Mora Knives

The Mora 2000 is a good bit larger than the others and has some really complex grinds. I got mine from Normark with one of his sheaths for it. You could carry it anywhere in that.

The only thing I really really don't like about the 2000 is the unbelievably cruddy color. I'd rather have a hard handle than the rubber, too, but I could live with that. Puke green don't make it, though.
 
I must confess: My name is Kevin, and I don't own a mora...

The cost is certainly not prohibitive... but I am a fanatic about having quality gear. I understand that you are all in agreement that the mora holds a good edge, but how brittle is the steel?

Nevertheless... I think you guys have convinced me that I should give them a try. Geez... for 10 bucks or so it's gotta be a good value...
 
The Mora is a classic beater. It is NoT brittle. It is thin. It is for cutting. But you won't shatter the edge doing anything normal with it.
 
I've got several KJ Erikson Moras and a couple of the Frosts. It seems to me that the Erikson Moras are a little more solidly built. The knives I have are the Erikson #1, 511, and 911. My children use the 511's. Good safe little knives to learn with. Nothing wrong with them for a small general purpose knife. The 911 is my favorite and the one I've used the most. I've done some light battoning work with it and it has held up fine, but I don't think it could take a steady diet of splitting seasoned oak. My Frosts 840 is assigned to my tool bucket so that I've always got a sharp knife handy when I'm handymanning. My Frosts 760 is in my tackle box and is the only stainless knife of the bunch. I also have a Frosts 761 which is now my garden beater knife. I cracked the handle putting it to a severe battoning test splitting season southern read oak. I was just seeing how much it could take. My eagle scout nephew still rolls his eyes at my abuse of the poor thing. "Just doesn't seem like something you would do, uncle Rob!"
 
My Moras are around, although not used a lot. The 2000 is in my wife's SUV, and my 510 in the jumper cable bag in my car. That way if they get stolen, I'm not out a lot of cash, but I have a good knife when I need it.

Just bought two 840's for when my boys are ready for their first knife. I was going to go with 511's but good luck finding one! Ragnar says maybe in a month or two.
 
I am not gonna read the whole thread, but I am sure this blade has been mentioned. The Mora 511 is great. I got one from a very gracious member here at BF and have been nothing short of impressed with it as a bushcraft blade.
 

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+100 on the #510!!!

ragweedforge.com is a great place to get them too. I just ordered another one, you can't have too many. I've even rehandled 4 others.

Not brittle at all, they are thin though so you won't be doing any prying with one. The edge may need to be sharpened back to good steel though, sometimes the edge will chip if you use the factory edge. I usually use the factory edge untiil it chips then, sharpen them out into good steel.
 
Mora knives are expendables. At least in Scandinavia. They are really great knives for the price (2-5 USD a piece). They are great for whatever you use them for so buy a whole bunch and spread them around. You might not thnik you need a Mora, but with a Mora knife you do things you wouldnt do with a more expensive knife.
If you break your 100 dollar knife you might be sad but if you break a Mora, you just pick up a new one.
 
I already did some prying while splitting wood. I'm still trying to figure out how a Mora can be broken. I don't think I can abuse ANY knife so much that it breaks. It's a mystery to me.
 
Well,I've don some battoning and prying with the M2K yesterday,but it held it just fine.Well,it bended,but I was able to straiten it.Wonderful little knives they are :)
 
Well I ordered a #1, 510, 780 and a 946. No one mentioned a 946 but I wanted to try a stainless blade. Hmmm four blades for less than half the price of a RAT.
 
The cost is certainly not prohibitive... but I am a fanatic about having quality gear. I understand that you are all in agreement that the mora holds a good edge, but how brittle is the steel?

It took me a while to decide to try them, too.

It's weird- the Mora is quality gear, but in a strange way. It's purely functional, it's totally minimalist. It cuts well. That's it. I mean, that's really it. Ex: The handles on mine are well shaped and reasonably strong (so you can use the knife to cut well, of course) but as cheap as can possibly be. There's nothing "nice" about the material, it just does the job.

The steel is good stuff, nothing fancy or expensive (1095 and 12C27) but definitely good.
 
Function over form. These knives may be cheap and cheesy looking. But they work and they work well.
As for batoning with a mora, I have beaten mine though some serious knots without any ill effects to it. Even some Mora haters have to admit. They cut like no other knife.

Pitdog: Let's not get that thread started up again. LOL
 
The Mora 2000 is a good bit larger than the others and has some really complex grinds. I got mine from Normark with one of his sheaths for it. You could carry it anywhere in that.

The only thing I really really don't like about the 2000 is the unbelievably cruddy color. I'd rather have a hard handle than the rubber, too, but I could live with that. Puke green don't make it, though.
Yeah the color is one of the reasons why it took me a long time to buy one.
Great knife though despite the color.
All-over black would be nice, or if it must be two-toned black on the pommel/guard and a gray on the middle.
 
Yeah the color is one of the reasons why it took me a long time to buy one.
Great knife though despite the color.
All-over black would be nice, or if it must be two-toned black on the pommel/guard and a gray on the middle.

Anyone who is familiar with the Mora 2000 and the 780, does the 2000 give you much that you don't get in the 780? (aside from ugliness :D) I understand they are the same thickness and only (iirc) 1/8" different in length. Is that funky grind worth tripling the price?
 
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