- Joined
- Jan 28, 2017
- Messages
- 56
Razor sharp. 25.00 bucks.
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Mora knives
- Thread starter jasonfoster48
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2017
- Messages
- 56
I was just wondering about the carbon steel blade. Is the carbon steel easier to nick or chip? On close inspection I can see a very small section of blade edge that is a little, and I mean little, rough. I worked it down with a leather strap so it's a lot smoother. I run the blade across an old folded tee-shirt to see how it slices. Toward the tip I can feel a slight roughness to the blade for a tiny bit. It still slices like a dream. Just wondering.
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- Joined
- Jan 28, 2017
- Messages
- 56
The roughness, if that's the best way to describe it, is very, very small. When slicing paper, the blade runs smoothly all the way right before the tip then I can feel a very slight restince. And I mean very slight. Not as smooth but still slices nicely. I was just wondering how prone to nicks and chiping the blade is. I know to keep it clean and oiled. I don't plan on abusing it, but use it for cutting string and opening boxes and craving into soft wood.
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No but be careful with the strop. This is Scandi grind. No secondary bevel.
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2003
- Messages
- 1,592
+1 on the Mora - Amazing quality for the price.
Regarding chips and folds...
The so-called pure Scandi grind on the Mora is like a clean sheet of paper. It's not something set in stone and you can do what you want it it.
I have a buddy who is a master carpenter and very into old-time wood working events. He likes a zero-edge (no micro-bevel) pure scandi on his wood working knives as he says it behaves like a plane. He has better control of his knife than I do and I find pure scandi grinds tend to "dive" into the wood on me. He never batons with his knife because he has dedicated froes nearby. I do when I'm in the woods, because I don't pack an extra froe in my pack.
Full zero-edge (no micro-bevel) scandi grinds like a factory fresh Mora have a reputation for chip out and folding. This has more to do with the edge angle at the apex than anything else. I always convex my Moras as I prefer the way the handle and make curls (I'm not a pro woodworker) and I find they are more durable.
If your Mora picks up a nick or the edge folds, you won't be the first. Either sharpen it out using the same factory angle or add a convexed micro-bevel. It's your knife. You get to pick the edge on it.
The so-called pure Scandi grind on the Mora is like a clean sheet of paper. It's not something set in stone and you can do what you want it it.
I have a buddy who is a master carpenter and very into old-time wood working events. He likes a zero-edge (no micro-bevel) pure scandi on his wood working knives as he says it behaves like a plane. He has better control of his knife than I do and I find pure scandi grinds tend to "dive" into the wood on me. He never batons with his knife because he has dedicated froes nearby. I do when I'm in the woods, because I don't pack an extra froe in my pack.
Full zero-edge (no micro-bevel) scandi grinds like a factory fresh Mora have a reputation for chip out and folding. This has more to do with the edge angle at the apex than anything else. I always convex my Moras as I prefer the way the handle and make curls (I'm not a pro woodworker) and I find they are more durable.
If your Mora picks up a nick or the edge folds, you won't be the first. Either sharpen it out using the same factory angle or add a convexed micro-bevel. It's your knife. You get to pick the edge on it.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2017
- Messages
- 10
LOVE my Mora companion. I even have the same color scheme as you. I got a few of the standard ones (not HD) for 12 a piece. I always have my Mora and a Schrade in my pack. I use the Mora for most everything but occasionally bust out the Schrade for some heavier duty tasks. I folded the edge relatively quickly on my first one while being a little aggressive with feather sticks but I was quickly able to learn the dos and don'ts with it. I even keep one in the kitchen.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2015
- Messages
- 1,697
I need to pick one of these up.
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2000
- Messages
- 1,363
This^
Out of the wood shop in the woods then a Terava Puukko 110 or 140 are a better tool.
Are the Terava Puukkos convexed already? Or just use a steeper angle?
A higher grind, I think they're 23 degrees per side. Some of them have come with a tiny tiny microbevel in addition to the main grind.
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2000
- Messages
- 1,363
As above, just a stouter build generally. Great handle and very good at battening to boot. Your saw and axe gets big wood smaller. A Terava field knife smaller to very small. A Mora to carve or cut something pretty. Well thats how I classify them.
An "in the woods knife" needs to be a little more robust to a fine shed tool. Just like there are forestry tool, carpentry tools and cabinet making tools.
A true Skandi grind requires the whole grind flat on a stone. To keep them correct a lot of metal gets removed over the whole flat. Best done with a large stone. They are splendid but difficult to keep true. Most mere mortals can live with a micro bevel. Most craftsmen match their edges to how they work. Moras are cheap enough to convert to whatever works for the job; almost disposable if necessary.
An "in the woods knife" needs to be a little more robust to a fine shed tool. Just like there are forestry tool, carpentry tools and cabinet making tools.
A true Skandi grind requires the whole grind flat on a stone. To keep them correct a lot of metal gets removed over the whole flat. Best done with a large stone. They are splendid but difficult to keep true. Most mere mortals can live with a micro bevel. Most craftsmen match their edges to how they work. Moras are cheap enough to convert to whatever works for the job; almost disposable if necessary.
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Do it! Amazing, HD carbon steel or not. Nice colours. Good ergo. Good price.
I've gotten lots of good use out of my Moras. I am not hard on them, but I don't treat them gently at all either. I haven't ever tried chopping (I mean, who wants to chop with a 4in knife?), I've batoned "small things smaller", but most of my use with it is just carving. I've had no problems with edges folding/chipping, for what its worth.
I tend to sharpen them on wet dry sandpaper on something flat, and I do just lay the whole bevel down, and go to down on it. In fact, thats one of the main benefits of the scandi grind for me, is how easy it is for me (and especially for people new to sharpening) to get the right edge angle. Most people really struggle to get the final bevel flat on the stone, where that is quite easy with a scandi.
I do agree you can microbevel it if you want, and can also round the shoulders to make it convex, and its still a great value
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I tend to sharpen them on wet dry sandpaper on something flat, and I do just lay the whole bevel down, and go to down on it. In fact, thats one of the main benefits of the scandi grind for me, is how easy it is for me (and especially for people new to sharpening) to get the right edge angle. Most people really struggle to get the final bevel flat on the stone, where that is quite easy with a scandi.
I do agree you can microbevel it if you want, and can also round the shoulders to make it convex, and its still a great value
.- Joined
- Jan 28, 2017
- Messages
- 56
I don't plan on batoning mine. I have a cold steel GI tanto for that. And even then nothing too big. If I need to chop firewood I'll use an ax.
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