Monkey Proof Sharpening Jig

BMK

BMK

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Jan 30, 2011
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alb1k was nice enough to provide me with some numbers off the Edge Pro type jig he made. I welded up an all steel Monkey Proof version of my own. The Monkey Proof Sharpening Jig (MPSJ) clamps into any vice and uses standard Edge Pro stones.

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You crack me up. You are so hard core about how everyone else is over-complicating things and you make something like this.... You clearly have some fab skills and attention to detail. You can keep calling it simple since that seems to be your shtick.... but clearly it's not so simple.

This is simple. ;)
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A simple jig in the hand of a monkey can perform any task to closer tolerances than the most skilled human hand. Simple jigs make close tolerance work simple. Your pic is simple because there is no repeatability or precision, relative to what a simple jig can do.

BTW, "Tony" (below) made the jig and he disagrees with you

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NickWheeler said:
You crack me up. You are so hard core about how everyone else is over-complicating things and you make something like this.... You clearly have some fab skills and attention to detail. You can keep calling it simple since that seems to be your shtick.... but clearly it's not so simple.

This is simple. ;)
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Hahaha.... Yea... You just keep on roll'n with that.

Did a stupid monkey make your "simple" jig ??? :jerkit:

Edited to say I'd be glad to put my inferior hand done work up against your monkey's anyday. :rolleyes:
 
Hmmmmm. Simple? Jeffery, doesn't the angle change on your jig along the length of the blade?
Especially important in maintaing the correct degree of approach along a scandi ground blade? Does Tony do Trig?
All kidding aside I'm trying to wrap my head around the math and don't have a piece of paper handy.
Scandi grinds work on a grinder with a jig because you are only working with two angles. The belt vertical and you jig at 12degrees or so?
 
Now, that sounds complicated. If the blade is fixed to the table the angle changes slightly as the stone works the entire length of the blade. The blade can be moved on this jig so the section of blade being worked remains at or near the center of the table.

Brian Ayres said:
Hmmmmm. Simple? Jeffery, doesn't the angle change on your jig along the length of the blade?
Especially important in maintaing the correct degree of approach along a scandi ground blade? Does Tony do Trig?
All kidding aside I'm trying to wrap my head around the math and don't have a piece of paper handy.
Scandi grinds work on a grinder with a jig because you are only working with two angles. The belt vertical and you jig at 12degrees or so?
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I like it, I have been thinking of something along this line, nice work. I see you have marked the stone 220, I am assuming you have other arms with other stones to exchange with. The amount of welding also will fit my skill level with a welder.
 
Thanks. I have arms with 120, 220, 320, 600 and 1000 grit mounted to 1 x 1x8" bar stock.

Patrickknives said:
I like it, I have been thinking of something along this line, nice work. I see you have marked the stone 220, I am assuming you have other arms with other stones to exchange with. The amount of welding also will fit my skill level with a welder.
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BMK said:
Thanks. I have arms with 120, 220, 320, 600 and 1000 grit mounted to 1 x 1x8" bar stock.
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You mean you have five separate rod and plate assemblies that go with this set up? It seems like a lot of equipment and involved fabrication to perform what is basically a very simple job.
I think things to death myself sometimes. Fred
 
The arms take about 15 min to fabricate/arm. The stones can be scraped off the arm plate and new ones put on with silicone very easy - 5 min/arm.
Fred.Rowe said:
You mean you have five separate rod and plate assemblies that go with this set up? It seems like a lot of equipment and involved fabrication to perform what is basically a very simple job.
I think things to death myself sometimes. Fred
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I like it. Some people, for what ever reason, can't do it free hand to save their life. I am one of those people. Perhaps I haven't been taught properly. But I like the stability of using a sharpening system.

I wonder if there would be a way to make the stone plates removable from the arm. Or is it just simpler to have a whole set already on the arms and ready?

Can sharpening angles be changed by screwing the heim joint up and down or are you set for a certain angle only?

Would you be willing to share the specs of this rig via PM or email so I may attempt crafting one myself?
 
Thank you. Removable stones would be optimum but fabrication is a bit more involved. Sharpening angle is fully adjustable by turning the spherical rod end on the threaded vertical bolt. PM sent - good luck

GrizzlyBear said:
I like it. Some people, for what ever reason, can't do it free hand to save their life. I am one of those people. Perhaps I haven't been taught properly. But I like the stability of using a sharpening system.

I wonder if there would be a way to make the stone plates removable from the arm. Or is it just simpler to have a whole set already on the arms and ready?

Can sharpening angles be changed by screwing the heim joint up and down or are you set for a certain angle only?

Would you be willing to share the specs of this rig via PM or email so I may attempt crafting one myself?
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It reminds me of a Jantz kit. I like that the stone is longer though, the Jantz ones make for short strokes.
 
Thanks for showing. The thought of sitting down with a stone and a knife, maintaining an exact angle as I push it across the stone sends shivers down my spine. I like the way you can see your work with that system, and it is straight forward. Simply changing the height of the Heim joint to change angles would make things very consistent.

Nice work table. I would give a testicle to have a heavy duty table like that.
 
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