mokume tutorial / WHY DID I FAIL

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Jan 17, 2008
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ok, so bear with me through this, i may answer my own question from the title of the post, but need confirmation....so i did up a 19 layer stack of mokume, with .020 sheets of copper and nickel silver.

my process in short version was cut,clean,soak in 3/4'' plates in ht oven at 1650 for just over an hour, plates were tightened while under the pressure of my forging press so i know they were tight.

everything looked great.....actually perfect, which was a real supprise. so after touching up the edges on the grinder i heated and quenched from around 900deg f. then tried to roll in my rolling mill, instantly got a slight sepperation, ground it out, but it seemed to be all the way through. so i split and figured id work the two halves seperately. (making rings btw) i tried working at 1200deg f, tried working under the pres, annealed, in the rolling mill, hot,cold, etc it just kept coming apart. one a small piece i did by hand was going ok, but fail when i put in the rolling mill.

my two conclusions

1, i needed either higher temp, or longer soak time or both to complete the full diffusion process

2. i was trying to take to big of a bite at one time with the rolloing mill.

i think both seem to be valid explanations, but woulod be interested in hearing others ideas. (got one week to have two wedding bands done....:o )

ok heres some pics

ready to sand and clean

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the plates
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tightening the bolts under pressure

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the face of these was surface ground before using

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homemade charcoal

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filling around billet with crushed charcoal i made
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i sealed it off with masking tape to prevent it from just falling out before getting into oven.
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doubled s.s. foil pouch
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in for a soak @1650 f
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little over an hour later, out of oven and under press, few light squeezes, then a press and hold till most of the glow was gone

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PERFECTION......OR SO I THOUGHT,not totally convinced it wasnt perfect, im leaning towards a combination of technique working the material afterwards, and the not long enough soak.

either way here is the billet complete, and this is the billet that ended up seperating till it was totally trashed.

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any thoughts?
 
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this jumps out at me, why nickel silver for rings ?

It seems to me lots of folks have trouble with nickel skin reactions.

Unless you are lining it with gold or silver?
 
less costly, especially when i am screwing up like this, and i intend on putting .999 fine silver liners in them, otherwise both materials would turn skin colors..

and there not really wedding bands, well kinda, my buddy lost his, but been married for some time now, doesnt really want to go get a normal band, and i was just making a addition ring for his wife.
 
I took a quick look at the Fergeson book and it lists 600 to 700 C

If I read it right, your temps are high compared to that.

Time, temp, cleanliness
Those are the factors that have tripped me up.
 
at what length of a soak at that temp? seems at just under 1300 f that it must take a lot longer soak, which i dont have a problem doing, but every where i read said to soak at 50-100 deg under lowest melting point, and with these two materials the nickle silver was around 1725, and copper was around 1800-1900f , so i figured 1650 f was playing it safe, guess ill try again at lower temp, and longer soak.
 
http://www.amazon.ca/Mokume-Gane-Ian-Ferguson/dp/0873499018

Page 107
700*C 60 minutes

There is some complicated math based on the Kelvin scale, but the temps spelled out is 700C


The plates have quite a bit of mass maybe affecting when the soak time starts, perhaps longer soak time would help


Only 2 screws, why not 4?

What's the white stuff on the edge of the plates in this photo?
Something squeezed out ? flux?
22505_453761791332911_1928945152_n.jpg
 
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I haven't made any in a while, but I used a lower temperature and a much longer soak to allow the diffusion. IIRC, I would diffuse for six or seven hours at around 1375°F for sterling/copper. I would have to look up the nickel silver/copper temps.

I have found that a rolling mill is a problem in hand made mokume. It shears the laminations, as the two materials often have different amounts of movement. Once the billet is reduced, rolling may be OK, but there are failures sometimes. The first reduction of 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness should be done by hammer. Start gently with the hot billet right out of the plates, and increase in force as the billet compresses. Anneal as needed. Working it hot makes for faster reduction, but if it is too hot the billet will fall apart, so it takes some practice.
For what it's worth, I was doing 2"X2"X2" blocks and reducing them by hand to 1/2" or so.
 
Good day!, I saw this thread this morning and had to join so I could chime in. First and most important is copper should never be used in a ring. A liner or precious metals does not change this rule. Copper looks great. Makes great pictures. The worst case I have seen is a matched pair of wedding rings with the copper totally etched out of the pattern. Microscopically the copper could be found dee below the intervening layers of sterling. All in all it looked like a nice nitric etch. This is body chemistry at work! Oils, acids and electrolytes will react with the non precious alloys in many ways. That forever ring may only last months. Add to this that a large percentage of the population will react to nickel and you just have a bad mix. Inexpensive, yes, but wrong. You could laminate copper to aluminum, really cheap, but you wouldn't do it for a ring.
There is another forum where mokumé is discussed often and the archives contain reams of information. It is Orchid@ganoksin.com. Go to http://www.ganoksin.com/ On the left side is forums link.
Good luck, Bill
reactivemetals.com
 
I used 1 hour at 1725 for the last stack I did. it was a 2x2 2.5inch stack, pressed to 2x2x2 after the soak. I Have had the best luck by forging and anealing this combination a couple of times before any manipulation.
 
thanks all for the info, i will be doing a stack tonight, probably ill post results.

tinman thanks for the info, i think ill just go with damascus for the rings, and do other jewelry for the mokume, i have a few test rings out there that are holding up just fine in carbon steel and nickle, btw awesome website, ill be doing business with them in the near future. pm me a number if you would, id like to speak to you

moore knives , thanks for the reply, i will call you this afternoon brother been very busy.

thanks again all
 
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