mora 510 or #1?

Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
256
Which in general do you prefer?

I know they aren't exactly known for durability, but for those of you who have both, have you noticed a difference between the durability of the two?

Do they have the same tang, just with a different handle? Anyone had any failures when batoning or something?
 
I like the 510, I can send you one to try out if you like.

thanks riley, but i just ordered both, their on the way already ;) I figure whichever i don't like as much I'll throw in the tool-bag.

Spooky, Ben'sBackwoods said that the wooden handled moras have full tangs. I just figured this might make it tougher than the 510? but i have no idea.

edit: nevermind i just realized it was the Frosts wooden handled moras which have full tangs. I got the KJ Erickson, so I'm guessing it has the same tang as the 510.
 
I've had an old wood handled laminated model that has been used hard. No problems so far. You can see the end of the tang and lock nut on the rear of the handle. Its a strong unit.
 
Are there any mora's with a full tang that you all know of?

Sorry if this is a thread hyjack...

TF

Not true full tangs, but full length stick tangs. With the plastic handled models the KJ Erikson's typically have longer hidden tangs than the Frost's.
 
Not true full tangs, but full length stick tangs.
I was going to add that. The wooden models have full-length tangs, but they aren't exposed full-width tangs.

I would think the wooden handle models are more durable. Not only are the tangs longer and stronger, but the wood handles should be less likely to come off. Someone posted x-rays of some plastic handle models a few years ago - many of the plastic models don't have much of a tang at all, but some were better than others.
 
My vote is for the #510. I have a #510 and an S-1 (Laminated #1).

Let's face it. Neither of these knives are prybars. The #1 has a rattail tang and the #510 has a much shorter tang that is almost as wide as the blade. As the #510 handle is molded around the tang, it's not going to have tang failure without handle failure. Considering the strength of the two tangs outside any grip, the much wider #510 tang is going to be stronger IMO than the thin rattail of the #1.

... but the fact is, both attachment methods are plenty strong compared to the strength of that very thin stock blade. The relative strengths of the two attachment methods are both substantially higher than the strength of the blade itself, so it's really irrelevant which one is stronger.

I like the #510 just because it has a more comfortable and more secure handle. The fact that there are no gaps for gunk to get into and cause problems for food prep is also a factor. The #1 is still a great knife though. My S1 is definitely much prettier than my #510.
 
Well, I'm getting all 3, the 510, Erickson #1, and the Frosts S-1, and i'll try and test em out.
 
I should also mention that the #510 comes with a very serviceable sheath that works well for neck carry. The #1 and S1 come with incredibly crappy sheaths.
 
Yep, the 510, my preference, locks in place when inserted in the sheath. The S1 can easily fall out of the sheath and nip you while you're handling it (voice of experience). I like the comfort and security of the 510 handle. There's actually a quasi-guard molded into the grip.
 
I prefer the #1 just because of the red wood grip. I would disagree with your comment that
I know they aren't exactly known for durability

I feel quite the opposite about all Mora knives.
 
I've got both and prefer the 510. The grip is more secure when wet. Both great knives though.
 
bagashite23wy1.jpg
 
I see I was confusing the tangs of the #510 and the #780. The #510 tang might as well be the same as the #1 tang, which is a little longer and a little thinner. Only difference is the #510 tang doesn't poke out the end.
 
I've aboused all of the above except the 2000 and have yet to break one even when batoning...I'm just a little more selective and cautious when doing so.
 
I trust all my Moras, an S-1, #510, and #710mg, more for batoning than my Cold Steel Recon Tanto which is a much larger knife. Unfortunately it has the same design flaw that lead to the much publicized Trailmaster failures, where the blade snaps off neatly at the tang.

I would be much more willing to trust the Recon Tanto as a prybar or digging tool, but Moras just aren't meant for that.
 
I like the #510 for the handle ergonomics, it is comfortable with a very positive grip. The SL-1 ( and S-1) is a much slimmer package and can be easily carried in a pocket, in a plastic sheath of course. Although the wooden handles are not as easy to grip, they can be used in a variety of positions more comfortably than the larger plastic handles.
 
Back
Top