Moose Hunter

Karl B. Andersen

Karl B. Andersen

Joined
Jul 27, 2003
Messages
5,686
I had a customer in Sweden who wanted a hunter with a full 6 inch blade, and something "unique" for handle material.
The timing was just right. I've had a nice selection of curly maple curing for about three years, and I've always wanted to have some dyed brown during the stabilizing process.
Wow! Was I pleased?!
The dying process took an already fantastic chatoyance, and kicked it up a notch. This stuff literally dances in your hand.
The single most active shimmer in any handle material I have ever used - and I've used a lot.
So, we showcase a W1 hunter with a 6 1/8" blade, stainless take-down fittings, and a stabilized, dyed, curly maple handle.
I'll bet it can handle any moose!

I also thought I would toss in some un-edited photos from the photography process:

VHMHa-1.jpg


VHMHb-1.jpg


VHia-1.jpg


VHf-1.jpg


VHha-1.jpg


VHj-1.jpg


VHn-1.jpg


VHc-1.jpg


VHk-1.jpg


VHl-1.jpg
 
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really great work

the blade shape looks well suited to it's name and I really like the dyed Curley Maple

pics look great also very clear
 
Tight, solid, virile, elegant and beautiful...as always Karl! The dyed curly maple looks like a cross between koa and walnut. Very nice!

With all those cool photos, where are some of it in take down mode? I like the way the drop seems to start about two thirds back from the point. Is that where the distil taper starts too? Got a birds-eye photo looking down on the spine and handle?
 
That's a big hunter all right but no doubt well suited to its intended task. This is what custom knives are all about. Well done my friend. I love the way the grind on the backside of the guard transitions into the underside of the handle. Sweet.

Roger
 
Phil Dwyer said:
Tight, solid, virile, elegant and beautiful...as always Karl! The dyed curly maple looks like a cross between koa and walnut. Very nice!

With all those cool photos, where are some of it in take down mode? I like the way the drop seems to start about two thirds back from the point. Is that where the distil taper starts too? Got a birds-eye photo looking down on the spine and handle?
Click to expand...


Phil, I did take one from the top and it was out of focus!!!
The distal taper really starts right at the front of the ricasso.
I'll get you a take-down photo.
 
Another beauty, Karl. Not so sure about hunting moose with a knife, but if you could get close enough, I'm sure this could do the job! :eek: :D :thumbup:
 
Here ya' go, Phil.
First you have to look at one more picture of that handle material:

TDMHg-1.jpg


Here's the knife all apart:

TDMHi-1.jpg



Here's the overhead view and the taper view:
The guard is right at .760" wide, and the handle, at the slight palm swell, is a little over .820",

TDMHh-1.jpg


Here's the handle to guard fit-up. The 5/8" stainless dowel pins go .425" into the handle and .200" into the guard. The handle is file-fitted to the tang for no slop, even prior to pin placement.

The 5/16" 416 stainless finial has a 10/32, stainless steel socket head cap screw threaded into it and then silver brazed in place. I've been told that the silver brazing is stronger than the parent material.
I then turn them both smooth and give the face of the socket a Black Beauty sand blast for sparkle and to clean acetylene burn.

TDMHj-1.jpg


The finial "receiver" in the handle is a 3/8 416 rod into which is turned a "shelf" for the shoulder of the finial to sit on. This way there is only steel-to-steel contact in the rigid assembly.
The "receiver, itself, is setting on a shelf in the handle material so it can't go forward, and then epoxied into place.
During the assembly of all of my take-down knives, I assembly them with a pair of vise grips 30-40 times during the creation of the knife. I give them faaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrr more abuse than they will ever receive in the real world.

TDMHk-1.jpg
 
Karl,

Great idea on the dyed and stabilized maple. It looks neat, as does the hamon and all else.

Another fine hunter out of Metropolitan Watseka!

John
 
THANKS Karl! Your whole take-down approach is one of the coolest things I've seen. I often fantasize about having the resources (aka, time and money) to spend some time with you so I can learn from the best take down knife guy in the biz all the shop and construction techniques of your high quality take down methods!

BTW, I notice you're doing a lot more W1 & W2 blades with sexy hamons. Are you still working much with all the 5160 you've stashed away?

Are you going to make up a moose hide sheath for that killer knife?
 
Phil Dwyer said:
THANKS Karl! Your whole take-down approach is one of the coolest things I've seen. I often fantasize about having the resources (aka, time and money) to spend some time with you so I can learn from the best take down knife guy in the biz all the shop and construction techniques of your high quality take down methods!

BTW, I notice you're doing a lot more W1 & W2 blades with sexy hamons. Are you still working much with all the 5160 you've stashed away?

Are you going to make up a moose hide sheath for that killer knife?
Click to expand...

Phil, I can take credit for the finial receiver insert idea into the handle butt. I came up with that while staring at my bathroom ceiling laying in the bath tub.:eek: in '03.
But the basic take-down idea I was taught in '01 by the true "greatest" take-down Master of all - Jerry Rados.

(Secret - I have just devised one of the coolest internal assemblies I'm familiar with for the frame handle. I was given a nudge by Chuck Gedraitus on a method he used in a recent push dagger. I've been reluctant to do any frame handles as of yet because I have distrusted their integrity. Not any more!;))
 
Karl,
it was great visiting with you at Blade. Your table was one of the most interesting in the room. Knives looked incredible!
I especially loved that teak burl. The take down assembly is just fun to watch- though looks like it must be a tedious and near impossible job to execute as well as you do. Very consistent high quality work happening. - Photos are better too! :)
Another A+ job!
David
 
When it's pulled apart we can really see how clean all aspects of the fit and finish of the components are. Good stuff.

Roger
 
Great Work KarL! One can truly appreciated your work in its exploded form. The level of craftsmanship that goes into each piece becomes apparent when we see the various components. Simply Beautiful
 
bobbywett said:
Great Work KarL! One can truly appreciated your work in its exploded form. The level of craftsmanship that goes into each piece becomes apparent when we see the various components. Simply Beautiful
Click to expand...
RogerP said:
When it's pulled apart we can really see how clean all aspects of the fit and finish of the components are. Good stuff. --Roger
Click to expand...

My sentiments EXACTLY!
 
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