone that just held it with their hands.

Deadly helicopter...

Holly mother...I can't believing that needed to be said...

Yet here we are if it happened...

Also not that I planning on doing that, but didn't know that voided warranty. I mean it makes perfect sense...and you wouldn't expect it from any other company.

 

[willmtn1]

Thread 'Battle Grade FSH rusting under scales'

Feb 16, 2024

Hey! I picked up this Battle Grade Fusion Steel Heart the other day and it appears to be rusting underneath the cerakote/scales. See pics -






I threw the FSH in my friends sandblaster and gave it hell for 15 minutes - it came out looking like this. The rust is cleaned up and it looks like there is some faint pitting where the rust was the worst.







I'm guessing underneath the scales the rust is pretty bad? Anyone been here before?

• willmtn1
• Replies: 67
• Forum: Busse Combat Knives

• 

I documented some work on a Busse knife in this thread.

Good luck!

 

[resinguy]

I would be concerned about aluminum screws having enough shear strength.

 

[Nemo1775]

Buy a cheap blank as a hobby knife. After you scuff it all up you will be glad you chose this route.

Sound advice. I have a few inexpensive knives around. I could play around with re-handling them until I get the hang of it.

 

[Nemo1775]

I would be concerned about aluminum screws having enough shear strength.

Good point. I am no metalurgist but I do prefer to use the right components for the job.

 

[Nemo1775]

Your knife is most likely coated underneath. As the handle scales are uncoated from the mothership. I’ve never done it but there are a few threads on removing the scales.
If you use the search option I’m sure you’ll find them. I’ve read McMasters (?) sells hardware to reattach the scales.
Hope this helps some, I’m sure others will be along with more experience with this.

That is helpful, thank you.

 

[Nemo1775]

As someone who has taken scales off and re-tubed them quite a few times.

Know that you are voiding the warranty on whatever you modify

****first and foremost, clamp the knife down, use the drill press vice before drilling out the tubes****
I have seen the aftermath of someone that just held it with their hands.

Deadly helicopter

Usually the tubes Busse uses are stainless they used to be brass long ago.

1/4" drill bit will usually get it done

Go slow drill a little at a time.

Knife supply places usually have the bolts to use when re-attaching.

I use both Brass and stainless tubing (again knife kits or another knife supply place will have tubes)

All of the scales I have taken off (about 10 or 15 sets) did not have any glue or epoxy holding them on.
Just the mechanical attachment of the tubes.

Now if you want to replace with tubes, that is the hard part.

I had custom tube flare dies made about 12 years ago to handle the different wall thickness of some tubes.

Most recent handle job, I added the red liners;

View attachment 2693674View attachment 2693675

smaller diameter brass tubes on a pink g-10 handle job for Mrs. Brown

View attachment 2693676View attachment 2693678

Nicely done! I would not try to do this free-hand, I have seen too many OSHA safety videos to goof around with blades and power tools!

 

[Nemo1775]

Thread 'Battle Grade FSH rusting under scales'

Feb 16, 2024

Hey! I picked up this Battle Grade Fusion Steel Heart the other day and it appears to be rusting underneath the cerakote/scales. See pics -






I threw the FSH in my friends sandblaster and gave it hell for 15 minutes - it came out looking like this. The rust is cleaned up and it looks like there is some faint pitting where the rust was the worst.







I'm guessing underneath the scales the rust is pretty bad? Anyone been here before?

• willmtn1
• Replies: 67
• Forum: Busse Combat Knives

• 

I documented some work on a Busse knife in this thread.

Good luck!

Thank you for sharing, what a cool project and it turned out very nice! The step by step photos and description are quite helpful.

 

[David Mary]

The other thing to mention is your Triceratops is kinda small to be a spear, and angled wrong for it. You want a spear blade to be something that the point is oriented as close to parallel with the shaft as you can get it for greatest thrusting efficiency.

 

[willmtn1]

Nemo1775 you are welcome!

 

[Nemo1775]

The other thing to mention is your Triceratops is kinda small to be a spear, and angled wrong for it. You want a spear blade to be something that the point is oriented as close to parallel with the shaft as you can get it for greatest thrusting efficiency.

I am familiar with spears, the idea would be for it to be a knife, that can be made easily into a hasty, survival spear. Not planning on having spear duty be primary purpose. Main purpose is a slim, very concealable back up blade. Just an idea at this point.