Mora 2K

Usually with a DMT blue then red. Sometimes I'll go up to a Spyderco fine ceramic.
 
Sure do, at least on the ones I've seen. A Mora is purely flat ground with no secondary bevel, so unless you're holding the stone flat to the blade (or introducing a secondary bevel), you're reprofiling.
 
I've been holding it flat. As long as you have the patience, it's the easiest way to go.
 
I've got the diamond rods for the sharpmaker. Just use the 40 degree angle and reprofile?
 
Hey Guys..
Hillbilly..

Great knife..
your going to like it !!

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
If you all are holding the blade flat to the stone to keep the original bevel, is the blade all scratched up? Could I possibly get a pic of one of your Moras?
 
Hey Guys..

I'm wondering why you aren't sharpening the way you would sharpen any other convex edge ??

High grit wet dry paper with a mouse pad ??

Are you changing the grind on it for a reason ???

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
I'm just curious as to why someone would want to put a 40 degree bevel on a Mora. Kind of ruins their best aspect, the acute edge that slices very well. If a stock Mora edge can take batoning, you must be doing some pretty heavy work to desire that kind of edge.
 
Normark said:
Hey Guys..

I'm wondering why you aren't sharpening the way you would sharpen any other convex edge ??

High grit wet dry paper with a mouse pad ??

Are you changing the grind on it for a reason ???

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
Click to expand...

Never seen a convex Mora... The ones I've worked on are all flat ground.:confused:
 
Hey S&S..

Thanks for the reply..

Hmmmm...

Is the edge not what some people would call convex?
Or is it a straight flat grind right to the edge ??

Sorry,, a little confused about that...

I've always considered the very edge to be convex ground..

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
It's a flat scandi grind right to the edge, but I convex mine anyway for a stronger edge. Otherwise the edge is only about 20 degrees inclusive.
 
As the original edge wears back and you sharpen it as if it were convex, the very edge will become convex. It wouldn't take much.
 
Esav Benyamin said:
As the original edge wears back and you sharpen it as if it were convex, the very edge will become convex. It wouldn't take much.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I do. I hold the original scani edge flat on a piece of sandpaper on top of a wood board (no mousepad). The sandpaper curls up very slightly as you draw the knife over it with edge trailing strokes. It's enough to give it a slight convex. As you sharpen you are also still honing the entire scani grind, so even long term the grind should not become too much thicker overall, unlike using a flat stone or sharpmaker to create a second bevel.
 
I want to thank everybody who gave some input. I'm not nesscessarily wanting to use my sharpmaker. I guess I just want to know the easiest/best way of maintaining the unique edge.

KeithAM, what grit paper do you use and do you hold the entire knife flat on the sandpaper?
 
Which grit I use depends on how dull the edge is. If an edge is really damaged, I'll go as low as 220. Terribly dull I might use 320. If it's plain old dull, I'll go with 600. For touch-ups I'll use 1500 or just strop. You'll get a feel for where to start after a while.

I hold the primary (and only) bevel -- the 10 or so degree scandi grind -- flat on the paper.

As someone recently noted in another thread, this method will raise a burr. After you've raised a burr on both sides, flip the knife over and give it 1 or 2 very light strokes to remove the burr. Do this every time you change grits.
 
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