MOP on damascus..

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May 16, 2006
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I need to ask for help here. I am putting this MOP handle( not yet attached) on this Eggerling damascus blade. It does not cover the whole handle as I hated to cover the beautiful damascus blade, so it is partially there to aid in gripping as this is a particularly small knife, 2 1/8 " blade X 2 3/4" handle. Any way of just epoxy or should pins be in?? Epoxy(which?) be good enough for this limited use blade? Any input appreciated. Second photo has a G10 handle attached and filled the holes with JB weld( gray round area) instead of pins. Think it will hold?
 
Nice looking blades. It may be possible to use 2 hidden pins under the mop. drill 2 holes in the handle and transfer the locations to the mop, then only drill the mop 1/2 way thru. Put the pins (short ) in the handle and epoxy everything together. This set-up will be much stronger than just epoxy and will give you a nice clean look..
 
JB Weld is tough stuff. I've used it to fix cast iron (car's manifold) and cast aluminum (motorcycle's leaking engine cover) on engines til I could come up with a better solution and then forgot about it for a long tiime so I suspect that it will hold on a knife handle unless you are batoning it through logs.

As for the pearl on the Eggerling blade I have a couple of questions (if any seem ignorant it's because I am not that experienced).

1) Is the blade heat treated already? I assume it is so drilling other holes for small pins might be tough.
2) Are there pin sized holes already drilled in the blade, or just the two like the one with the JB Weld?
3) Have you ever drilled pearl before? It would be worth reading up on it if you haven't because there are some standard approaches (Sharp drill from the back, backed up with wood I believe are a couple of those. I can't remember if you're supposed to drill fast or slow though.) Centofante's chapter on precious materials in HowTo Make Folding Knives would be worth a look.
4) Is this knife a user or a wall hanger and is it for yourself or for someone else? If I were making it for myself, to look at, not to use then I'd use some kind of tough flexible caulk to attach the slabs and avoid the danger of drilling that pearl.
5) Do you want to be able to remove the pearl in the future?

Just some random questions that occurred to me..............

Syn
 
If this knife is for yourself than try what ever suits you because you could fix it. But if this knife is going to be for sale or given to soneone. than i would go with hidden pins or small through pins, after all you never know what someone will use it for.
Bob
 
Honestly, I am really not too sure if I want to keep it or not. Right now, it's a keeper, though. I have been reading up on mop handling and had a thread on this forum for advice and did get lots of great ones. It is already heat treated at 59RC and does have holes for pins, just not too sure if I want to use pins. I just kind of hoped that there is a bonding agent strong enough not to need pins someone could recommend. I doubt if this knife will ever be used for rough handling due to its size. Thing is, I always end up selling knives I thought I would keep forever, don't we all ?:confused:
 
Rough up the underside of the MOP and the handle area to be bonded. Careful not to go where it will show on the edges. Use some K&G 24hr cure epoxy along with shallow holes drilled where the current premade holes are. Just place one scale on exactly where you want it. Attach it with double stick carpet tape from Lowes, white stuff about 1.5" wide. Drill thru the existing handle hole just a 1/4 or so the thickness of the MOP.
Remove carefully (Slowly or it will break) and repeat on the other side.
Then glue the slabs on using light clamp pressure and being certain they are exactly where you want them!
Try a few dry runs FIRST as they WILL slide when glued.
The K&G epoxy is a creamy white that is perfect for MOP and super strong. The shallow holes in the MOP will act as pins that are plenty strong, even for a user. Be CERTAIN to watch and catch any glue that squishes out for the first half hr and go back and check it periodically after that.
Clamp at least 12-14hrs and 24hrs to fully cure.
 
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