Mods and other stones for EdgePro?

That's for the Pro, there's another one floating around for the Apex, but it's the exact same idea, just turned upside down since it's the arm that moves on the Apex, not the vertical shaft.

I've been trying to get those Micron ratings as well, the estimates I have are the ones listed for the EP Stock stones on the chart. Those numbers have been being called more and more into question of late, I'm considering moving them to "approximate" numbers instead of "known". I haven't been able to get any confirmation from Ben Dale either, I'd really like to add the Moldmaster (so I could add the defunct 800 and 1200 EP stones as well) and also include the EP diamond plates.
 
jsp said:
So these drill collars, are they for attaching stones? Are you guys talking about installing the collar to the EP stone arm? Do you guys have any pics you can post for better clarification?
Click to expand...

No the collar is so you can adjust for different stone thicknesses without using a sharpie.
 
@CrimsonTideShooter:

There are dozens of types of collars... Have a peek yourself at a list:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=e0wfky

Some are set with a screw, others are set by clamping (clamp-on), some are one-piece, others are two-piece...

There are even quick-release collars (although these are expensive for collars):
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=e0wfwc

The screw-set ones could dent the shaft, so I tend to prefer the clamp-on ones because they won't scratch/dent the shaft.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6435k62/=e0wiw0

Sincerely,
--Lagrangian
 
@jeffphansen77:
Aww... shucks! Oh well. :(
Maybe there is another supplier that has them in the right size?
 
I just finished watching that video. You guys amaze me sometimes. I have the Pro model. What size collar would I need for it? I can see this coming in handy after using the Atoma #140 diamond stone. It is really thin.
 
I'm really liking the angle cube and lock collar idea. Anything to make life a bit more simple is always good. I'll have to place an order very soon.
 
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Ben Dover said:
One can purchase ATOMA diamond stones already mounted on EP blanks from Tom at

www.jendeindustries.com

in four different grits.
(The site is a bit difficult to navigate, so go to the search function and enter "ATOMA")

I've used the stones you mentioned, as well as the DMT stones, and I consider the ATOMA far superior in every respect. Obviously, a superior product will command a premium price, but quality always does.

In my experience, the ATOMAs are actually the least expensive in the long run.
Click to expand...

I have been waiting for DMT to come out with stones for the EP for about a year. They were working on some. Now they have put them on the back burner because of lack of interest. That's a quote from Mark Bettke at DMT. I looked at the Atoma stones and they look nice. They are thinner than the EP stones which are 1/8" so you need to make adjustments for that but that is another story and easily done. I was hoping for DMT to come out with 1/8" stones like the ones for their aligner but 6" long and 1" wide. We could mount them on a blank if we needed to. I haven't been on this forum in a while. I remember a thread dealing with the EP. I found this one first. I was going to suggest that everyone who wants DMT to make stones for the EP to contact them and indicate an interest. If they believe they will sell I'm sure they will re-consider them. Here is the email reply from Mark that I got:

I emailed DMT about a couple of things and when to expect the stones that will mount in the EP. Here is the reply I got:

Quote:
... Also, regarding your inquiry about the Edge Pro stones: that has been put on the back burner for a while due to lack of interest. If it comes back up in our New Products review I will let you know.
Quote end:

I don't know anything about their new products review or how to influence their opinions other than just emailing them via your email or using their "contact us" feature on their web site. They are also on facebook (who isn't?). If anyone is interested in them making stones for the EP I'd suggest you let them know. They don't make a 6" x 1" wide stone with the holes in the surface. That's what they need to make so making something a size they don't already make may be expensive to start. Then they would need to be glued to a blank to fit in the EP but users could do that. Also, the 6" stones would be usable to anyone, not just EP users. Now their small stones are 4" and smaller. I think a 6" stone would sell but I'm no marketing expert.


NOTE:
If you have never used diamond sharpening products do some checking into using them. They are a different animal than other stones and should be used and maintained properly.

So, if you would like DMT (or anyone) to persue diamond products for the EP let them know. Contact Mark Bettke, Plant Manager at Mbettke@dmtsharp.com.

Jack
 
jsp said:
Has anyone here used the EZE-LAP 1"x6" diamond stones? It has the fish hook grove on it but it doesn't look like it's on both sides.
Is it diamond coated on both sides? Are you guys just using the 3M #77 spray adhesive to mount other manufactures stones to the blanks?
Here's a link: http://www.knifecenter.com/item/EZL41XC/eze-lap-extra-coarse-stone-with-groove
Click to expand...

Never used the EZE-LAP stones. If you glue it to an EP blank it will be a lot heavier than other stones. I got some 2"x6" DMT stone, mounted them and they were way too heavy since the stone is on top of the blade in the EP. The 1" wide stone would be half the weight but still kind of heavy I think. That may not be a problem if you get the coarser stones but when using the fine and extra fine 2" wide stones just the weight of the stone was putting more pressure on the blade than I wanted to. I just want DMT to make some 1"x6" stones like their 4" corregated stones. The plastic or whatever the sharpening surface is glued to is very light. They aren't persuing making stones this size because of lack of interest for their stones to fit the EP. I'm learning there are other options but I know DMT makes quality products and I'd stick with them instead of trying another companie's stones. At the price of diamond sharpening products I'll stick with a company I know has quality products and I've used DMT stuff quite a bit and like them.

I just use everyday general purpose glue to glue the stones to the blank for my EP. The 3M stuff that Ben uses is kind of expensive he told me so unless you plan on using it for more things it may be wasted unless it lasts for years without use. I think he said it costs about $15 or so per can. The only thing about the glue you use is it needs to let go when you put it in boiling water when it's time to replace the stone.

Jack
 
Lagrangian said:
Hmm.... I had trouble searching for a quick-release shaft-collar in 5/16th inches. This is the best I could find: It is a 5/16th inch shaft collar and is quick-release. But seems rather long... Maybe too long?

http://www.amazon.com/Climax-0312SC..._1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1315816280&sr=1-1
Click to expand...

Looks too long to me. But there are plenty in the right size. Just none with the quick release feature, at least so far. I was complaining about not having diamond stones for my EP less than a year ago. Now I get a selection of diamonds & a gadget to eliminate stone height issues. I can live with the allen wrench issue, all things considered. I have a shaft collar on the way via Amazon.
 
I created this post a while back and have posted it on this forum I think but here it is if someone hasn't seen it. Several people have said they like the idea but I don't know if anyone has done it other than me. Anyway here it is. I haven't figured out how to put pictures in the post and I have some to show what I'm trying to show. I'm going to keep working on getting the pictures here. If anyone has info on the pictures please let me know.


EDGE GUIDE BLOCKS FOR THE EDGE PRO SHARPENER

I made blocks to help hold the blade in one position when sharpening a knife that is small enough to sharpen without sliding the blade along the EP blade table. The blocks will keep the blade from pivoting back and forth when the spine is not flat enough to rest against the edge guide without pivoting.

USING EDGE GUIDE BLOCK FOR EDGE PRO SHARPENER

1. You can see how a knife blade will pivot back and forth on a part of the spine depending on the shape of the blade spine. (pictures 1 thru 3) I pictured the pivot way too much just to illustrate the pivot movement. If this pivoting occurs during the sharpening process it could result in the stone hitting the edge of the knife just a little bit different from stroke to stroke. The goal is to have the stone hit the edge exactly the same on every stroke. Since the human being (and me in particular) is prone to error I created what I call “Edge Guide Blocks” (EGB) for my Edge Pro (EP). They should hold the knife blade in the same position all the time. I only use these for blades short enough that you don’t need to slide the blade along the sharpener. I’d say 4” or less blade length.

2. This is a picture of EGBs for a few knives. (picture 4) Notice the “legs” that fit around the edge guide on the EP. These keep the block from sliding back and forth on the sharpener.

3. Here is a picture (picture 5) of the EGB on the EP with my knife. I removed the white plastic piece on the guide in the picture with the EGB so it would be easier to see I hope. Once you put the block on the EP you need to adjust the guide so the edge is in the right position on the blade table on the EP. Flip the EGB with the knife when sharpening opposite sides.

Additional notes:
Keep in mind that when the edge of the knife is moved further from or closer to the very edge of the blade table on the EP it changes the angle slightly that the stone will hit the edge of the blade. This change is very slight but it can be easier to picture it in your mind by thinking of moving the blade all the way down to the bottom of the table. The angle per side would be almost 90 degrees per side. So if you have your knife on the blade table with the edge ¼” off the sharpener you will be hitting the edge at a certain angle. If you then move the blade down the table so the blade edge is right at the end of the table the stone will be hitting the edge at slightly a higher angle. I don't know if it makes enough of a difference to matter. I haven’t done it yet but I’m going to find out just how big a difference it would make. This moving closer and farther away can occur when not using an EGB if the blade pivots on the table.




1. Correct position using no Edge Guide Block


2. Incorrect (displaying drastic pivoting)


3. Incorrect (displaying drastic pivoting)


4. Misc. Edge Guide Blocks


5. Correct position using Edge Guide Block. Flip blade and block to sharpen opposite side.



TO MAKE AN EDGE GUIDE BLOCK

Place the material you are going to make a block out of under the edge guide and tighten it down. The material is a square or rectangle at this point.

Mark the outline of the edge guide on the material.

Then place the knife on top of the material so the blade edge is positioned parallel with the end of the blade table (or however you want it positioned when you sharpen it). Draw the outline of the blade spine on the material.

Remove the material from the EP and cut out what was under the edge guide and what was under the knife blade.

NOTE: Paint stirrers work well because the wood is soft enough to cut out easily and strong enough to hold the blade in place during sharpening. The blocks in my pictures are made out of vinyl siding I had left over after siding our house. The vinyl siding works good because you can make thin or thicker ones by gluing 2 or 3 together. This would be determined by the thickness of the knife blade. A thin kitchen knife would only need a thin EGB but a camp knife may need an EGB that is 3 times thicker. You don’t want the block thicker than the blade and closer to the tip you need to cut the material back far enough that the stone doesn’t hit the block when sharpening an edge to lower angles.
 
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Those guide blocks look like they would be the thing if you only have to sharpen a few knives. You'd have to make one for every new knife you get that you wanna sharpen. I have about 10-15 knives that I rotate, I'd have to make one for each. :(
 
singularity35 said:
Those guide blocks look like they would be the thing if you only have to sharpen a few knives. You'd have to make one for every new knife you get that you wanna sharpen. I have about 10-15 knives that I rotate, I'd have to make one for each. :(
Click to expand...

That's true. You need one for each knife. Some will work for more than one but that would just be a lucky fit. It takes me about 3 - 5 minutes to make each one now that I've done it a few times. I have between 15 and 20 of them. Using the vinyl siding I have plenty of makes it really easy to make one and very fast. I like them so much I've even made a couple for friend's knives in case I sharpen them again. They just eliminate me from having to turn the knife or the pivoting at all. Just my preference. I still don't know how to add pictures to my post. I looked in the FAQ and read something about clicking "new post" instead of "quick reply" but haven't found the new post button yet. I'm sure my vision is failing. :D

When I first thought of the block idea I was hoping to make one with a pivoting rivit so I could adjust one block for different spine shapes. I never persued that but I think with a little time and thought it would work.

Jack
 
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Quick-Release Handles for One-Piece Shaft Collars
Standard Grip
Ultra Grip

If you frequently move collars along shafts, you'll no longer have to search for a wrench to adjust them. Use one of these knurled handles to replace your one-piece collar's socket-head cap screw (just match the screw size). The handle keeps the collar secure on the shaft, then lets you loosen and tighten the collar for quick adjustments.

Ultra-grip handles give you the option of using a wrench on the wrench flat or a cheater bar in the through hole for additional tightening force.

Black-Oxide Steel—Made of grade 12L14 steel. Black-oxide finish offers some corrosion resistance.

Type 303 Stainless Steel—Offer good corrosion resistance.

For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.

Standard

Black-OxideSteel


Type 303
Stainless Steel
Screw
Size Screw 4-40 McMaster Carr item number 9976K11 is another solution
 
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