My Hatchet Project in the style of Norlund/Gransfor Bruks
I bought a Marbles Camp Axe for about $25. While the axe seemed decent for the money, I didnt care for the flared head and especially the thin handle. Returning it would cost $8 or more, so I decided to try my hand at hatchet modification. Ive always liked the Norlund hatchet head tomahawk shape, so I used that as a starting point. The rest of this write-up describes the process I followed.
Remove the head from the handle by drilling a series of small holes along the wooden wedge. Drill out the inside of the circular metal wedge and pry the wedge out. With a little pulling and a couple hits with the dead blow hammer the head should come off (preserving the original handle).
Clamp the head in a vise and cut the head using a 4-inch angle grinder with a thin metal cutting wheel. Mark the area beforehand with blue tape to try to retain the rough cut line while cutting.
Shape and rough sand the head on a wide stationary belt sander. If the heads gets hot in your hands quench it under cold water, dry it off and continue. Do this until satisfied with the profile.
Sand the entire head to remove the factory black surface, leaving a bunch of dimples or hammer dings. Use a progressively finer series of grits going to at least 220 grit. (This hatchet is meant to be used so I didnt want to fuss too much sanding. I kind of like the dimpling effect that was left behind.)
Select the handle wood. The blank should be at least 1 inch thick. (I used a piece of Osage Orange for the handle, but hickory or ash will do just fine. I drew up four potential full size handle designs and did some research on handle shapes. I picked a relatively straight handle design; according ax design books this is the most efficient shape.)
Make sure that no matter what wood you choose, that the wood grain on the handle runs parallel to the length of the ax head. Tape the design profile to the wood blank with double stick tape or trace the shape onto the wood. Cut the handle profile with a jigsaw or band saw. Smooth the cut edges with a belt sander or drum sander.
Route the 4 long edges with a 1/2 inch router bit (but not the ends) to speed the shaping process. Further shape the handle using rasps, files, and sandpaper. During the process hold the handle in your hand to make sure the grip feels good.
Mark the shape of the eye on the end of the handle and go to work removing wood until the head slides on the handle and the handle end sticks out at least 1/4 inch. Using a hacksaw cut a slot in the end of the handle 2/3 the depth of the axe head.
Cut a wooden wedge that fits the slot. (I used hard maple for the wedge and I dont plan to use a metal wedge.)
Using a dead blow hammer, pound the handle into the head. Wet the wooden wedge with boiled linseed oil and pound it into the slot. Cut off the extra wedge and sand with a disk sander so the wedge is even with the end of the handle. It is not necessary to grind the handle flush to the head.
Apply finish to the handle. (I finished the wooden handle with a 3 part mixture of boiled linseed oil/turpentine/beeswax. I also soaked the wedge end of the handle in linseed oil for a few hours. Now all I have left to do is sharpen the blade and test it out.)
I bought a Marbles Camp Axe for about $25. While the axe seemed decent for the money, I didnt care for the flared head and especially the thin handle. Returning it would cost $8 or more, so I decided to try my hand at hatchet modification. Ive always liked the Norlund hatchet head tomahawk shape, so I used that as a starting point. The rest of this write-up describes the process I followed.
Remove the head from the handle by drilling a series of small holes along the wooden wedge. Drill out the inside of the circular metal wedge and pry the wedge out. With a little pulling and a couple hits with the dead blow hammer the head should come off (preserving the original handle).
Clamp the head in a vise and cut the head using a 4-inch angle grinder with a thin metal cutting wheel. Mark the area beforehand with blue tape to try to retain the rough cut line while cutting.
Shape and rough sand the head on a wide stationary belt sander. If the heads gets hot in your hands quench it under cold water, dry it off and continue. Do this until satisfied with the profile.
Sand the entire head to remove the factory black surface, leaving a bunch of dimples or hammer dings. Use a progressively finer series of grits going to at least 220 grit. (This hatchet is meant to be used so I didnt want to fuss too much sanding. I kind of like the dimpling effect that was left behind.)
Select the handle wood. The blank should be at least 1 inch thick. (I used a piece of Osage Orange for the handle, but hickory or ash will do just fine. I drew up four potential full size handle designs and did some research on handle shapes. I picked a relatively straight handle design; according ax design books this is the most efficient shape.)
Make sure that no matter what wood you choose, that the wood grain on the handle runs parallel to the length of the ax head. Tape the design profile to the wood blank with double stick tape or trace the shape onto the wood. Cut the handle profile with a jigsaw or band saw. Smooth the cut edges with a belt sander or drum sander.
Route the 4 long edges with a 1/2 inch router bit (but not the ends) to speed the shaping process. Further shape the handle using rasps, files, and sandpaper. During the process hold the handle in your hand to make sure the grip feels good.
Mark the shape of the eye on the end of the handle and go to work removing wood until the head slides on the handle and the handle end sticks out at least 1/4 inch. Using a hacksaw cut a slot in the end of the handle 2/3 the depth of the axe head.
Cut a wooden wedge that fits the slot. (I used hard maple for the wedge and I dont plan to use a metal wedge.)
Using a dead blow hammer, pound the handle into the head. Wet the wooden wedge with boiled linseed oil and pound it into the slot. Cut off the extra wedge and sand with a disk sander so the wedge is even with the end of the handle. It is not necessary to grind the handle flush to the head.
Apply finish to the handle. (I finished the wooden handle with a 3 part mixture of boiled linseed oil/turpentine/beeswax. I also soaked the wedge end of the handle in linseed oil for a few hours. Now all I have left to do is sharpen the blade and test it out.)
