Mora bushcraft force, triflex, or outdoor knife?

I recently received my Bushcraft Triflex, HighQ Allround Stainless & HighQ Allround Carbon - definitely great knives, especially for the money. I paid $20, $11 & $10 from Ragnar.

I certainly wont chop or baton with my Bushcraft Triflex but it should still be a good knife and last well.

SINCE WHEN DOES THE TANG LENGTH DIFFERENCE OF THESE KNIVES MATTER WHEN BATONING????????? Are you folks hitting the spine or the handle? Hit the spine, and blade goes through. Done.

BTW, with the blades encased in the plastic, my guess is that the tang strength would be about equal. Wood would be different, but the plastic fully engulfs the tang so securely, and all of the tangs are more than decent length, my guess is that all of them would stand up to the same use. ABUSE, on the other hand......
 
Shorter tang will create flexing in some handle materials. Which could lead to gaps forming around the tang it self and handle thus allowing the blade to not be secure.

RescueRiley What is the 2nd to last knife with the fullest tang?
BTW Where do you all order your moras from?
 
@ jimh0220:

Think of it this way. Take a stick (any stick) and crack it in the middle (don't break it through). This will be your "weak tang knife stand-in." Now, grab it from one end and place the other over something that will simulate the piece of wood you will "baton" through. Now, hit the far end (furthest away from you) with another stick - just tap it as you would if you were actually batonning. The flex at the bend that you will see in your "knife/stick" shows where the stress is when batonning.
 
Shorter tang will create flexing in some handle materials. Which could lead to gaps forming around the tang it self and handle thus allowing the blade to not be secure.

RescueRiley What is the 2nd to last knife with the fullest tang?
BTW Where do you all order your moras from?

@ jimh0220:

Think of it this way. Take a stick (any stick) and crack it in the middle (don't break it through). This will be your "weak tang knife stand-in." Now, grab it from one end and place the other over something that will simulate the piece of wood you will "baton" through. Now, hit the far end (furthest away from you) with another stick - just tap it as you would if you were actually batonning. The flex at the bend that you will see in your "knife/stick" shows where the stress is when batonning.

If you are hitting the spine of the knife, you can move the blade through the wood with minimal stress on the handle; minimal enought that any of the plastic (polycarb?) handles can handle:D. I have done it with a 2 Mora Clippers, both with the same tang, and never even felt an ounce of movement or stress on the handle. Maybe I don't overdo it enough?
 
Actually -- I agree with you fully. This shouldn't hurt a Mora. I have seen a number of stick-tang knives with wood and antler handles develop cracks when used to baton (yes, I even remember someone doing this with a crown stag-handled BRKT Boone. I think he emailed the pics - maybe I can still find them).
 
I'm still wondering how the shorter tang would cause failure, and where it would break. If the blade breaks at the blade/handle juncture, for example, I'm wondering how that would be attributable to the shorter tang. :confused:
For the Mora Clipper and those with similar tangs, no guessing is necessary - there are a few videos out there demonstrating where failure occurs and under what level of abuse - namely the plastic handle comes apart/loses hold of the tang, or the blade snaps at the point of greatest lateral stress.

Applying force to the blade or end of the handle will cause the knife to pivot against the material if it does not (is not able) to simply slice through it (e.g. very hard wood, concrete, hard metal, not things usually accosted with a Mora). Because the tang does not extend very far into the handle, it is poor technique (although without knowledge of the tang-length, the user is excused) to apply excessive pressure on the lower unsupported portion of the handle rather than near the ricasso-area, and this results in the metal stressing the handle until it forces its way out of set. One can also force the blade out of set by hammering the pommel while keeping the blade steady (stabbed into a log, etc.) - the plastic is strong and holds the blade secure, but it's not that strong :p This is the only downside to a shorter tang that I can see...

This series of videos truly glorifies the amount of abuse one can subect a mora of even the shortest tang to.:cool: For a thin little knife, that's pretty impressive.:thumbup:

Here is a video of a mora blade being bent until it snaps (nowhere near the handle).

And finally, a video with a Hultafors (not Mora, but similar), showing the level of effort required to force the blade out of set into/out of the handle.
 
The Triflex is less expensive and the treatment on the steel is designed to help the blade withstand impacts like batonning. I tried mine out this weekend and it worked well with no perceived shock at the handle.
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