Mora and Frost knives

BillL said:
I just went for a holiday trip and left my Victorinox Safari in one of the hotels. I'm now looking to bring cheaper knives for my trips.
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There's no need to stop carrying a Victorinox. Just make yourself a nice lanyard that attaches your SAK to your belt loop. I doubt that you'll leave the hotel without your pants. :D
 
BillL said:
I just went for a holiday trip and left my Victorinox Safari in one of the hotels. I'm now looking to bring cheaper knives for my trips. Are there any differences between Mora knives and Frosts knives? I'm also looking into some Opinels, how do I know which are the carbon steels and which are the stainless? Some of the sites say that "Safety Ring not included" - is this the ring that screws round to lock the knife?

Thanks very much for your input.
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There is two seperate Frosts in the knife world.

There is Frosts, a Swedish cutlery company. They manufacture moras, and like Errickson (sp?) are a high quality, mass production, low cost manufacturer of a relatively utilitarian
yet functional. Generally, the blades will be marked "High Carbon" on carbon models and stainless on the stainless models.

Then there is Frosts Cutlery. No association with the Swedish Company. This is the brand behind the Chinese and Pakistani knives that are usually of dubious quality that appear at flea markets and other venues. While some of the knives are very functional and are good values for the money, by and large they are very dubious quality and an individual knife really needs to be examined before purchase to dsetermine which it is. It's generally considered best to avoid these amalegamations like the plague.

Opinels are high quality knives. Some of the smaller models don't have brevette lock. Some do. I prefer the larger models (6,7,8) with the brevette (ring) lock .It is very positive.

The Stainless opinels are marked "Inox". The carbon models have Au Carbone on the handle, and the hand/crown hallmark on the blade.
 
Can we use the Sharpmaker to sharpen Moras?

I heard that Opinels are convexed, is this true?

Thanks
 
BillL said:
Can we use the Sharpmaker to sharpen Moras?
Thanks
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yes.

convex:

even if they are convex from the factory it doesnt mean you cant put another edge on them later imo. try it out. if you dont like it just use the mousepad-method to get them convex again.
 
TAH said:
There's no need to stop carrying a Victorinox. Just make yourself a nice lanyard that attaches your SAK to your belt loop. I doubt that you'll leave the hotel without your pants. :D
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I slept with it under my pillow and forgot to take it in the morning, if I had left it in my pants I would still have it.:o
 
I would like to add, for that sake of backing up the guy that said the tips break easily, that I had a rubber handled Eriksson model in Sandvik 12C27M, and I took it out and stuck it into a piece of wood a few times, and the tip was gone. I attribute it to how thin the Moras are at the tip. I simply overestimated the design in some aspects.

These knives are excellent slicers and cut like crazy, but they are not the "Pay 15 bucks and get all you ever needed in a knife" that people make them out to be.
 
I just acquired two Moras and I must say I'm very impressed.
2Moras.jpg

I don't believe there's a better value for the money out there. The ergonomics and performance of this particular knife is commendable. Out of the box, the carbon steel version is much sharper. Unless you're planning on salt water work or sweating profusely on your knife in the wilderness, Go Carbon Steel!. Opinel carbon steel knifes are very very similar in behavior and edge characteristics, Locking ring?what's that? Never used one as the regular ring is good enough for all that I do with it.
 
BillL said:
Can we use the Sharpmaker to sharpen Moras?

I heard that Opinels are convexed, is this true?

Thanks
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I don't have a Sharpmaker, but as I sharpened mine so easily using a couple of pieces of sandpaper on a firm surface you might find it quicker not to bother. . . presuming that you don't mind putting a few scratches onto the blade (we're not talking about collectors knives here). I'm going to stick with the sandpaper method so I can always sharpen it if I'm on the road.

I apologise if I sound like it's my first knife, but it was my first time sharpening a Scandi grind and it was so intuitive that I began to wonder why more makers don't produce user knives in this format.

I understand that Opinels are slightly convexed, but it makes little difference as you will need to sharpen it yourself right away (I once read an estimate that 1:7 were particularly sharp out of the box, which seems like a fair ratio in this price range). Opinels sharpen particularly easily, although personally I can only get mine adequately sharp on a mouse pad, as has been recommended by another poster. . . for scary sharp I need to use the Lansky. Others may differ, because I'm new at the whole mousemat thing, but I'm only at the point where I can get scary sharp on a thicker blade. I'm assuming a Sharpmaker would create a knife that cut like a laser.

And has been posted above, these are not the best knives money can buy. . . perhaps the best knives $15 can buy. You will need to fix them up before you use them, and a lot of people don't like to have to work on something when it's straight out of the box. There are flaws to both knives.

And yes, I do feel that the Mora has a thin point. I haven't tested it out yet, other than to say that with the ease it sunk into my finger (it was sharper than I thought, when new) it will be a good point for piercing soft objects (doh!). I always cut myself on a new blade!
 
BillL,

A Sharpmaker will work very quickly on a Scandi-ground knife. You can either use the 30 degree setting for a microbevel or place the hones in the chisel-sharpening slot on the bottom of the base and sharpen flat to the stone. The microbevel is quicker, of course.
 
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