Mora black or Gerber Strongarm!

Moondrop · May 4, 2016

Changed my mind since I can already see how this would progress. Sorry 'bout that.

pinnah · May 4, 2016

Knifeforone said:
Animal processing..Hunting wood work...

For meat and game, I have a slight (very slight) preference for hollow ground blades. Thinner behind the edge is a win and the material self-separates so there's not binding like you get with potatoes.

For wood work, I strongly (as in not even close) prefer a thicker convexed blade (like a convexed Mora). Thicker behind the edge allows for better angle control and better curls. The more splitting I need to do, the thicker I like the blade to a point. A Mora Companion HD is about as thick as I need for any splitting I'm going to do with a knife.

basically for SHTF..Knife..

Well... SHTF is an entirely different game. IMO, the best knives for dealing with post-apocalyptic fantasy role playing are those that your buddies think look bad-ass. I recommend inviting friends over for a Mad Max or Walking Dead marathon and showing them the different knives and going with the first one that gets a "Man, that is so bad-ass" comment.

Alternatively, you can start another threat here in the General forum with SHTF in the subject line and you'll get about the same sort of input, only with more options than you think of.

Somewhat seriously... I would think more about which grind you want and why? If you aren't sure about grinds, I would recommend getting a few very inexpensive knives (with decent steel) and using the snot out of them so you can figure out your own prefer on grinds. The Mora Companion will give you a Scandi grind. 30 minutes of work with a course stone will convert it to a convex grind. The Bucklite Max is a very good hollow ground hunting knife for short money. Somebody can suggest a good $25 full flat ground fixed blade (not my cup of tea).

Knifeforone · May 4, 2016

Yeah I THINK I'm leaning towards the Gerber..This in my opinion is the best knife they have put out in awhile. I WILL GET the Mora Black next. I all ready own 7 moras..Thanks all for the insite..

Tenbeers · May 4, 2016

Yeah I THINK I'm leaning towards the Gerber..This in my opinion is the best knife they have put out in awhile. I WILL GET the Mora Black next. I all ready own 7 moras..Thanks all for the insite..

If you already own a Mora you've got the fine cutting taken care of. The Strongarm will give you a bruiser for the heavy lifting. A great do-it-all knife. As mentioned by others, check out the reviews on Youtube. It is put through some heavy duty tasks and survives it all.
In my opinion the Strongarm is one of the best bang for the buck pieces out there right now.

Yo Mama · May 5, 2016

Moondrop said:
Have you looked up the Garberg? Its main selling point is being a full tang knife. Thinner than the Strongarm, yes, but thicker than the average Mora with a stick or partial tang.

For the price of the Garberg, you can buy 8 clippers!

I've beat on more than a few Clippers, they can take alot, I mean A LOT! I just don't see the justification in the price jump, especially because there are plenty of other offerings that are strong proven designs at or below what the Garberg will be selling for. Plus anything that dave Canterbury is pushing I'll stay away from.

Larcivs Lepidvs · May 5, 2016

get a Mora Robust or a Companion Heavy Duty. or both

Inazone · May 5, 2016

I have a few different Mora models, as well as an older Gerber Prodigy and LMF2. I've also handled a Strongarm. If you don't have something along the lines of a Strongarm already, it would be a good choice for filling the need for an inexpensive, stainless fixed blade capable of a pretty wide range of tasks. It's not likely to be the best knife ever for any one task, but covers a lot of ground. The same would be true of numerous other similar knives, but few would be US-made with a proven steel and heat treat. Nothing flashy, of course, but neither is a Mora . . . which you already have.

Knifeforone · May 5, 2016

Ok all thank you for insite and info..I just ordered the Gerber Strongarm none serrated of course. Should serve me well.

afishhunter · May 5, 2016

knife117 said:
Anything not Gerber

I'll second this.

average gimp · May 6, 2016

tantrik77 said:
Please explain to me how a knife that is not even available yet is "known quality," while a knife that has been tested, used, and abused by the thousands all over the world is "dubious quality?" The Strongarm is a much stronger and more robust blade than ANY Mora. It is also one of the highest quality blades Gerber has produced in a while. It is made entirely in their Oregon plant out of materials from the USA with an excellent heat treat on the 420HC blade. You should look at the Gauntlet reviews and testing of the Strongarm before doubting its quality.

I've got exactly one worthwhile Gerber knife--an LST I've had for close to 30 years. Even in the days of the first Ez-Outs, to say nothing of various of their multitools I've owned and gotten rid of, I don't trust Gerber. Even the LST I bought to replace the one I thought I had lost, while it has a decent blade, it has a crappy action that I can't improve. Meanwhile, I have several Moras which have all performed impeccably, and well outside their price point. And that excludes what I've heard about Moras from those I respect.

tantrik77 said:
The Strongarm is available without serrations. That was one of its major selling points versus the older Prodigy.

AFAICS that's it's only selling point. I don't care what Gerber does from here on out--like CRKT, they've got nothing I want or would ever recommend to anyone.

SALTY · May 7, 2016

Larcivs Lepidvs said:
get a Mora Robust or a Companion Heavy Duty. or both

I own a Mora Companion Heavy Duty and am familiar with the Robust - both are excellent choices for game. Moving up to heavier uses while maintaining a handy size along with slicing and game processing ability are the Becker BK15 and the BK-16 in full flat grind, especially if you strip the coating off it. I mention these "Tweener" sized Beckers after I searched the price point of the other knives initially mentioned in this thread.

For what it's worth, my Mora and Beckers are my most often grabbed fixed blades.

hunter55 · May 11, 2016

The owner / user of a Mora has to know the limitations of these knives. Even the Companion Heavy Duty of the Black Bushcraft (with 32mm blade thickness = .125) are not designed for heavy duty wood work.
Today I have lost the tip of my Mora Black Bushcraft
I have battoned a branch and then I tried to pry a little the wood (pine-tree). The result is that the blade of my knife is 1-2 millimeters less in length.
I have not anticipated such a problem with my Gerber Strongarm
I want from my knives the ability to handle the digging, prying, gouging, and splitting (amongst others)
These demands (owners demands of his knife) are being very precisely described by Mistwalker in one of his excellent (as usual) knife reviews (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/905813-Overlander-by-TOPS-Knives).
And with Moras I have to do compromises

Yo Mama · May 13, 2016

hunter55 said:
The owner / user of a Mora has to know the limitations of these knives. Even the Companion Heavy Duty of the Black Bushcraft (with 32mm blade thickness = .125) are not designed for heavy duty wood work.
Today I have lost the tip of my Mora Black Bushcraft
I have battoned a branch and then I tried to pry a little the wood (pine-tree). The result is that the blade of my knife is 1-2 millimeters less in length.
I have not anticipated such a problem with my Gerber Strongarm
I want from my knives the ability to handle the digging, prying, gouging, and splitting (amongst others)
These demands (owners demands of his knife) are being very precisely described by Mistwalker in one of his excellent (as usual) knife reviews (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/905813-Overlander-by-TOPS-Knives).
And with Moras I have to do compromises

Looks like you need an axe or saw. A knife cuts. No suprise to me with what u did to it that you would lose a tip.

You may want to look at Busse.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

hunter55 · May 13, 2016

I repeat that I have not any problem with Gerber Strongarm....
And I have to add now that I have not such problem using BK-16, or Fallknivens, or ESEEs, or RATs, or Lionsteel, or DPXs... (to mention a few of reliable AND able to do a lot of works blades).
And these blades are not in Busse class...
My purpose was just to underline the importance of understanding the limitations of some blades.