Modified Military

Joined
Apr 15, 1999
Messages
1,442
I finally got the chance to make the small modifications to my Military that I had previously detailed. Sorry I didn't post immediately, been kinda busy.

I used a brand new cordless Dremel tool for the task (I love my Heavy Duty Flex Shaft, but decided I needed something more portable). I opened the blade about 45 degrees for the best access, then secured and masked the handle with several layers of masking tape. That let me be less careful about Dremeling the handle and scuffing the G-10; a little advance warning when the tool got too close. Using a fine-grit drum-sanding bit, I applied a 45-degree chamfer to both sides of the "hump," starting just behind the top and going as far as the fourth thumb-notch. The chamfer is deep enough to go just past the depth of the notches on the sides of the blade. I tapered the chamfer off at both ends and kept the two sides even, so it really doesn't look half bad. The grit from the drum about matched the rough-finish on the Military's spine, so I probably won't finish it further.

So far, the effect on the knife's "draw" has been very positive. While it still has a noticeable tug from the hump when I pull it fast, it has not snagged at all so far. I have to carry it more with different pants, but I'm optimistic. No longer does the knife snag badly enough to simply halt the draw or even get yanked from my hand. Plus, the thumb notches are still at their full depth in the middle of the spine and feel just as grippy to my thumb. In short, if my experience with the rest of my wardrobe continues what I've seen so far, I'd say this was a complete success. A very small modification, but one that makes a huge difference to me, because I won't carry a knife that might snag when I need to draw it quickly.

------------------
-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives
 
Corduroy - Thanx for the time, work and the report. Keep us posted. we brought this up in the R&D meeting Tuesday and are woking on a number of additional solutions. We'll keep you posted.
sal
 
OK, I'm curious to see what you come up with. I got my Starmate today and kinda, um, modified that a bit, too. I know I hadn't asked permission and I take full responsibility for the results, but as it turns out I'm quite pleased.

I took enough out of the liner and back scale to give access to the hole from both sides, so I could drop it more easily. I don't think Mr. Terzuola had the "drop" in mind when he designed it or he wouldn't have left the hole part-covered like that. Anyhow, I didn't do enough to compromise the lock in any way, but gave it a pronounced finger-groove on the back side and elongated the front one a teeny bit to match. I'm very happy with the result, as you can't tell it from the original factory work and it really helps "lock in" the grip. I don't expect you to sanction that sort of thing but I thought you might like to hear about it.

------------------
-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives
 
Saw this in another thread and last week modified my new Military. Dremel along the top of the hole in the blade especially along the file marks. Now it does not catch on my pocket. Only problem was the grit from the grinding. Some got in the pivot area. I used some gun scrubber then relubricated with break free oil, now smooth as silk. Personally, I like the rounded spine ala Sebenza, it looks well more finished, but it will take too much work to do this to whole spine on the military. Also probably void the warranty.
Jim

------------------
What? Another knife? Don't you have enough of those things already?
How many does one person need?
 
Drew - Unless Bob has some objection, we'll probably use it. refinement is how the goal of perfection is sought.
sal
 
Just back from a weekend at my shop. Whenever I was out of the high-grit environment I was carrying the Starmate (#538), and it's great. Very different from my other knives, which all have an almost pistol-like saber-grip. Would you like me to post pictures of its modification if I can? Or I could send it to you if you're curious.

Turning a critical eye, I'd like to comment on my Starmate for a minute. Functionally, my only gripe (besides the back scale covering the hole before I changed that) is that the false edge is very shallow, with a flat "edge" almost 3/32" wide on mine. It's pretty, but I doubt it aids penetration any. I'd rather see it at a steeper angle to serve a functional purpose. In fit-and-finish, my false edge is very uneven, one side to the other. I may regrind it to my tastes. The primary blade grind has shoulders at different angles, exactly like the Militaries I have examined. I'm thinking someone is grinding differently with their left hand than their right.

I popped the knife open (hey, I only promised not to disassemble the Military) and was surprised to find three washers. One was crumpled and not on the pivot, leading me to believe it was an "extra" that slipped in somehow. Action improved markedly when I removed it and assembled the knife with the "normal" two washers - is my hunch correct that three was not intentional? I also removed a small bur from my spacer. I have noticed that the clips on this knife and the Military bend very easily compared to other Spydie clips - why is that?

Overall, this is a super knife. I'm just being ultra-picky. I'm enjoying it immensely, though I doubt it will get as much pocket-time as the Military once the novelty wears off. The Military is even displacing my AFCK most days... weird
wink.gif


------------------
-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives
 
Drew - Thanx for the input. A pic would be nice if you can do it. We'll be testing a variety of solutions beginning next week. modifications as well as totally new solutions.

Regarding the grinds, they are done by machine, not by hand. Just finished by hand. Actually the swedge grind we were told couldn't be done on the equipment. Vince doesn't understand "can't be done". Just grinding 440V with CNC stuff creates it's own set of problems.

Sorry 'bout the extra washer (we won't charge you). The obvious difference between custom maker and factory maker displayed. The Starmate has an adjustable pivot, be careful not to change that adjustment when you "pop it apart".

Regarding the clips, two different steels.
sal
 
I took enough out of the liner and back scale to give access to the hole from both sides, so I could drop it more easily. I don't think Mr. Terzuola had the "drop" in mind when he designed it or he wouldn't have left the hole part-covered like that. Anyhow, I didn't do enough to compromise the lock in any way, but gave it a pronounced finger-groove on the back side and elongated the front one a teeny bit to match.

I've no problems at all opening my Starmate with my left thumb, or holding it for a "drop opening" as it is.

The back scale is straight for a reason:

Changing the "hole access" to a "finger groove" will change the position the finger naturally ends up, and that means you'll have to redesign other parts of the knife to suit that, in particular moving the thumb ramp to the rear a bit.

An alternative could have been to move the hole up a bit to give better access from the back, but I like it better as it is.

------------------
Urban Fredriksson www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/


 
You're correct that giving the back scale a groove where the hole is shifts the grip back ever so slightly, but that's why I elongated both the front and back grooves a tiny bit forward. This also removed the rather sharp corner on the front edge of the existing groove on the front (left) scale. Now I find that my index finger "locks in" to the groove and I get my grip really fast and secure, and have no trouble with the thumb-ramp placement.

If you can get a good grip on the hole with that back scale covering 1/3 of it, more power to ya. I couldn't, so I "fixed" it, and I'm very happy with the results. Some folks can drop a Viele, with that tiny, part-covered hole, but I have short, wide fingers that need more purchase, so I need as much to hang on to as I can get. The biggest danger with the "drop" is that you won't get a good grip and will drop the knife when you snap it downward. I can't remember the last time that happened, but I do remember that it's very bad, and would be worse in an emergency situation, so I do everything possible to prevent it. If I practice grabbing the knife and opening it fast, and don't feel secure, something's got to change.

------------------
-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives

[This message has been edited by Corduroy (edited 13 July 1999).]
 
You're correct that giving the back scale a groove where the hole is shifts the grip back ever so slightly, but that's why I elongated both the front and back grooves a tiny bit forward.
I think I understand better now. Seems sensible.

If you can get a good grip on the hole with that back scale covering 1/3 of it, more power to ya.
Is "1/3" an exageration or did your look different from mine? As far as I can make out, the hole is 13 mm across and the scale only covers slightly under 2 mm.


------------------
Urban Fredriksson
www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/

 
Yes, I'd say 1/3 was an exaggeration. Hard for me to tell since mine is modified now. The point is that for me to have a firm grip, the hole must be uncovered AND have some clearance from the handle scale as well. If you can be comfortable rapidly grabbing and dropping open a knife with less to hang onto than that, I can understand why you'd have no problem with the original layout of this knife.

-Drew
 
Corduroy, have you done any work on the Military similar to what you did with the Starmate? didn't you have some problem with the lock originally on your Mil? Like it unlocking easily under heavy grip?

------------------
Work hard, play hard, live long.
Outlaw_Dogboy

 
No, I haven't touched that area on my Military. While the back scale and liner come very close to the edge of the hole, the hole is so enormous that this does not affect my opening grip as it would on a "normal" hole. I also cannot find a using grip that closes or even puts much pressure on the lock. I do believe that some folks can do this, but we all have different hands and I simply don't have this trouble. I've really tried, and I just can't do it!

-Drew
 
Thanks Corduroy, that's kinda what I was hoping to hear. If you really have the fat fingers that I thinkyou mentioned somewhere, yet can't find that grip that makes the lock disengage, it seems to be a good sign.

------------------
Work hard, play hard, live long.
Outlaw_Dogboy

 
Back
Top