Any sharpening people desire to assist the gentleman?
Though I've not done such a modification (nor recommend it for practical and legal reasons - some states frown on sharp edges on both sides of a blade), I'd think it could be accomplished just as you would sharpen any knife.
You might need to change the angle to a more acute one, and I'd recommend taking it slow.
Well I started working on it with an Accusharp. It's just really slow. It'll probably take me month this way . I need something that takes it off faster than that.
You could start with a mill bastard file. It won't take long to knock some steel off with that, be careful. (I've found it's REALLY hard to un-file steel! ) Then wrap the file with 100-grit sandpaper and work your way up to finer grits. Using the file as a block will help keep the bevels straight and flat. I would go all the way to 400-grit at least so it looks nice and smooth. When you get the bevels to meet like Cliff said, then it's time to use your Accusharp.
Going slow is a good thing; I definitely wouldn't use a grinder. Too easy to over-heat the tip and then it won't keep an edge.
Thanks Guys. I realized that I didn't have the skill to do it any other way so I just set to it to get it done with the Accusharp. I found that if I angled the Accusharp I could speed up the process. Really a nice compliment to the Short Ka-Bar. It's sweet!!!
The original factory angle on the Ka-Bar was 34. I had brought that down to whatever the Accusharp gives you. Everything now is whatever that is, don't really know, but it's scary sharp. The other nice thing is that the AUS-8A should hold the edge a good bit better than the 1095.
kel, I know that the angle on their carbide sharpener is at 34 and I thought that I read that fixed Ka-Bars were at that angle, but it was a long time ago, and my memory of it is very vague and indeed I'm not sure if that applied to the Short Ka-Bar.
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