Mora Knife

I had one Mora 510 carbon steel blade with broken handle. So I decided to make new handle for this knife. I choosed birch wood for handle, stained it and finally waxed it. Bolster is made from aluminium and fixed with two 60mm brass nails. Blade length is 90mm, handle is 105mm, overall length is 195mm.

Some pics:
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Blade "cover" is made of leather:
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Aluminium bolster is fixed with two 60mm nails:
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i'm split down the middle on which mora companion to choose. stainless steel or carbon. if you're using it around the yard and maybe out in the woods, wouldn't it be better to get the stainless?
 
Im not complaining. I kinda figured it was about fire starting but i wasnt sure.
This is a really neat little knife. I see many more Mora's being added to my collection.

Actually I find it harder to get a spark with back of the factory blade, and I've read the same elsewhere. Once I ground it down, the spark started to fly... so I'm not sure I buy the idea that Mora purposely has a crummy spine. I think it's just to save money.
 
I am new to Mora's as well, my Mora Companion HD/Carbon came with a "finished" spine. It also came pretty dull, so I put it on the Sharpmaker at 40* and now it slices like a laser. I am still learning about scandi grinds and I guess I gave it a "microbevel" by doing so. I have been reading posts about sharpening these, and have not figured out if this was the wrong thing to do with this grind, maybe somebody can chime in about it.

I love scandi grind for bushcraft type chores... it just sinks into the wood. It's also easier to field sharpen - just lay the entire bevel against the stone. With a microbevel it can be pretty difficult to maintain the correct angle, especially on a small pocket stone.

It's one of the main reasons I want an Enzo birk and a Helle scandi folder. Amazing bushcraft knives.
 
The spine is intentional. Its meant to be that way so you can run a firestarter rod across it. My Mora Companion came that way too. I think most models do.

That's not the reason. Mora knives are stamped from sheet steel, which gives it that rough appearance. The spine is left in that state because grinding it flat would be an additional step that would only add to the cost of the knife. Since most people don't use the spine area on knives, it can be ignored as merely cosmetic.

If you really want your Mora to spark better, flatten the spine yourself with a sheet of 320 or 400 grit sanding paper. Lay the sandpaper on a very flat surface (glass, sheetmetal, marble) and drag the spine across it towards yourself. You will discover that the sharp corners of the spine will throw better sparks than a rough one.

Interestingly, the Mora "Light My Fire" which comes with a built in fire starter (built into the handle) also comes with a smooth spine and fairly sharp spine edges. Looks like Mora agrees with CWL. ;)
 
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