Mora bushcraft force, triflex, or outdoor knife?

shootist16

shootist16

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I have a Mora2000 and love it. I'm looking to get another Mora. What are the pros and cons of the Bushcraft Force and triflex? Which would be a "better" woods knife?
 
Triflex is a blade steel, not a model.
You should clarify what models you mean, exactly.
The new bushcraft Moras can be had in swedish stainless and triflex.
I only see a slight ergonomic difference in those knives.
the 700 series of Mora is discontinued and the Bushcrafters seem to take the place.
 
Gambrinus said:
Triflex is a blade steel, not a model.
You should clarify what models you mean, exactly.
The new bushcraft Moras can be had in swedish stainless and triflex.
I only see a slight ergonomic difference in those knives.
the 700 series of Mora is discontinued and the Bushcrafters seem to take the place.
Click to expand...

Not exactly, there is a new model in the bushcraft line called the " Triflex"
And if I am correct (which I believe I am ) its the only NEW model with triflex steel.

For the OP,
I have all the above listed models, and I prefer the Triflex, the blade is not as wide, and lends itself better to carving.
I also LOVE the HighQ, its like a modernized Mora 510. Carbon steel, and comphy as heck.

All Around, MIKI, Triflex, Force and 2010...
picture.php
 
a note about the bushcrat triflex.. it that it has the shortest tang of the new models .. while the force, has the same sturdy thick tang as the 2000
uppsgadeknivar.jpg


The top one is the bushcraft triflex
 
gunknifenut said:
I have all the above listed models, and I prefer the Triflex, the blade is not as wide, and lends itself better to carving.
I also LOVE the HighQ, its like a modernized Mora 510. Carbon steel, and comphy as heck.
Click to expand...

I recently received my Bushcraft Triflex, HighQ Allround Stainless & HighQ Allround Carbon - definitely great knives, especially for the money. I paid $20, $11 & $10 from Ragnar.

I agree about the HighQ - comfy and $10 that's a hell of a good deal. A magnet test shows that the tang runs around 3/4 the length of the handle too.

RescueRiley said:
a note about the bushcrat triflex.. it that it has the shortest tang of the new models
Click to expand...

I don't know why they don't do all the knifes with the tang going 2/3 to 3/4 of they handle. I certainly wont chop or baton with my Bushcraft Triflex but it should still be a good knife and last well. It does have a nice comfy handle and a good (for a Mora) sheath. My magnet test confirms your grinder test (but with less damage to my Mora). So it seems that the Bushcraft Force & Bushcraft Triflex are not quite identical (apart from the steel) and that could influence the decision - with the longer tang and slightly wider blade the Bushcraft Force is probably a good choice, especially if you want the easy care of stainless.

If you are ordering from Ragnar then grab a HighQ Allround for the jobs that are easier with a smaller blade. At $10 for the carbon or $11 for the stainless model and Ragnar charging a flat $6 for shipping then why not grab a couple of extra Mora knives!
 
I love the new Bushcraft Triflex Model. It does some good work, and I have batoned it and twist cut and it is still going strong. Best $20 knife out there, IMHO. Moose
 
RescueRiley said:
a note about the bushcrat triflex.. it that it has the shortest tang of the new models .. while the force, has the same sturdy thick tang as the 2000
uppsgadeknivar.jpg


The top one is the bushcraft triflex
Click to expand...

Riley, where did you get that pic?!
 
get them all, at $10 each you can't go too wrong. My Mora, which is now looking more like a stiletto sees more use than any other knife.
 
I seem to remember RescueRiley saying he got the tang pic from Mora of Sweden them self. (Not 100% sure about it though)
 
Nonetheless, I am grateful I was finally able to see the tang lengths for these new Moras.

Thank you RescueRiley!
 
Great--just got my second Triflex. :(

When a Mora fails because of a shorter tang, where, how, and under what conditions does it fail? :confused:
 
KeithAM said:
Great--just got my second Triflex. :(

When a Mora fails because of a shorter tang, where, how, and under what conditions does it fail? :confused:
Click to expand...

When you are not using it as a knife, that's about it…(remember that traditional “Samurai swords” were partial stick-tang as well – and held fast with bamboo pins)

If you're not prying with it, don't worry. *Maybe* batonning with a shorter tanged knife should be avoided, but many here have been doing it for a while without incident. I think this is a non-issue with blades as thin as these as one is not likely to put the lateral and/or twisting force on them that might make a "sharpened pry-bar-ubber-tactical-type-knife" fail at the handle. These thin blades generally glide through material and they don't encourage users to pound them through concrete blocks with sledgehammers...

Again, I wouldn't worry. My guess is the most significant factor might be the overall balance of the knives...then again, the Triflex blades are slightly less "tall" (less forward weight) so my guess is that this too may be not much of an issue (they should balance about the same -- with perhaps the "Force" blades being more "neutral" and the Triflex being more blade-heavy). This is just conjecture on my part since I don't own both and therefore can't directly compare them.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the answer. I don't pound on or pry with Moras anyway.

I'm still wondering how the shorter tang would cause failure, and where it would break. If the blade breaks at the blade/handle juncture, for example, I'm wondering how that would be attributable to the shorter tang. :confused:
 
My guess is that the shorter tang could make the handle less rigid and more prone to flexing. My guess is that because the plastic handles on these seem not particularly brittle, one would be able to see small cracks around the handle-blade junction and the blade begin to loosen long before a catastrophic break (again, unless it's being used to pry open a door or "tree step" – then, my guess is that the blade would fail before the handle-blade juncture). I have had some of my older Frosts & Moras out in sub-zero temps (-10 F or so) -- lying on the ice -- and still used them to chip open frozen-over ice fishing holes, clean fish, prep bait, and split small kindling. As far as I can tell, none show any signs of loosening up/breaking...
 
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